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Sterling CCC400 (aka "the V6")

UPDATE 2025-06-20
The chassis is going for its first media blasting today. This will get things cleaned enough for work to replace the floor pans and other parts we have identified need replacement. We will later reblast and powdercoat. ("we" being my selected shop, Performance Welding - those guys are the ones doing all the work).
 

farfegnubbin

Site Owner
Staff member
That should be an excellent engine for your car. It’s going to fit well, sounds great, and give totally fine performance. Good investment.
 
UPDATE 2025-07-11
A quick word - I will have a more detailed update later with photos. So here are the big rocks:
- Engine mount as hopeless, it I’m has been cut off and will be replaced.
- Axle appears to have been broken and then (poorly) welded to “fix” it. I have previously mentioned some minor body damage but it appears the motor and transaxle were pushed and caused chassis damage more so than body damage…. This too will be cut out and replaced.
- Got the new pans and such on hand.
- Roll bar has been attached and fits around rear glass nicely.
- Transmission is confirmed to be a 5-speed from a 911 and currently *should* have OEM gears. I was told this is better than aftermarket rebuild parts…
 
UPDATE 2025-07-11
A quick word - I will have a more detailed update later with photos. So here are the big rocks:
- Engine mount as hopeless, it I’m has been cut off and will be replaced.
- Axle appears to have been broken and then (poorly) welded to “fix” it. I have previously mentioned some minor body damage but it appears the motor and transaxle were pushed and caused chassis damage more so than body damage…. This too will be cut out and replaced.
- Got the new pans and such on hand.
- Roll bar has been attached and fits around rear glass nicely.
- Transmission is confirmed to be a 5-speed from a 911 and currently *should* have OEM gears. I was told this is better than aftermarket rebuild parts…
I say “axle” but I mean the actual torsion bar tube.
 
UPDATE 2025-07-12
So many things to unpack and process…

John Moe (WestCoastCore) dropped off the new engine. It looks awesome and I owe you all some pics, later.

John offered some advice and insight on many things we had questions about. He spotted a slight (1 degree?) bend at the back, resulting from the “bump”. He made some recommendations on the rear suspension (and the front) since the rear is now cut up to the torsion bar and option should now be considered: AMR A frame suspension? Bolt on suspensions for front and rear? Do we put in a 69-71 rear for the shorter torsion tube?
He also clarified that the transmission was actually a 4-speed from a 912, but is in a 901 case. He said it should handle the torque/hp of his delivered engine and I could hit up to maybe 35 in 1st and should max out around 120 (not that I need to go that fast).

He pointed out that adding any original forks (like the superbug rear end we have on hand) would require us to lower the forks by about 1.5” to prevent the half axles from rubbing the forks (something that we found had been a problem with my original setup after we pulled things apart).

He offered some suggestions on my rear hood deck. Mine is flat from the rear window to the end of the car, one piece. It has a small air scoop where the quad jet stuck up. The issue he foresees is that I can/Will pull moisture/rain/debris into the engine bay. So while I do not have the problem of water collecting on the back like most of you with the original angled top. I still have the problem of dealing with water intrusion. Since my engine has some chrome and pretty stuff, reducing chances to get yucky are desirable. I will revisit this when we get to the body work phase.

I will likely have Stacy Covey (my fabricator at Performance Welding) stick the superbug end on as this will be the cheapest route to a rolling chassis, fixing the any tunnel angle issues in the process. We will also add the adjustable pedal system (thanks to John).

I will soon hit my pause point (my financial limit/allowance requiring a stop and regroup/assessment/planning. I should have a complete rolling chassis at this point, powder-coated, engine installed, etc. We will also have the air jacks installed.

Some plans for the body include:
- converting the canopy system to full electric
- adding an electric AC (the engine has a 90A for this purpose)
- creating room in the front to hold both T-top panels (they will fit but need something to secure them)
- adding nitrogen tanks for the lift system
 
UPDATE 2025-08-08
Things have been moving slow in terms of reporting major progress so I am going with the wave tops in lieu of cool things and finer details...

The entire rear was cut off from the end of the tunnel back. It was replaced with the suspension from a SuperBeetle. This was because a) we had one on hand, and b) the one we cut off was messed up enough that it was the easier route to go. This also solved the angle in the tunnel as Stacy was able to correct the measurements to true everything up to spec per the original assembly book (downloaded from this site, thank you to the community!). The frame stiffeners have been welded along the base of the floorpans. The transmission was verified to be a 4-speed from a 912 (in a 901 casing). As the axle mounts slightly lower than the centerline as with a VW transaxle, the fork needs some adjusting. This is fine since Stacy has replaced that as well being that the original was not salvageable. Stacy is going to install a mounting plate at the end of the 912 transmission which will allow things to mate up to the fork (the original plate was almost three times the thickness of what it needed to be). In so doing, he will adjust the positioning of the transaxle to ensure the half-axles do not rub the fork (as seemed to have happened in the removed one). The roll bar will be reattached this week when the adjustable pedal box (coming in from JonMoe) arrives.

I confess that I have spent a good chunk of change so far but I needed the skilled labor and lacked the time to do this on my own considering the knowledge I would need to acquire and the experience I lack. When all is said and done, I may confess the total cost (parts, labor, etc) in a private message but only to the serious enquirers. Since this is a forever car for me and one I intend to drive heavily if not daily (including long highway trips), I can justify putting more into the car than some folks for whom their car is a weekend toy. So far, I have not been disappointed with what I have done for what I have gotten. I do have a very long way to go. Once we get the rest of the things done with the chassis, I will see the light at the end of the tunnel (although that will be a very long tunnel).
 
Undecided. What I started with was “dropped” but it was done with sheet metal from HVAC ducting and was not so neat. Right now the pans are stock. As we are about to pause the project for a few months, the body will go back on. We are going to install an adjustable pedal box. We will dry fit this and the seat to see how it does. If it makes more sense to drop the seat I will add that to my plans for Spring ‘26. Since nothing will be painted/powdercoated, I have time to change my mind a lot on this.

But I am glad you asked. I have been lamenting over a few things and now is a good a time as any to bring them up:
PROs:
+ I can have a slight bend to my knees rather than having my legs straight the entire time I drive.
+ The seat would be more reclined/angled and thus more comfortable.

CONs:
- I might loose a little visibility as I would sit lower (2”-4”).
- The lower the seat/floor, the greater the risk of bottoming out on speed bumps. There were a few scrapes on what was cut out.

At the end of the day, headspace against the canopy will be the deciding factor but otherwise, what should I consider?
 
Undecided. What I started with was “dropped” but it was done with sheet metal from HVAC ducting and was not so neat. Right now the pans are stock. As we are about to pause the project for a few months, the body will go back on. We are going to install an adjustable pedal box. We will dry fit this and the seat to see how it does. If it makes more sense to drop the seat I will add that to my plans for Spring ‘26. Since nothing will be painted/powdercoated, I have time to change my mind a lot on this.

But I am glad you asked. I have been lamenting over a few things and now is a good a time as any to bring them up:
PROs:
+ I can have a slight end to my knees rather than having my legs straight the entire time I drive.
+ The seat would be nor reclined/angled and thus more comfortable.

CONs:
- I might loose a little visibility as I would sit lower (2”-4”).
- The lower the seat/floor, the greater the risk of bottoming out on speed bumps. There were a few scrapes on what was cut out.

At the end of the day, headspace against the canopy will be the deciding factor but otherwise, what should I consider?
But as I look at what I posted, it occurs to me that I have a skirt around the pan which I could drop the floor to that depth and not have too much bottoming risk…
 

ratrog64

Well-known member
But as I look at what I posted, it occurs to me that I have a skirt around the pan which I could drop the floor to that depth and not have too much bottoming risk…
I want to offer up you making the short trip over from Tampa to Tarpon Springs to look at and sit in a couple of finished Sterlings. I have a chassis with drop pans without a body installed for you to look at as well if you need ideas. I have multiple builders journals here on site but I think actually looking at a car and how its done beats everything. If you message me I will give you my number and we can discuss a meet up sometime soon.
 
I want to offer up you making the short trip over from Tampa to Tarpon Springs to look at and sit in a couple of finished Sterlings. I have a chassis with drop pans without a body installed for you to look at as well if you need ideas. I have multiple builders journals here on site but I think actually looking at a car and how its done beats everything. If you message me I will give you my number and we can discuss a meet up sometime soon.
Thanks! Message sent.
 

Brett Proctor

Well-known member
The reason why I asked about if your going to drop the pans. From my build I wish I would have done this.

If you cut the flanges back to the edges in the seating area and widen the drop section to these edges you will gain a lot of much needed room for a wider selection of seats that will fit.

A little fabrication and welding will be needed to the modified sections but from what I've seen so far in your build that shouldn't be an issue for you.

At the center tunnel
P8100001[1].JPG



At the body
P8100005[1].JPG
 
The reason why I asked about if your going to drop the pans. From my build I wish I would have done this.

If you cut the flanges back to the edges in the seating area and widen the drop section to these edges you will gain a lot of much needed room for a wider selection of seats that will fit.

A little fabrication and welding will be needed to the modified sections but from what I've seen so far in your build that shouldn't be an issue for you.

At the center tunnel
View attachment 10870


At the body
View attachment 10871
oooooo! That is smart thinking! I like that. If I drop, I will do.

My fabricator builds legit race cars. We were going to install the seats so that I can easily quick-release remove them as some NHRA-compliant racers are able to do. The wider pocket to drop the seat into will probably solve so many issues I never thought of. Right now I still have the stock seats which are comfortable but actively remind me that I am at the maximum girth possible to fit and padding added to the seat would require padding removed from said girth. A broader pool of seats would be nice.

I have a good angle on getting deTomaso Pantera parts. A set of seats would be an awesome look (and be period correct).

Thanks!
 
oooooo! That is smart thinking! I like that. If I drop, I will do.

My fabricator builds legit race cars. We were going to install the seats so that I can easily quick-release remove them as some NHRA-compliant racers are able to do. The wider pocket to drop the seat into will probably solve so many issues I never thought of. Right now I still have the stock seats which are comfortable but actively remind me that I am at the maximum girth possible to fit and padding added to the seat would require padding removed from said girth. A broader pool of seats would be nice.

I have a good angle on getting deTomaso Pantera parts. A set of seats would be an awesome look (and be period correct).

Thanks!
I may have already shot myself in the foot though. We have added some chassis bracing.
IMG_5740.jpeg

This will rob me of some width for dropping the pan. The goal with this was/is to give a little better rigidity. My grander plan was to attach some bolt-on bars in the body cavity that anchor here (going for some side impact protection). The bars are already set and welded, so I hope I have not messed up…
 

Brett Proctor

Well-known member
If you can get the seats you want to use and check the fit that may be a good idea. I went through 3 different seats I thought would fit but they didn't. Looking at the dimensions that the manufacture posted they should have fit but they didn't.
Finding seats that fit are a big issue with these cars,
My seats take up all the area from the center tunnel up to the mounting flange of the body to the chassis. And I had to modify them to fit in that area.

If you have to remove it, better now with the body off than later when the body is on.

Another thing to consider is seating position in these cars, its more like that of a seating position in a go kart. Your laying back a lot more than you are in standard car. When Sitting upright like in a standard car there's a good chance your head will hit the roof when you close it. Hence the reason for dropped floor pans. To get more head clearance.

Just trying to help before its to late.
 
UPDATE 2025-08-30
Several things to catch you all up on:
Airjacks - So I moved ahead with the airjacks. I went for the 15" with the wide feet. These do require the use of nitrogen tanks but I will add these in a later phase.
Transmission spacer - The original setup had a thinner spacer plate between the Porsche 912 transmission and the Buick V6. The plate is not yet cut. I have a plan for that later that you might like...
Seating - @Brett Proctor 's idea to make the seat-drop-cut the full width is absolutely going to be done (thank you, Brett). I will be meeting with @ratrog64 this coming week (if things line up) to see some of his projects and refine my plans before we cut anything. From my measurements, I need to stay 19" or less when it comes to seating choices. This sadly kills my plans of using Pantera seats. I could get some pre-'72 for under $300 each or some post-'72 seats for a touch more. The advantage is the look and style. The pre-'72 has backs that fold forward, thus giving me easy access to my glass-panel storage area. The post-'72 does not fold but has a bucket seat option. Alas, these come in at 21", so not gonna be able to do it... I will stick with the original Sterling seats. I have some ideas on improving these. Just to whet you curiosity, I have a sound plan to add air-conditioning to the seats.

Upcoming: As much as it has been hurting me (feeling it in the wallet) to keep going, I am doing so. This coming week, the roll bar will be reattached, the front and back airjacks will be finalized and the repairs to the engine fork will be finalized as well. The week after, the plan is to remove the bracing I had added (see my Aug 10 post), cut/drop the pans for seating, set my seating position, reposition the shifter and e-brake on the tunnel, connect the linkage to the transmission, and add some anchor points for four point restraints, a support bar under the dashboard (this will make sense in a later post), and for the fuel tank/Nitrogen tank(s) support system. After that, it is finally going to be power-coated. At this point, I will have a full rolling chassis. All it would need to be a drivable chassis would be a fuel tank, wiring harness/controls, battery, and any obligatory (brake) lighting and such as Florida requires (hand signaling not withstanding...). Probably need to add a working brake system too. Conservative estimate from now for all of this is three weeks. My wallet eagerly anticipates the break but I have gotten so much done in the short time I have outsourced the hard work to a professional. I am happy with my results so far so I can only complain so much.
 

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Brett Proctor

Well-known member
From my measurements, I need to stay 19" or less when it comes to seating choices. The pre-'72 has backs that fold forward,
If I remember correctly the C4 Corvette seats measure 19" wide with no modifications.
Maybe something to look into.
And they fold forward. Something that I really like about them.
 
A huge thanks to @ratrog64 for inviting me over to his place. I learned sooo much. I got to see the four Sterlings he had on hand and I have some things to think about...
1. Yes, I will drop my floor pans. I need to go no less than 4" Given that I have a longer torso and stubbier legs, I need to see if I can go further than that... I now wish I had not replaced my rusted-out messed up (28ga?) ones with new OEM (20ga?) ones. @ratrog64 had a beautiful chassis hanging on the wall like some wild safari animal trophy skin. It was primed and dropped and reinforced/edged with 1x2 and looked awesome and his pans were custom 16ga. I was clumsily stumbling my way to where he already was and now I see where I need to go with mine.
2. His seating solutions were much better than what I had planned or ever imagined. I hear he has taken some criticism for them in the past but what was in the Gulf Car was perfect and is how I need to go. I may add some extra padding but that will be a very trivial task.
3. I need to loose about 70 pounds.
4. His canopy's pull-release to close in the Gulf Car is brilliant. I may choose a more comfortable placement than what he did but hey, it is all about what each person likes/needs.
5. I am definitely staying with the hydraulic over the actuators. The main reasons being speed and the ability to remain in place when cut off. This all has to do with the screw pitch. I just need to figure out a way to make mine less noisy than his as that is a big turn off for me.
6. I overlooked adding sprayers for my wiper. He has an elegant solution that makes a lot of sense and looks good.
7. I need to do some serious thinking about my intended A/C system. He put his coils in the front hood but this may likely interfere with my need to store my T-top roof panels there. I also neglected to consider evaporator placement. I am not a huge fan of putting it in the passenger side console but it is proven to work. Depending on what I find, I may have other options but this is a lot of homework for later...
8. His interior side panel pockets are large and spacious. More practical for accessing internal stuff (wiring, mechanicals,...) even if they do lack the bucket-pouch styling of the original pockets. Having switches and hardware mounted there is very helpful and practical so I have some things to think about.
9. The boat radio is a super cool and compact way to go. It makes me want to reconsider my plan to install a vintage AM/FM sideways radio - all of my modern digital music needs were going to be solved by a Bluetooth/FM transmitter.
10. My rear end is going to take heavy inspiration from the Gulf Car. I was smitten when I saw that.
11. The placement of his oil cooler and other such components is so practical. It also makes the changing of the oil filter a snap. His experience really shows in such pro moves.
12. The paint scheme on the silver car was beautiful. It really demonstrated what a show-quality car can look like (although the yellow one will be really sweet once finally put together). While some people may not like the rivets, it reminds me of the styling of the 1973/74 Panteras with the riveted fenders before they started welding the wider ones at the factory. The black hood completed that picture. It truly would not look out of place next to one of these - the rivets really do complete the picture. But I digress... The paint scheme and quality was so much better than the rattle-can job mine came with.
13. I have laid down the gauntlet on having a bigger-than-12-gallon fuel tank. I need to put my money where my mouth is. But this is a problem for a later phase of my project.
14. I have the wrong side glass. While mine is standard Sterling, it does not fit my frame at all. I will need to have some custom made to fit mine (and the T-top). I will likely need to start off with acrylic panels and later have the glass custom made. I also need to examine my current hinges as mine do not seem to want to fit my frame as nicely as his do. He has an excellent window pop-out hinge he got from someone on the site (injection molded job) and it is high quality. This will be added to my list of things once I get to the body work phase.

In short, my near term plans are to adjust the work done so far on my chassis and have the 1x2 bracing moved outward, replacing the current/default edge of the floor pans. I will also need to seriously drop my pans. I will see how low I can go without compromising my view over my dash (it is a GT wrap-around). I do not think I can recoup my money on the floor pans I have by modifying them. Otherwise, the air jacks are going nicely and the roll-bar is set with the extra bracing it needed. The engine mount plate has the spacers since the 912 transmission sticks out a good bit from the end of the forks.

There is always more but this will suffice for this update...
 
UPDATE 2025-12-31
All chassis stuff...

After my September visit to @ratrog64's cars and workspace, I took his words to heart. I was much inspired by this wonderful piece of artwork hanging on his garage wall.
Inspiration from ratrog.JPG

I went back and almost started over on my chassis. I had the pans dropped in a similar manner, gaps sealed and ground down, everything painted and then finally felt like I was heading in the right direction. Tell me what you think...
chassis after paint 202512.JPEG


chassis seams 202512.JPGchassis topview 202512.JPGchassis during paint (u) 202512.JPEG
 

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UPDATE 2025-12-31 (cont.)
More photos...

chassis engine mount 202512.JPG

Note that we repaired the split/rotting forks, adding threaded inserts in the process. A minor adjustment was also made to better accommodate the trans-axle from the 912 transmission.


chassis rear q with air jacks 202512.JPEG

Here we can see things getting put back together again. The airjacks have been installed and some basics are being run through the tunnel. This is getting things staged for Phase 4 of my project - The Wait. The Wait will be a time for me to recover from what I have done so far as well as work out (and acquire) the pieces and parts I need for Phase 5.

For the eagle-eyed among you, yes, I am missing a space for a gear shifter, parking brake, and a few other little things like somewhere to bolt the body to the chassis. For the latter, I am using rivet nuts that will go in where I need them. This eliminates the issue of having through-hole bolt/nut fastners. As for the hand controls, I will be dry-fitting my seats (taking heavy inspiration from @ratrog64 again). Once I find what works for me, i will then figure out the ideal placement for the gear shit and handbrake. Their original VW placement was impractical and one of my major peeves. So during phase 4, I will sort these things out and will purchase the components I need.

Other Phase 4 tasks include:
+ Figure out A/C hardware/placement.
+ Sort out T-top panel storage.
+ Sort out/acquire pop-up headlight hardware.
+ Replace sideglass - what I have does not fit at all given my t-top configuration.
+ Strip old gel coat (my red car is actually rattle-can-red-over-white-gelcoat).
+ Repair fiberglass in front trunk/nose. I may also try to reinforce the nose in general as there are minor stress cracks from the nose flexing down while the bottom skirt is not attached.
+ Replace external lights (front markers are from an Opel, rear is from Trans-am) - just need undamaged parts (NOS).
+ Determine placement for nitrogen tank (for air jacks).
+ Sort out/refurbish canopy system. I have original hardware, original gas arms AND hydraulic arms. The system seems to use the gas to help lift and the hydraulic (plus gravity) to help close. At least one gas arm is dead and the other is on borrowed time. The hydraulic system needs to be refurbished completely and is presently non-functional.
+ May try to mock-up the fuel cell as well.

My goal for the end of Phase 4 is to have most everything I need set so I can move quicker when I get back into the "doing" phases. A lot of what has taken me so long to this point has been not being able to get the body off to really see what I had to work with and then having to learn so much as I tried to do it. Having this forum as well as the few folks that got to hands-on see things (like JoeMo) helped identify some major issues early on. My boy Stacy and his crew have done so many good things that I just could not do in the time I have. What you see in these photos would have taken me at least two years to get to if I had done it all by my own hand given that I have maybe 3 hours a month I could spend on this project.

Anywho,... I look forward to hearing from you and I will post a few more photos next month. The car will be back in my garage and will be in a better state that I can actually putter around and make progress in mid January.
 

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