Sterling #S009

[Brett Proctor]

That was a really nice summary of those aspects of your car. Thanks for taking time to do that.

I feel guilty adding to the list of requests but I’d love to know and see a little more about your canopy lift system. I know the most general stuff about it but I think you were mainly working on that during the Dark Ages of this site when it was down for a while so it never really got documented here. I see the reminder up above that you are using the actuator from a liftgate but I’m curious about it’s all mounted and linked up. And hey, if it’s too much work, no worries.

First my window to edit is gone.
The lift unit I'm using is out of a 2008 Town and Country not a 2003

I tried 3 different systems and the 2008 Town and Country is what I decided to use. There were other units but I wasn't getting any younger so I made the decision to go with the 2008 unit.

Once I post pictures I keep them for a short time then they get deleted. I don't think I have any pictures left of the install of the lifting system but I'll check.
I do have prototypes of the lifting arms still laying around that I didn't use. I'll dig those up.

 

[Brett Proctor]

I am interested in seeing engine bay and frunk as I am starting on routing the cooling system. Thanks

Engine compartment
Coolant reservoir tank is out of a 1994 Lexus SC400
Power steering pump that came with the engine has been removed.
One belt runs the alternator and another belt runs the AC compressor.

There are various styles of oil filler necks in the EJ series engines and I don't remember what this one came out of but its not the one that came on the engine

There are various styles of intake tubes for the EJ series engines. I made an adapter that bolts onto the end of this one and used a K&N filter. (not my favorite brand to use)

On the top hose line running to the radiator I installed a fitting for the line going to the coolant reservoir tank, and in the early stages when I was having issues with the cooling fan coming on I installed a thermostat that would bypass the ECM's control for the fan, plus I added another bypass (yellow/green wire)that would turn the cooling fan manually. I left this setup on just in case I have issues down the road with the fan not turning on.

Installed a low profile oil pan. Tried to modify the stock pan but it looked like shit and didn't have as much oil capacity as this one

EJ22 & EJ25 Subaru Conversion 5QT Aluminum Oil Pan

Subaru-vanagon qt aluminum oil pan Alert discount purchasing conversion kit ground clearance original Vanagon offers Subaru capacity added benefit cooler result heat dissipation thick wall Shaped bottom allowing scavenging worst conditions high RPM

smallcar.com

Also installed a different water thats suppose to be a high volume pump. Part# 21111AA065

Subaru EJ high volume water pump - Search Videos

www.bing.com

Water lines run down the sides of the engine and transmission and then tuck in between the seat drop sections and run down the center to the front.
Both lines are 1.75" X 0.65 aluminum tubing.

To support the water lines I use off road head light mounts
I cut that tang off and recessed bolts on the inside to make it as clean as possible. The rubber grommet covers these up so you don't see them.

https://www.amazon.com/Bracket-Mounting-Brackets-off-road-lighting/dp/B072Q2N1PJ/ref=asc_df_B072Q2N1PJ?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80883021673420&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=84336&hvtargid=pla-4584482484121409&msclkid=21ae7c3dadf113359b7614ee97859f40&th=1

OK thats it for now

 

[sector]

That was very helpful. Thank you

 

[Brett Proctor]

Once the lines got to the front they split off to their spot on the radiator

I wanted to put in the largest radiator as possible but I didn't want to go butchering the front up either. I needed something that would keep the engine heat at bay here in the hot summer months and handle a condenser in front of it.
Spent many hours researching possible OEM radiators but nothing fit the car the way I wanted
Finally found the size that would work but it was a kit, which worked out great for me. I could put the inlet and outlet anywhere I wanted along with the fitting to bleed the air out of the system.

https://www.northernradiator.com/HIGH_PERFORMANCE/SEARCH_BY_CATEGORY/HIGH_PERFORMANCE_RADIATORS/CUSTOM_RADIATOR_KITS/2_ROW/19_INCH/209600B

Expansion tank is out of a 2000 Volvo S40

Now even though I changed the front with an opening for air to reach the radiator, in early tests the engine started to overheat. My guess was that because of the angle that the radiator sat at, 90% of the air was passing right by it and not much was getting directed up to the radiator.

So I made this air duct that forced directed all of the air from the front up to the radiator. No more over heating issues even in 110*f with the air on
Since then the fan hasn't turned on except when the AC is on. At traffic lights the temps start to raise but as soon as I start going the temps come back down to the thermostat setting. Which is 177*f

I think thats it for the engine and cooling system. If I left something out let me know

I covered the install of the HVAC system in another post so that I'll skip. Unless someone has questions about it.

Edit
Almost forgot the cooling fan
Its got 2 speeds and came out of a 2000 Ford Escort. Fits the radiator almost perfect. I trimmed some of the height off of the shroud for clearance at the battery
and used one side adhesive foam to seal it around the radiator.

 

[sector]

What process MIG or TIG did you use for attaching inlet and outlet on the radiator?

Is that expansion tank the highest point in the coolant system? At least from the photos it looks like it would be lower than the engine. But then again, I would think if it was the case, it would then overflow. Unless I am missing something.

Very clean and professional installation. Unfortunately in my case, I have to run coolant tubes from the top of the radiator so it will not be as clean as your install.

 

[Brett Proctor]

All welds were done with a TIG

There are 2 expansion tanks in the system. The one in the front is higher than the radiator and it removes any air in the system up front and the one in the back is higher than the engine and it removes any air in the system in the back. I never bothered to check to see if the one in the front was higher than the engine since the one in the front is meant to trap any air in the system up front not the back.
Haven't had any issues with it. Both tanks seem to be doing their job. No overheating issues or cavitation at the water pump.
Most important is that the heater lines circulate coolant all the time while the engine is running. If you don't allow the coolant to circulate the thermostat wont open (at least on the EJ series engines)

The advantage with the radiator kit is it isn't predrilled with the inlet and outlet holes. You cut the openings anywhere you want and then weld the fittings in.

 

[Brett Proctor]

Is that expansion tank the highest point in the coolant system? At least from the photos it looks like it would be lower than the engine. But then again, I would think if it was the case, it would then overflow. Unless I am missing something.

Your question peaked my curiosity.
So I thought I'd find out

Setup my laser level and measured from the top of the front expansion tank to the top of the engine block

Front expansion tank is 3.0"+- higher than the engine block. Probably where you see the coolant level in the tank is level with the block I'm guessing

In any case, any air trapped in the radiator the tank seems to be doing its job by removing it.

 

[sector]

That makes sense, since otherwise fluid in the tank would overflow.

 

[Brett Proctor]

That was a really nice summary of those aspects of your car. Thanks for taking time to do that.

I feel guilty adding to the list of requests but I’d love to know and see a little more about your canopy lift system. I know the most general stuff about it but I think you were mainly working on that during the Dark Ages of this site when it was down for a while so it never really got documented here. I see the reminder up above that you are using the actuator from a liftgate but I’m curious about it’s all mounted and linked up. And hey, if it’s too much work, no worries.

I have the grand daughter today and all weekend so when I get some spare time I'll try and post as much about the system as possible.
No pictures or documentation was kept in building it (at the time I think Rick posted a different system that you or he were working on. I didn't want it to turn into a who is better thing)
so it wont be as detailed as I usually post things. But I will post what I can.

 

[farfegnubbin]

Yeah, don’t worry about stepping on any toes. I’m legitimately curious what you came up with. I have a good deal of experience with the standard hydraulic cylinders and also the linear actuators that are used on some Sterlings and all Sebrings. I’ve also played with the fascinating mechanism they came up with for the Sovran and the GT (which uses linear actuators but also has a cool latch and back-up spring as a manual override.) I know the characteristics I want for whatever I end up using on the new Sterling but I haven’t finalized anything yet. (I’m actually nowhere near that point yet except that I like to try to think as many steps ahead as possible.)

 

[ratrog64]

Yeah, don’t worry about stepping on any toes. I’m legitimately curious what you came up with. I have a good deal of experience with the standard hydraulic cylinders and also the linear actuators that are used on some Sterlings and all Sebrings. I’ve also played with the fascinating mechanism they came up with for the Sovran and the GT (which uses linear actuators but also has a cool latch and back-up spring as a manual override.) I know the characteristics I want for whatever I end up using on the new Sterling but I haven’t finalized anything yet. (I’m actually nowhere near that point yet except that I like to try to think as many steps ahead as possible.)

On the new Sterling??????? Is there a new Sterling in the works or are we talking new to you Sterling?

 

[farfegnubbin]

Oh… there’s very much something in the works.

 

[Brett Proctor]

OK lets get this party started.

First a brief history

I probably spent over a year looking at different setups that the SUV's had for lifting the back lift gate.
The main thing among all of them was how difficult it would be to make them work in a Sterling. I needed to find a basic compact unit that wouldn't require CAN or a multitude of modules to work and how easy it would be to get or find parts for it.

I think I must have looked at just about every manufacturers setups. Maybe now there's a better option out there but at the time I was looking I settled for the system out of a 2008 Town and Country.

The system out of a 2003 Town and Country had a more compact latch system but the power unit (even though it was more rugged) was a bit larger. The 2003 had a gear drive while the 2008 went to a chain drive.
I tried to use the 2003 latch in the 2008 system but they were wired differently and couldn't get them to work together.

I also looked at a system in a Volvo. That unit was located in the roof of the vehicle and I thought of using that, but those vehicles didn't show up to often in the yards here. So that was out. Also trying to find a wiring diagram for the system was a pain.

Other systems I found were big and bulky

So thats how I came about choosing this system. It was not to complex, there was an abundance of them in the yards here and finding a diagram of the system wasn't to hard. I kept all safety features in the system (its possible to bypass them).

Power unit (Pictures are off of the internet. All documentation that I had is gone)
Rod connecting the power unit to the hinge system was lengthened.

Latch system
once the striker connects to the latch, the latch pulls down on the striker about an inch further.

The control Module
I pulled all the wiring harness for the system out and used that.

The system has 3 buttons that operate the system

First one is in the overhead console that will send a command to open and close.

Second is a button in the back that will send a close only command.

And the third is in the rear handle that will send a unlatch only command (no power lift)

You then have the key FOB that will operate the system remotely. You will need the ignition switch for this to work. It contains the CAN to send the signal to the control module.

The buttons have a curtain amount of resistance in them that allow the system to work. If you put just a regular button or switch in the system it wont work but if you put a resistor with the right amount of ohms then it will work. So lets say you don't want to use the pinch sensors in the system. Without putting in a resistor in with the same ohms as the pinch sensors have the system wont work.

The dive system does have limit switches in it

OK to be continued.

 

[farfegnubbin]

This is excellent. This is very helpful. Thank you.

 

[Brett Proctor]

quick recap on the switches
If you're going to replace the switches with a different style you need to get an ohm reading from the OEM switch/button and install a resistor with that ohm value in that line your changing out. That function wont work without doing this. I think the ohm value was the same in all the lines but don't quote me on it.

OK a little about the power unit

It is possible to use just the drive unit, however you will have none of the other functions in the system.
You can wire it directly to 12v and it will work, but you will have to figure out wiring for the limit switches and the engagement and disengagement of the clutch system.

A little about the clutch system.
In the oem configuration when the system is activated a beeper goes off for a few seconds to alert you that the system has been activated. This happens in the opening and closing stages.
The power unit then engages to the drive unit. When not activated the unit is not engaged and you can raise and lower the canopy at any time.(hence the reason for having the latch to keep the canopy closed and a gas strut to hold the canopy open)
You can manually engage the clutch unit, but I don't know if it is kept engaged all the time what would happen.

So a quick recap
The power unit in the oem configuration only engages to the drive unit when lifting or closing. At the end of each function the power unit disengages from the drive unit and you can manually open or close the canopy. The gas strut holds the canopy open, and the latch holds the canopy closed.

When opening, the beeper goes off, and the latch will release the striker and then the power unit will engage with the drive unit and open the canopy
Closing - when the latch senses the striker, the power unit stops and disengages from the drive unit, the latch then pulls the striker down maybe another inch to the fully closed position.

Using the key FOB, you have the remote open/closed button, and you can use the lock/unlock button also.

 

[Brett Proctor]

The chances you take using used parts out of the pick a part yard.

Been lucky till now.

AC compressor went out.

Bought a brand new one but the oem compressor is not available anymore so I got its replacement that required a different mounting bracket. New bracket was included in the purchase.
To install the new bracket I had to remove the alternator.
Didn't have any problems pulling both the alternator and the compressor. Had enough room to get both out. Today they'll go back in.

I'll have to figure out if the system requires any pag oil to it, if so how much.

 

[Brett Proctor]

Got everything back together.
Started the engine up and it didn't want to idle. Check engine light came on. Thought great what now.
Hooked the scanner up and got a code for the MAF sensor. Light bulb went on. oops, forgot to plug the MAF sensor back in. I disconnected it to get clearance to remove the alternator.
Plugged it back in and everything was good.

Didn't need to add pag oil. Compressor came filled with the right amount.
Recharged the system and it blows cold air. I didn't add the full amount of freon per the oem specs because I reached the oem pressure settings before I reached the quantity of freon thats specified.
I'll check it in a few days and see if more freon is required.

 

[Brett Proctor]

Well the drama never stops

Speedometer went bad.
Got i replaced and everything is working great.
Problem is, now I have to drive across town to the main DMV office and have them make changes to the documented milage of the car since the new (used) odometer milage isn't what was on the old odometer.

 

[farfegnubbin]

Oh geez! What a ridiculous “problem” to have to waste time on. Red tape is maddening. But you’re right: It’ll blow their minds if the numbers don’t match in the future.

 

[Brett Proctor]

The Saga of S009 CONTINUES

Went to the DMV thats across town today to get the odometer reading changed on DMV's documents.
Well I would have thought that all I would have to do is fill out a few forms and have a DMV inspector look at the old and new odometer to confirm the readings and I would be good to go.
Silly me, that would be to easy

Long story short

3 hours at the DMV and they said the title on the car is wrong. Didn't care about the odometer reading at all


Now I have to schedule an appointment to get the title changed.
Last time I scheduled an appointment I had to wait 1.5 months to get in.

In a situation like this I found it doesn't help to tell them that they're the idiots that drew up that title not me.

On a different subject, because of all the driving I did in the car today I found out that the exhaust is very quiet and all the noise is coming from the road (tires, wind, etc..)