letterman7
Honorary Admin
That may be all you need. If it isn't bouncing on the way up and rises at the same rate on both sides, you're good. Good job!
That may be all you need. If it isn't bouncing on the way up and rises at the same rate on both sides, you're good. Good job!
Thanks for the information letterman! I am yanking the carb and the manifold off to replace the gaskets so I may address the heat riser tube then. I have a spare manifold but it's one without the tubes (came from the last engine with dual carbs) so I will figure something out. Right now I was more focused on if that cut tube is a huge leak or just poor backyard mechanics.Bolt in hole: block off plate is fine, may have been a smog pump attached there at one point. Cut-off tube: well, a little more involved. That heater flapper should never be open like that - ever. That needs the corrugated hose from the fan shroud to that opening (and it looks like the opening has been cut as well - should be a tube sticking up from there). The cut-off tube is part of the warm-up sequence for the carburetor - if it's not in place, things get tough to tune. Can you do without it? Yes, but then you have the possibility of the carburetor icing over when it gets humid out, even during the summer. New manifolds are available with the riser tubes that connect to that diamond shaped block-off plate on the heater cores. If you chose not to have heat to the cockpit, you can simplify the exhaust system with a different exhaust setup, but you'll still have the issue with the center mount carburetor. That's why a lot of guys move to dual carbs - more power and closer to the block so heating isn't so much an issue.
Thanks Letterman - I am realizing that the more I read. I pulled all the jets, shot with some carb cleaner and then compressed air this time. I still need to reclean the carbs and I may really try for the sonic cleaner route. I also swapped the distributor for a 009 I had sitting around just to see if it helped to settle the idle down a bit as I didn't have spare vacuum lines for the other one to advance timing correctly.Stock carbs are notorious for plugging jets. If you have a sonic cleaner, or know someone who does, that might be a good next step. VW idle spec is around 750rpm. The pulsing tells me there is still a clog in the idle circuit. Push comes to shove, check with your local VW club for a good clean used unit or buy new (and tear it down and clean it before you install).
Both the the volume and bypass screws turned out 2.5 turns which should let it idle from what I've seen. It does have a choke I have swapped out and adjusted to slightly not fully closed.The "volume" screw should have helped with the enrichment. It's definitely a dance to get it right. Following the steps in the procedure link provided, base-line everything and try again. If it's still running really rich, we'll try something else. Does it have a choke on it?
Electric choke or manual? Even slightly closed, choke butterflies will pull more fuel in than necessary to idle. A choke is only meant to enrichen the initial starting sequence by getting as much fuel to the cylinders as possible in the shortest amount of time. The butterfly should be *vertical* within a minute of starting. If it isn't, you're pulling fuel which would lead to the puddling. The bypass screws are for the choke circuit, IIRC. Did you follow the step-by-step setup or are you winging it at this point? If you don't baseline the carburetor, you're just chasing issues caused by other issues.