Sterling #S009

[farfegnubbin]

That’s funny; I read that wrong the first time and was trying to figure out how you installed a panic button for the fact that your relatives are still living with you with no word on the house repairs. I re-read it. I’m good now.

 

[Brett Proctor]

I apologize for that. I should have worded that different.
Thats one reason why I don't do social media (except for here). I've had the same problem with other members posts. I had to read the post a few times to understand what the author was trying to say. Or come back later and read it again.

On a different topic
The storage bin thats located behind the seats has been finished, so it blends into the new center console now. For those that lost track of what happen. when I installed the HVAC unit under the dash the old console was to narrow to run the AC and Heater lines past so I made a new console wider so the lines will pass through but that console didn't match into the storage bin. So I had to change the storage bin a little. Maybe if I get a chance I'll post a picture of it.

 

[Brett Proctor]

 

[farfegnubbin]

I like it. It’s “only” storage bins but I think you’re one of the best builders out there for trying to make things look integrated. Nice.

And yes, I’m not a big fan of social media either. It’s often more frustrating than rewarding.

 

[Rob Sterling]

I really love these storage bins. Brett if you decided to make some extras they would sell like hotcakes! I would buy one.

 

[Brett Proctor]

Thanks Warren and Rob.

I have had other members ask about that storage compartment, but right now I'm just trying to get the new body panels made.
The mold for that storage compartment is history, so even if I were to build more I would have to make a new mold first.

 

[Rob Sterling]

I am waiting to see your car completed. Such an awesome build. If you decide to make some of the storage bins please let me know. Take my money!

 

[Brett Proctor]

I am waiting to see your car completed. Such an awesome build. If you decide to make some of the storage bins please let me know. Take my money!

I'm looking forward to that day also
Thanks, I'll let you know if I decide to make another one, but to be honest I don't see it happening.

Well I had some time to work on the car so I started to make the parting flanges for the front Buck/Plug.
I use polypropylene corrugated plastic that I get at home depot.
I've found that even when not waxed and just PVA is sprayed on it the fiberglass wont stick to it.
I use rubber cement to bond the plastic to the Buck/Plug. It holds it in place and it can be removed from the part without damaging the paint.
I have also used aluminum adhesive tape with good results but its harder to remove.

 

[farfegnubbin]

Looks really nice! Question for you (because you have more experience with molds than I do): How do you prefer to apply PVA? I’m rarely in the mood to fire up a paint gun just for that so I’ve been applying it with a quality brush. And I waxed the mold several times beforehand. But because it’s so nicely waxed the PVA doesn’t stay in a film and instead beads up a bit. I can mitigate it by re-brushing it while it’s drying but that takes forever and has the problem of adding some visible brush strokes that maybe could have been avoided. What technique works for you?

 

[Brett Proctor]

Personally I like to spray it on.
I bought one of those cheap spray guns from harbor freight and played with it till I got the coverage I wanted from it and labeled it PVA only. Thats all its used for.
Its got a 1.3 tip. I also mix the PVA at a 50/50 mix with water. I know they tell you not to do that but it works better for me. I tried using it straight but I guess because of the dry air we have here it came out like cotton candy and to stop that I reduced the pressure but then I didn't get the fine mist spray, and I got the same issue that you have of it beading up.
The trick I found when spraying is to lay down a lite fog over the part. Let each coat dry completely. I do that about 3 times. You don't get the beading then. Once you get that initial base layer down then you can put down a wetter coat (like a mist). I put down 2 of those.

As for brushing it on I have tried that but fail measurably. I get brush strokes in the PVA
For small jobs I have taken a micro fiber towel (cut to the desired size) and taken PVA (100%)and rubbed it in till the beading stops. Then I apply a second coat, but I just lay it over the base layer. No rubbing it in.
If If your not getting a glossy finish I then would try a 50/50 mixture over what has already been applied. Do not apply heavy applications of the PVA.
In a few cases I've used a pump spray bottle to apply the final coat but its hard to find a bottle that will spray a fine mist. I spray it over the part and let it fall down over the part not directly on it.
If after all that and your still not getting a gloss finish I have used straight water in the spray bottle and ever so lightly spray a fine mist over the part to get the PVA to flow together and gloss out.
If its beading on the first layer your putting it on to heavy(spray applications). Adjust the air pressure or the fluid control screw to get a fog like spray

This is just some ways I found to work for me.

 

[farfegnubbin]

Thank you. These are helpful things to try.

 

[Brett Proctor]

My early years I had the same issue of the PVA beading up. I was thinking of it like spraying paint but thats not what you do.
I Watched a few videos on applying PVA and found out that the first few passes had to be fogged on.
Make one pass let it dry, then make another pass and let it dry. It doesn't seem like you get enough on but it worked for me. Once you got that first thin film established and its dry then you can put a heavier one down next. (like a fine mist). Then the gloss of the PVA starts to come out. You shouldn't need more than 2 or 3 of those coats. Like I said before, I had to mix a 50/50 ratio to get that fine fog mist.

 

[Brett Proctor]

This weekend was a prime example of "When Shit Happens"

I had an opening this weekend to get the mold made for the front piece. but it was not to be.
Got the part waxed and sprayed with PVA with no issues, but thats the only thing that went per plan.
Next I got the gelcoat sprayed on, While waiting for that to cure a water line decided to let go. So shutting down the water I started repairs.
Got the water line repaired so I went to check to see if the gelcoat was cured enough so I could start laying glass.
The paint started to lift in spots causing the gelcoat to wrinkle and pull away from the part. Never had that happen.
That made the whole part unacceptable to lay glass on.
Well after removing the gelcoat from the part there were sections (of course) that the paint pealed off. so now the whole part needs to get sanded down and a new coat of paint applied.

 

[ThreeTimeTom]

This weekend was a prime example of "When Shit Happens"

I had an opening this weekend to get the mold made for the front piece. but it was not to be.
Got the part waxed and sprayed with PVA with no issues, but thats the only thing that went per plan.
Next I got the gelcoat sprayed on, While waiting for that to cure a water line decided to let go. So shutting down the water I started repairs.
Got the water line repaired so I went to check to see if the gelcoat was cured enough so I could start laying glass.
The paint started to lift in spots causing the gelcoat to wrinkle and pull away from the part. Never had that happen.
That made the whole part unacceptable to lay glass on.
Well after removing the gelcoat from the part there were sections (of course) that the paint pealed off. so now the whole part needs to get sanded down and a new coat of paint applied.

I feel your pain. I hate water leaks more than anything.

 

[farfegnubbin]

Wow, that sounds particularly frustrating. I hate the moments in a project when you realize you need to redo something substantial. I’ve certainly had it happen. (The one that comes to mind is a batch of resin that never set up and that I had to painstakingly scrape back off. What a total mess. Still don’t know what happened with that batch.)

What paint did you use? I’m asking because a few months ago I had a part that didn’t separate from a mold very well and took some of the paint with it (despite appropriate wax and PVA.). I had used a shaker can of standard grey primer. I subsequently read a few posts in other forums that said that primer from a shaker can shouldn’t be used on a buck. I still don’t know what the reality is. I wonder if I just didn’t let the primer cure long enough. (I think it was overnight…maybe 16 hours or so.)

Well, just jump back into it when you can. For some reason this setback was part of the process of moving forward for that part. I’m still excited to see your final bumper. It’s been looking great.

 

[Brett Proctor]

I May have found the problem
I used a gelcoat from another company and it appears to have a high shrink ratio.
I have never had this happen with the other brand that I used.
You can see after it has cured it pulled away from the edge of the cup and even developed a crack.
Now that I think about it, the problem didn't start till the gelcoat started to cure.

I stopped buying supplies from the other company because I got tired of them sending me damaged items.
I guess I'll have to suck it up and place an order for gelcoat from them.

This is the second item I've had issues with from this company (total boats). The first was the expanding foam. I Had to get that from US Composites and had no issues with their expanding foam. Problem with them is they kill me on shipping.

 

[Brett Proctor]

Wow, that sounds particularly frustrating. I hate the moments in a project when you realize you need to redo something substantial. I’ve certainly had it happen. (The one that comes to mind is a batch of resin that never set up and that I had to painstakingly scrape back off. What a total mess. Still don’t know what happened with that batch.)

What paint did you use? I’m asking because a few months ago I had a part that didn’t separate from a mold very well and took some of the paint with it (despite appropriate wax and PVA.). I had used a shaker can of standard grey primer. I subsequently read a few posts in other forums that said that primer from a shaker can shouldn’t be used on a buck. I still don’t know what the reality is. I wonder if I just didn’t let the primer cure long enough. (I think it was overnight…maybe 16 hours or so.

Could of got a bad batch of resin or not enough hardener was applied or the MEKP was bad. Or it was just to cold outside.

I've been using single stage urethane paint, and up till now it worked. Looking at what happen closer, the paint didn't lift from the primer but its the primer is what failed. It lifted from the part. The paint was still adhered to the primer.

Canned (rattle can) paint is a Lacquer base paint I think, where as the paint thats sprayed with a gun is a urethane base paint and needs a hardener to cure hard, but urethane paints are suppose to have a harder finish and less likely to chip and fade compared to lacquer paints.
I think you can still get lacquer base paint but there are health issues which is why its not the best way to go now.

​

 

[Brett Proctor]

I'm going to try an adhesion promoter before applying the top coat paint and see how that works

 

[Brett Proctor]

OK lets try this again.
Applied adhesion promoter this time and the 2 coats of single stage urethane paint to the plug/buck.
We'll see if that works better
This has been taking so long to make, I hope it still matches up to the body.
The new side panels that I'm making, I haven't removed them from the car yet so those should still be ok

 

[farfegnubbin]

May the molding gods smile upon thee.

The buck certainly looks nice from here.

And I know you often chuck your old molds but it might be nice to save that one being that the nose is likely to incur the most scrapes and dings over the years.