VW WEBBER DUAL CARB SET 40 DCNF

[delbertinie]

I may have have found a sets of these carbs.

Are they too big for a stock 1600.
I need some advice about webbers if anyone can help.

 

[letterman7]

My favorite set of carbs. Had a set of 36's on my old 1300 and setting up a pair of 42's for the type 4 lump. 40's will be fine for the 1600.

Go to Amazon and buy this book [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Weber-Carburetors-HP-Books-774/dp/0895863774/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1337779460&sr=1-1]Amazon.com: Weber Carburetors (HP Books 774) (0075478637744): Verlon P. Braden: Books[/ame] and this book [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Weber-Carburettors-Tuning-Tips-Techniques/dp/1855207591/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1337779460&sr=1-2]Amazon.com: Weber Carburettors Tuning Tips and Techniques (Tuning Tips & Techniques) (9781855207592): John Passini: Books[/ame] . Then go here [ame=http://www.piercemanifolds.com/category_s/308.htm]TECH HELP[/ame] and read up on the setup and initial idle, and depending on how worn the carbs are, order a rebuild kit for both of them.

I love DCNF's, though I'm a little biased. I learned on those carbs and they fit perfect under the decklid with the shorty manifolds (you'll need Type 3 manifolds to go with them) and a 1" air filter. Like any other carb, there are far too many variables with tuning to get into here, that's why I'm suggesting to purchase those books and rebuild kits. You'll likely buy a half dozen or more different size jets for both the idle and main circuits just trying to tune it correctly, so budget for those as well.

R

 

[delbertinie]

they were already on a 1600 and have the intakes with them. The only thing I need is linkage.

 

[letterman7]

You'll need the center pull style linkage. That's hard to find nowadays; you'll need to call Pierce or CB Performance to see if they can set up a package for you. Gene Berg used to have a system, part number GB 460D. You might could call them and see if they still have parts available.

 

[CalebinColorado]

You'll need the center pull style linkage. That's hard to find nowadays; you'll need to call Pierce or CB Performance to see if they can set up a package for you. Gene Berg used to have a system, part number GB 460D. You might could call them and see if they still have parts available.

so i apologize a head of time that this post is not stating i have the piece for rocker im sorry. but i have questions about the carbs and engine in general. i believe i have the linkage style listed above?
but i still do not know what carburetors i have on my engine or what engine i have for that matter, in searching google it seems that i have a 1600cc "displacement" ? dual carb set up. does anyone know where i can find a book specifically for this engine? im uploading 2 photos, the white sterling rear end is my somewhat recent setup(few recent changes) and the red photo is the one i found on google that closest resembles mine. any help is much appreciated. identifying my engine and or carbs would help SO much.
Caleb

 

[Brett Proctor]

Looks like a Type 3 VW engine

 

[letterman7]

That is a Type 3 "pancake" engine out of a ... well... Type 3 Volkswagen - the station wagons and four door cars. Mechanically identical to a Type 1 Beetle engine except for the cooling tins, the location of the generator or alternator and the oil fill and dipstick. You do not have Weber DCNF's on that motor, more likely a pair of single throat Solex's.

The engine code for that block should be stamped near the distributor on the inside of the block. It's hard to see, but it really doesn't matter. 99% of the parts you need are available for that engine. For the carburetors, they too should be stamped on the main body. It'll be pretty obvious, though you may need a flashlight and a mirror to see it. Look for the flattest section on the body (the fuel bowl) and that's where it'll be - on the side.

 

[CalebinColorado]

That is a Type 3 "pancake" engine out of a ... well... Type 3 Volkswagen - the station wagons and four door cars. Mechanically identical to a Type 1 Beetle engine except for the cooling tins, the location of the generator or alternator and the oil fill and dipstick. You do not have Weber DCNF's on that motor, more likely a pair of single throat Solex's.

The engine code for that block should be stamped near the distributor on the inside of the block. It's hard to see, but it really doesn't matter. 99% of the parts you need are available for that engine. For the carburetors, they too should be stamped on the main body. It'll be pretty obvious, though you may need a flashlight and a mirror to see it. Look for the flattest section on the body (the fuel bowl) and that's where it'll be - on the side.

Sweet! well its good to know that its a type 3 and that parts arent to hard to get a hold of. and i wasnt saying that my carbs wer the 40s lol just assuming that my linkage was the " center pull style linkage".still, all the input is SO appreciated, being a noob into the VW world is made ALOT easier when i have the much needed help you all provide

thanks again,
Caleb

 

[letterman7]

No problem. All dual carbs use a 'center pull' linkage of some sort; DCNF's typically utilize a cam style since the throttle cams are located differently than say an IDF version. Hard to see on your photo.. if you can take a photo of the intake plenums that the carburetors are bolted to we can tell if the heads are a single or dual port. A single port will appear to have one tube going to the head; dual ports - two tubes!

 

[time907356]

General question on dual carb set up. With the Cimbria/Sterling engine bay layout, it looks like the well walls will need to be significantly cut-out to make room for the air cleaners. Also, once done, it looks like they will dump any water right onto the carbs if/when exposed to the weather.
I was planning duals until I saw some of the pictures. Are there any suggestions to avoid the substantial body mods, and possible resulting floods?

 

[letterman7]

It'll dump water even without the cutouts on a dual-carb setup. Nothing you can do but make sure the carburetor has a full air cleaner on it with a solid top - no foam covers here. I drilled a 1/4" hole at the lowest point of the engine hatch cutout and glued a rubber tube from the hole down past the engine and let the water that collected drain out that way. Worked pretty good.

As for cutting the body to make room.. yes, it's inevitable for most applications. The only dual that I know of that will fit fully under the body is the DCNF, and you have to use the Type 3 manifolds to make those work. I don't know how far under a larger carb like an IDF on shorty manifolds would go.. never had the chance to try it.

 

[Brett Proctor]

With the Cimbria/Sterling engine bay layout, it looks like the well walls will need to be significantly cut-out to make room for the air cleaners. Also, once done, it looks like they will dump any water right onto the carbs if/when exposed to the weather

Build an encasement that follows the opening that you have to cutout then if you want make a lid for it to seal the top. In the low spots that don't drain make a drain opening like Rick did. If you get alot of rain you make want to go with a bigger opening than he did.

Once you get the encasement made you can use caulking to seal the bottom and rivet it to the car or just glass it in. Shouldn't take too long to make. You could make it out of fiberglass or metal. I think fiberglass would be easier to make.

Brett