Sterling #S009

[kirk]

Brett
looking at the pic with the mirrors it looks like your top is folding in at the front corners, mine is doing that also. what are your plans if any to fix it? My top is drooping in the front center also and sits below the front hood, the drivers side flexes up around 5/8s an inch and the pass around 1/4. It really looks like crap. I am curious as to the extent of work to fix this issue. I was told it is because it had the manual lift and the struts were pushing it up and over time just warped the top, do you think with a hydraulic setup that the pistons would hold it down and retain its shape if the glass was fixed? I am going to buy a new top and didnt know if the original was savable.

 

[Brett Proctor]

The story I read or was told, I think (Rick would know better than me) was that the problem was in the molds and it could of also been in the cureing of the fiberglass. The glass may not have been fully cured before they pulled the piece from the mold. Your demensions of the top being out are all most the same as mine. If you look at pictures of all the early built sterlings I think you'll notice that they all have the same problem. Later in the years the problem was fixed I think.

And Yes I was going to give it a try to fix it. I'm planning to build a new front hood(bonnet)with some changes in it for the radiator. After that my thoughts on how to fix it are a little vague but I don't want to remove any material and jeaperdize strength so I'll probably build up the areas that are sitting low. I haven't given it alot of thought yet so don't hold me to any of this. Right now I'm focused on fixing other parts of the car. I'm sure someone else on the forum has tackled this problem maybe they'll pipe in and give us a hint on what they did.

Sorry I couldn't of been of more help.

Brett

 

[letterman7]

The front corners were always lower than the wheel wells. That's just the way it was designed. With some glass work everything can be made flush, of course... some guys (like me) just let it ride as one of those little perks of the kit. As for the rest of the canopy moving/collapsing... you'll have to remind me, Kirk, if yours is a T-top, standard roof, sunroof or targa.
Oh.... wait... are you talking about the entire canopy dipping below the front hood? If that's the only case, then yes, that is normal and the way it was designed. The flex you're finding is from the give in the lift rams and hinges. While hydraulics will help pull the canopy down and keep it there, it doesn't cure the overlaying issues. There was a certain amount of "space" to provide cushioning from the canopy seal. If the seal is damaged or missing, then the canopy won't line up correctly. Since you're in the middle of the restoration, try putting a new seal around the canopy first, then re-aligning it using the adjustments on the hinge plates. You'll have to loosen the bolts on the top mount of the hinge first, take the interior fiberglass trim off (if applicable) to expose the bolts, close the canopy and have someone on the outside push or lift the corners to where you want them to be, then tighten the bolts back up. In 90% of the cases that cures the odd match to the fenders. But Brett is also correct - the right hand (passenger) side corner has always 'lifted' a little. That was an error in the molds that just has never been corrected.

 

[kirk]

I dont have any seals on it now and thats the heighth that the corners are sticking up proud over the wheelwells. I tried pushing down on the edges but that causes more issues. I just dont think I could live with it after doing a total rebuild. It just doesnt look right and I'm very anal when it comes to parts fitting right, thats why I sold my Kelmark and got the Sterling. Right now I have the old top without any t-tops or sunroofs. I am going to get one of Daves targa tops anyhow and hope he doesnt have this issue with his tops. From the pics I've seen of his parts they fit like they should. I want the targa top also because I feel trapped in the car with the spacing in it. When the top is down I can only put my finger between me and the top and I am somewhat clausterphobic. It had a 4 inch drop in the floor but I think I'm going with possibly 4 1/2 - 5 inch drop with my new chassis. this should help some.

 

[Brett Proctor]

The rear body support bracket is finished but wont be installed for a couple of days. I need to get that LT-1 engine down to the machine shop and get that going, so tomorrow will be devoted to that.

Brett

 

[Brett Proctor]

Rear body support bracket is installed and works great. No flex at all in the rear.

Engine (subaru) is still at the machine shop. I told them to put the LT-1 in front of mine and that I was in no hurry for the subaru. My personal projects can wait if I'm doing work for someone else.

Got a tilt steering column out of a 1991 Honda Accord($50) from the pick a part yard the other day. We'll see if I can make it work. Also scored on some 1989 Honda Prelude front turn signals($free$). Those will need some tweeking to make them fit.

Started to update the dash but it didn't turn out like I wanted but here are some pictures of it anyway. Once I get it right I'll make a mold and make a one piece dash from it

Thats all there is for now

Brett

 

[ydeardorff]

Very Nice!
I dont think Ive seen a dash like that before! *thumbs up*

 

[thestevie]

where are you thinking of putting the turn signals?

 

[Brett Proctor]

Not sure if they'll work yet but here was the idea for them. Somewhere in the front.

 

[thestevie]

I have wanted turn signals that wrap around the front and side like ever since I got my sterling.
I'll have to get a pair. Thanks for the lead and picures

 

[Brett Proctor]

I took some time to see how the turn signal will fit. The bend is real close to fitting the lines of the car. If there are any problems with the fit maybe a heat gun can be used to make it fit better.
The amber lens is glued to the body so its all one piece.

As far as cutting out the area for it to fit in, it looks like it will get into the flange of the upper body section a little.
It measures 1 7/8"(47mm)wide

I don't see why it wont work at this point.

 

[letterman7]

Should be interesting to see if you can get this to work, Brett. The common marker conversion like you are doing was the Opel GT markers:


Not quite the full wrap-around, but the lines followed the car a little more closely:

 

[Brett Proctor]

Spent the day at the pick a part yard looking for air vents for the newly designed dash and window latches/hinges for the car.

Found this center dash vent with a clock and hazard button in it. It came out of a 1991 Toyota Celica. Its narrow enough to fit between the pods if you have that style of dash. And of course you will have to blend it in to the existing dash lines. It has two vents so your passanger can have some air too. Hooking up the duct work will take some figureing out but it can be done.
Cost: $13.00


Found the hinges in a 1975 Dodge Tradesman van. Not sure if they will work but it had potential so I got them.

Latches came from a 1990 Dodge 250 Van. Again I'm not sure if they will work yet but they looked like they might. No problem finding these in the junk yard. Lots of them.
Cost of hinges and latches: $11.00

 

[Brett Proctor]

Just an update on the window hardware. The hinges don't seem to work. The pivot point is different from what I have. I can post measurements if you want, just incase your pivot points are different from mine. The latches look ok though. They look like they'll work. Will not know how much they open the window till I get a hinge for them. I may just make the hinges. There's not much to them.

Later
Brett

 

[kirk]

Brett
if you need real wood inserts for your dash or need any other wood parts for your car I have almost 20 years experience in wood parts for vehicles. I have quite the collection of wood available for consideration. feel free to check out my website, it has residential stuff on it but I can do anything with wood. www.Kirkkreations.com

I like the looks of that Opal turn signal and might have to locate a set for my car. I found a set of rear turn signals from a Lotus Esprit s1 that when turned upside down and switched from pass to driver that they really flow with the rear lines of the body.
Kirk

 

[Brett Proctor]

Thanks for the offer. I need all the help I can get. I had no plans to change the dash but one day I had some spare time and that can be dangerous for me. As you can see. Now I've made more work for myself. Something I really didn't need to do. I figure if I find some vents for the dash it will help give it some shape.


Brett

 

[Brett Proctor]

Today I worked on putting the center dash vents in the plug.

After some thought I figured it was better to make a copy of the vents and screw that up than it was to butcher up the vents and not being able to use them. So first I made a copy of the vents and modified that to fit in the area in the dash. After that I worked on getting the angle and position right. With this being close to the position it will be in, the dash is starting to have some lines to it. I still need to find some vents for the sides of the dash.


Brett

 

[kirk]

Brett
I really admire your ambition. I thought I was the only one who spends all their time doing something creative . I just wished I had free time for mine, I work 7 days a week and normally 10 hour days so that doesnt leave me much car time. I am having my chassis built by a guy in Texas right now and hoping he gets it done in the next couple of months. I would like to be driving it this year even if it isnt 100% complete. good luck with your project and I am enjoying seeing your progress. Kirk

 

[Brett Proctor]

Thanks

I just retired after working over 30 years for the city and this was suppose to be a father son project, but never under estimate the power of a female. He started hanging out with his girl friend more and more plus he finally got a job so it became my project.

It was (notice the word "was") suppose to be a simple(again notice the word "simple")repair and rebuild project , but its turned into alot more. Not that I'm not up to the challenge its just that all this extra work wasn't factured in and the cost to do it when I bought the car. Lucky for me I have the time and money to keep moving forward with it(and a patient wife).

I'm looking forward to seeing what you have instore for your car. I know what its like to work those long hours and no time for yourself, but if you love your job that makes it easier.

Just wait till Yaughn gets back. You haven't seen nothing yet. I'm sworn to secrecy. I'm hoping he's up to the task.

Anyway thanks again I'll keep the posts comming
Brett

 

[Brett Proctor]

Finally found some side vents that will work. They came out of a 1991 Volvo 740. I made a fiberglass copy of them just like I did for the center vent to make sure it would work. After that I had to make the plug form to the lines of the vent which was easy because of the material that I'm using. I made two plates the same size as the vents with the same curves, but because of the way the plug is I couldn't get behind it to install the plates so I had to cut a slit in the material to install them. After that I sandwiched the material between the plates so it will be an almost perfect fit when I cut it out for the vents.

Your probably wondering how I'm going to make a mold from this, being it so flexable. Stay tuned and find out

Here are some pictures of the process. One thing I should mention is that the wrinkles on the out side of the plates are removed with a heat gun and the wrinkles on the inside of the plates will be cut out so I'm not worried about them.

Brett