SUV lift system

[Peter]

Sounds like it could be a better option that a linear actuator, if only one could figure out how to connect it to the 30 pound doors, seems a bit large to sit behind my head in the centre of the roof.*hmmm*
But to open and close a hood or trunk it would work

 

[Brett Proctor]

Got the system working*dance of happiness**dance of happiness*


When the motor is not lifting or lowering the canopy the system disengages it. So at rest the motor is not engaged and you can manually open or close the canopy.

Thats even better because if there is a power failure the system wont be engaged and you can unlock the latch system manually and lift the canopy open.

 

[islandman]

Got the system working*dance of happiness**dance of happiness*


When the motor is not lifting or lowering the canopy the system disengages it. So at rest the motor is not engaged and you can manually open or close the canopy.

Thats even better because if there is a power failure the system wont be engaged and you can unlock the latch system manually and lift the canopy open.

You will need some method of keeping the holding pressure down to stop the roof jiggling around when the car is being driven. Either that catch system you were working on or something similar, but I'm sure you probably already have this covered

 

[Brett Proctor]

You will need some method of keeping the holding pressure down to stop the roof jiggling around when the car is being driven. Either that catch system you were working on or something similar, but I'm sure you probably already have this covered

I'm going to try and use the oem latch that came with the suv.

It has a pull down feature. Once the latch catches the striker it pulls it down to the fully closed position.

Still working out all the details but getting it to work outside of its element is a plus.

I may have to get a key fob and program it to operate the system. That was the way it operated in the suv but there is a button inside to initiate the open mode.

 

[islandman]

Looks interesting and the type that pulls it closed will do the job nicely if it can be made to work. Then you have to worry about an emergency release for that too! *laugh*

 

[Brett Proctor]

Then you have to worry about an emergency release for that too! *laugh*

I don't think I've ever seen a latch without a manual release for it.

In this case the rod you see in the pictures is attached to the manual release for the latch.
I can make up a cable to connect a lever (placed anywhere in the car) to the latch for a manual release. Just pull the lever and the latch releases.

Stop making this harder than it is*laugh**na-na-na*


Oh wait!!*yipes*
Is this one of those "keeping the site active" posts*laugh**laugh*

 

[islandman]

Oh wait!!*yipes*
Is this one of those "keeping the site active" posts*laugh**laugh*

No it wasn't *na-na-na* I actually didn't know they had an inbuilt manual release. So looks like you have all the right bits now for a very interesting solution *thumbs up*

 

[Brett Proctor]

No it wasn't *na-na-na* I actually didn't know they had an inbuilt manual release. So looks like you have all the right bits now for a very interesting solution *thumbs up*

*thumbs up*


Right now everything works but the latch release when opening. I think the keyless entry has something to do with this. Without the keyless module telling the other module that the back is not locked it thinks it is.
However once the latch is manually released everything works as it should, including the closing part.

The unit produces about 11" of travel(I'll double check that) and is quiet as a mouse.

It takes about 5 seconds to complete a cycle(close to open) with no load.

Right now I've been focusing on just getting it to work.

It has no CAN bus(Controller Area Network). It uses a single wire like the AC controls I have use. So far communication has not been an issue except for figuring out why the latch wont release.

It also has a chime in it for when the unit is in operation. Kind of like a warning signal to stand clear I guess.

It has pinch sensors in it so the canopy wont come down on top of you.

Once I feel good about if it will work or not I'll post some pictures and reveal where I got it from

 

[Brett Proctor]

Got it all to work properly today

Latch releases as it should

 

[vpogv]

When are you going to throw a full load and really test? *thumbs up*

 

[Brett Proctor]

When are you going to throw a full load and really test? *thumbs up*

Yaughn tested one out with a 12v 40A battery used for a trolling motor, I believe he said and it pull 85 lb before it stalled out. I figure it will do more when hooked up to a car battery

In the last few days I have found another system that's a little more compact but it uses CAN to operate so I'm not interested in perusing that system. Earlier versions may have a different operating system though. If I find out it does I may look closer into it and discard the system I have now.

That's whats going on here plus I came across a new unique look for a center console that I'm interested in. So it looks like I'll be making a new center console also

 

[Brett Proctor]

When are you going to throw a full load and really test? *thumbs up*

Well it took some time to answer your request but today I put it to the test and tested out how much force it puts out.

This is the second system that I found and after some research I found out that the earlier versions didn't use the CAN network so I went out and found the earlier version and got it.

I got all the issues worked out and was getting ready to start installing it but thought I better test it first to make sure it puts out enough force to lift the canopy.

Well after putting together a Mickey Mouse setup(put it my 20 ton press with a bathroom scale to measure the force*laugh*) and turning off all the safety features I hit the switch.


The dial on the bathroom scale went spinning up to 280lb with no hesitation before the overload switch in the motor disengaged the clutch and turned the motor off.
Did this a couple of times and very time the result was the same.

Couldn't get the system to hold a steady force for any length of time because of the feature in the motor.

It put out enough force to put a dent in the scale*laugh*
Kind of hard to see

 

[letterman7]

As long as the cylinder didn't start to retract, it wouldn't matter if you couldn't get a steady pressure. Once disengaged, the lift should stay until the "retract" order is given. Seems that 280#'s is plenty (x2 lifts) for the canopy.

 

[Brett Proctor]

I think I should do a recap on how this system works.

First off the 2 systems that I'm working with operate in the same way. The only real difference is one uses an arm and rotates a given distance. Kind of like the hands on a clock.
The other is like a rack and pinion and moves in a linear motion.

Both systems run on 12VDC. Ive operated it off of a 30A fuse with no problems but I think it calls out for a 40A fuse. I'll have to check.

Both systems retain the oem gas struts. Even though the system has enough force to do the job by its self the oem gas struts allow you to still open and close the canopy with no help from the system, which was the selling point for me. You will have another way to get out in case the system fails.
Both systems also work off of a key fob, can be locked, and have a manual operated interior and exterior opening/closing switch for activating the system. If power goes out you can open and close the canopy manually, the latch has a manual release system incorporated into it.

OK here's how it works

The latch houses the limit switch for turning off the system in the closed position. As the striker engages with the first stage of the latch the system shuts down the motor and a solenoid disengages the drive system.
The latch then pulls the striker down to the fully closed position(second stage)

The system has a fully open limit switch and that sets the limit for opening. This has no adjustments but as with most things you could modify it if you wanted to.

One thing to point out is no matter where in its travel once the striker engages with the latch the system will stop thinking its reached the fully closed position.

Ok next feature of this system is once it reaches the open or closed position the system disengages the drive system so you can manually open and close the canopy. Your not locked in and have to forcefully try to open or close the canopy. It opens and closes as if the system wasn't there, hence the reason for retaining the oem gas struts.

Another feature the system has is once activated a beeper sounds off for a few seconds before anything happens to let you know the the system has be activated. This happens in the opening and closing sequence.

It also has pinch sensors so if anything gets trapped between the body of the car and the canopy the system stops and the drive system is disengaged(I haven't done alot of testing on this feature)

I think thats about all. If anything else comes up I'll update this.

So in a nut shell the canopy can be opened or closed manually or by power

 

[Peter]

Sounds like a perfect system to me, has all the features needed, only wish I could get my doors to work as well, they twist like a pig as can be seem on the You tube video and 8" is not enough travel but 12" is too long to fit. *nothing to see*

 

[islandman]

That does sound like all the bases are covered, and a neat solution *thumbs up*
I assume the latch mechanism has plenty of "pull" to draw the canopy down really tight between 1st and 2nd stages so that it compresses the canopy seal down well. Anyway of measuring that force at all? Spring measuring tool maybe

 

[Peter]

That does sound like all the bases are covered, and a neat solution *thumbs up*
I assume the latch mechanism has plenty of "pull" to draw the canopy down really tight between 1st and 2nd stages so that it compresses the canopy seal down well. Anyway of measuring that force at all? Spring measuring tool maybe

Just put a finger on the seal, if it hurts like hell, it's tight enough. *laugh*

 

[Brett Proctor]

Both systems run on 12VDC. Ive operated it off of a 30A fuse with no problems but I think it calls out for a 40A fuse. I'll have to check.

OEM wiring diagram shows a 40A fuse to the system

That does sound like all the bases are covered, and a neat solution *thumbs up*
I assume the latch mechanism has plenty of "pull" to draw the canopy down really tight between 1st and 2nd stages so that it compresses the canopy seal down well. Anyway of measuring that force at all? Spring measuring tool maybe

Since the OEM setup has a seal also that would need pressure exerted on them to seal the thought of it not having enough force for the seal on the canopy never crossed my mind, but thats a good point to check out just to be on the safe side. I'll see if I can find something to test it out on. those spring weight testers are not that expensive.

I think a setup like this is a mandatory thing to have in today's high tech gizmos. If nothing more than the safety features it has.
Times have changed. People now a days aren't going to pay big money for yesterdays technology.

The car has the looks to sell but it needs help catching up to todays technology.

With the cost of materials and labor not what they use to be and the donor vehicle no longer available this car is not cheap to make anymore.

As the saying goes.
lead follow or get out of the way.

OK Back to the topic.
My biggest fear of the system right now is if one side fails and the other side continues to work. That would put a huge twisting force on the canopy I think before the functioning side stops, so I'm trying to figure out how to keep that from happening

 

[Brett Proctor]

My biggest fear of the system right now is if one side fails and the other side continues to work. That would put a huge twisting force on the canopy I think before the functioning side stops, so I'm trying to figure out how to keep that from happening

After giving it some thought this may not be a problem.

Basically when I open or close the canopy now (I have the stock manual setup), I'm applying force to one side only and with the help of the gas struts that keeps the canopy balanced. So Everything should be ok even if one side fails, unless if the one side that fails locks up.

I'm not going to worry to much about it and start getting the system ready to install in the car.

 

[islandman]

.
My biggest fear of the system right now is if one side fails and the other side continues to work. That would put a huge twisting force on the canopy I think before the functioning side stops, so I'm trying to figure out how to keep that from happening

If both sides share a common fuse that should eliminate an electrical failure allowing one to operate and not the other. If its a mechanical glitch then cross your fingers it causes the common fuse to blow