Type 1 Transmission

[Brett Proctor]

Well I'm getting educated on the type 1 transaxle. I've been going through my transaxle getting it ready for the subaru motor and I'm finding some interesting things about it. Not all type 1 transaxles are created the same.

First I had to buy two different service manuals because the transaxle I have is not the same year as the pan I found out. The changes that VW made to the transaxle was more than enough to justify buying the second manual. I've narrowed the year of my tranny some where between mid 1970 to 1972.
This I detemine from the gear ratios, the pinon shaft and the pinon bearing and the new style 3rd and 4th gears in it.

I was thinking it would be helpful to people to make a chart showing the changes through the years that VW made to the transaxle(maybe someone has all ready done this). And maybe try to find a serial number chart for the transaxles. If someone needed to replace a transaxle or needed internal parts it may be of some help.

I don't have the time to start it now but when I get some spare time it sounds like a good project.

You guys probabaly all ready knew all this but it's new to me so I thought I would post my findings.

Ok thats enough typing for me for one day(I hate to type. My mind works faster than I can type and sometimes it doesn't make sense or doesn't sound right what I type).

Later
Brett

 

[letterman7]

TheSamba.com :: Beetle VIN numbers

That's for the production cars. As you've discovered Brett, nothing is ever as it seems. Issues come into play with rebuilds and previous owners swapping parts. It's often easier and cheaper to buy a rebuilt transaxle than it is to have the original rebuilt, hence the non-linearity in parts versus years. When rebuilt transaxles are used, they are often fitted with new(er) style parts, so you can't even take that into account. What it sounds like you may have, though, is a "freeway flyer" with the higher 3rd and 4th gear ratios. A nice thing to have, especially with a watercooled. It'll keep your highway rpms down.

 

[Brett Proctor]

Now what fun would that be Rick if I just went out a got a rebuilt one. That would be to easy. I wouldn't learn nothing plus I don't trust the quality of work of todays mechanics. If I do it myself I know what the tolerances were set at and I know whats inside and what was done. Right now I cann't find any place that carries the shims and the input shaft(its rusted where the pilot bearing goes). That may cause me to get one all ready rebuilt.

By taking it apart I know it has the stock gearing in it and I have a 4.125:1 pinon/ring ratio and if I have to, I can figure out what gearing I'll need to change if I have to.

After all this is a kit car, why should I limit myself just to certain areas of the build. When I asked about the drop floor pans a while ago I thought about it and decided I must be a pussy not wanting to build those(Those are easy to build). So I went out and got the steel and made them. The steel cost $58 for a 4X8 sheet. I got alot of steel left. Any way I told myself I wasn't going to slack any more on the build.

Later
Brett

 

[letterman7]

You're already way ahead of me in your abilities with mechanics, Brett! I don't trust myself with rebuilding a transaxle or even an engine - I just don't have the confidence to get the tolerances correct (or have the right tools..). So I'll leave it to the pros - CB Performance, Chirco, guys like that. That way, I'll have a warranty as well!