Sterling CCC400 (aka "the V6")

[doug-doug the mighy]

Yeah, you’re not joking!

I was thinking it would be nice to take the body off but I fear it may have been glued well when it went in and I do not want to damage it by trying to hard to get it off. Once I get the wheels, engine, transmission, and dash/console out, I will see if it is worth the risk.

It would make one of my upgrades much easier to install if I did: pneumatic jack lifts. I saw some or did this to their bug over on Samba and figured it would be a nice invetment. Definitely easier if I get the body off.

<sigh>
…summer 2026 problems…

 

[doug-doug the mighy]

UPDATE 2024-12-09 (part 1)
Got the car up on jack stands and stuck some cribbing underneath so I can feel better (plus I had it on hand)...
Without getting too deep into the details, here are my current determinations. Please review the photos to put my notes into better context.

 

[doug-doug the mighy]

Update 2024-12-09 (part 2)
* Chassis: Appears to be generally in good shape although there is some warpage of the passenger floor plan that I will need to straighten out. Some minor patching required due to things having been drilled through and since removed. Whole thing needs media blasting and proper sealing/painting. Body must come off.

 

[doug-doug the mighy]

Update 2024-12-09 (Part 3)
Engine: Nothing new here. As before, it needs a Quadrajet after getting fresh seals/gaskets, media blasted, painted and tuned. Given that it has sat for way too long, it likely needs the cylinders honed, so there is all that goes with that as well. After seeing the way the engine is mounted to the transmission, I am now resolved that I will be better off replacing things. I will go with a 6 cylinder 2.0L 914 engine. This will solve a number of issues for me later on. I will stay somewhat true to the car's heritage by keeping it a 6 cylinder but It will be a flat 6 and not a v6.

Transmission: There are some braces/brackets attached around the transmission which appear to be "bump guards" of some kind. I think these are intended to protect the transmission in the event the car bottoms out or hits a speed bump too hard. Given the weight of the V6 engine, it is probable that the side brackets are also intended to help support the original VW fork. The flywheel on the car is exposed. I can literally see the teeth on the gear in the photo showing the back of the transmission. It is a stock VW transaxle (still need to get code of side of it...) but I will swap out for a rebuilt type 4 suitable for the aforementioned 914/6 engine.

 

[doug-doug the mighy]

Update 2024-12-09 (Part 4)
* Suspension (Rear): Aside from the obvious need to clean everything up, it does not look too bad. I note that the stops on the arms were cut back, likely to allow better clearance for the tires but this was done is in a way that looks really jagged and sloppy. If I do not replace these pieces, I will surely clean things up.

 

[doug-doug the mighy]

Update 2024-12-09 (Part 5)
Suspension (Front): Something is out of alignment here. When turned to the left, the right wheel rubs the body at the bottom of the wheel well. This is exaggerated now that the car is on jackstands. I cannot see any wheel stops but have not take the wheels off just yet. I am still thinking I want the thinner tires on the 13" wheels as discussed above. I have been looking at the numbers and even the ratios of tire to wheel and think I can make this look damn close to what it does now. I promise you all that since this is one of the last things I will do on this car, there is almost a good year for me to change my mind on this... Either way, since I now must take the body off the chassis, I can address whatever is going on with this front right fender and why it is rubbing in just that one spot.

You can also see in here where the U-joint on my steering snapped as well as the tangle that surrounds it...

 

[doug-doug the mighy]

Update 2024-12-09 (Part 6)
* Body: I can see that the pop-up headlights were definitely custom done. By this, I mean that they do not match from side to side and I can see the cuts for the original headlights are unevenly done. As the whole mechanism for their motion is no longer secure, I will have to remove them and rebuild it all. Since it is driven by a common axle with an actuator, I will likely look at more modern alternatives. There are way too many holes in the front trunk's side walls (older photos...) and since the radiators will be coming out, I will now have a lot of patching to do. I may do something creative with that whole are but I need to smoke several pipes (tobacco, cavendish - not the other stuff) and sip several whiskeys in order to solve this problem. It is a "later" problem though.

 

[doug-doug the mighy]

Update 2024-12-09 (Part 7)
* Electrical: already known to be a rat's nest of splices and patches and unless it is hidden under the dash somewhere, the fuse box is possibly non-existant. The battery has a direct, un-fused line running to the starter motor. This line can be partially seen in the photo showing the mid section of the coolant lines. I do not think the original VW wiring harness is even in this car and if it is, it is not properly implemented. I will get an original VW wiring harness and start from there.

 

[doug-doug the mighy]

Update 2024-12-09 (Part 8)
Canopy: I can see the backside of the key (photo of lower air scoop on left side) and there is nothing hooked to it. I cannot find any wires that might go to it nearby. The canopy motion still seems nice although I am worried about the hydraulics over time. I will have to remove the canopy before I remove the body from the chassis so I will revisit this all later.

This is all I have for now, folks. I may think of something else later based on comments that come in. Now that I have completed the work required to begin my work, my next major task (per my 10/9/24 post) is to remove the radiators and coolant lines. I may not be able to do this until January but at least now I can get to it all.

 

[Brett Proctor]

Looks like you have a project.

If you got till January that will give you time to prioritize on what to do first. And then order parts for it (if needed)

 

[doug-doug the mighy]

Update 2025-02-23
I got the radiators cut out and removed the feed line to/from the engine. I did leave the rubber overflow line in place at it routes through the dash and then through the driver side body back to the rear wheel and then to the engine.

I now how’ve a huge hole in my front that I will have to later close up…

I also removed five of the eight bolts holding the seats in. I will have to grind the last three off on my next session. I removed what carpeting I could (dashboard, floors, etc) but will have to get the seats out before I can get the rest.

From what I can see, I need to replace my floor pans, the brackets at the back of them, and my engine mount fork. Looks like the body coming off is my next step.

Next steps:
1. Grind last three nuts to remove seats.
2. Remove last of carpeting.
3. Remove body (?).

 

[doug-doug the mighy]

Update 2025-03-22
I got some mentoring and advice from a friend (“BE”). He has done several cars before (mostly MGs) and does now his stuff. Today, “G” and I began removing any and all wiring in the front trunk and around the steering. We removed the pop-up lights and their bracketing. We removed the seats (had to grind those last three stubborn bolts) and cleaned the rest of the cabin up. We removed the wheels. We removed the mufflers. We removed/cut wires from the engine bay.

Next step is to remove the rest of the wiring from the side body panel and then remove the dashboard.

In a few weeks, we will work with BE and pull the engine and transmission. The chassis needs a lot of work: new pans, new engine fork, tunnel repair at fork…. Basically I have a tunnel and front suspension. Everything else is going to get “WolfsburgWested”.

The engine will go to the dump as I cannot store it and cannot find anyone who wants it. It needs a full rebuild to include machining the usual spots. It is a Buick V6 3800 (late 70s or early 80s) split pin. It is free to a good home IF you pull it. Otherwise, it is destined for the landfill unless anyone has some good ideas.

 

[farfegnubbin]

Sounds like progress!

You’re talking about junking that engine; I forget, what engine are you working towards using?

 

[doug-doug the mighy]

Sounds like progress!

You’re talking about junking that engine; I forget, what engine are you working towards using?

Gonna do a rebuilt/turnkey 914/6 with a corresponding transmission.

 

[Brett Proctor]

Interesting choice.
May I ask why you choose this set up.

 

[doug-doug the mighy]

So many reasons…
Since I have to completely rebuild the engine and the cooling system (the radiators in the front trunk needing replacement) needing a full re-do, my argument against a crate engine or rebuilt/turnkey one could not hold up. So I have to start from a clean slate. Plus the engine fork needs replacement (even if I did carve off all the angle iron added to hold the V6), it’s just a good thing to do at this point and easier. I got the car as a V6, so spiritually, it will always be a “6”. Since the back was already cut to handle the larger engine, the cover panel for which I have to remake anyways since it is damaged, I have a wide open space to hold a bigger engine. Dropping a flat 6 air-cooled in keeps it a “6” but takes it back to its true air-cooled heritage.

This will be a daily driver for me - and I drive from Tampa, Fl to Jax, Fl and back every weekend. That is a good 7+ hours of interstate time every week at speeds up to 85mph (I know where the speed zones are…). I figure I can compensate for nose-lift at high speeds by adding components for an AC system in the nose. Plus the 914/6 will cover some of the HP loss for having an AC drain. I will also add more weight to the nose with an air tank for a bag lift (4.5” clearance is not good for my driveway) and a jack lift system (since trying to lift the car to remove the wheels much less change a flat is impossible without a special floor jack).

When all is done, I can then build the custom rear panel that I have to do anyways. Some decent photos of the back are further up in this thread.

I would love to hear your thoughts as I still have time to adjust my plans.

 

[Brett Proctor]

I was just looking at how practical switching to the Porsche engine would be.
First off I understand your thinking

Cost between getting a rebuilt Buick engine vs a rebuilt Porsche engine (if you can find one). I haven't researched it but my guess is the Buick will be the cheaper of the two
The Buick engine has been around for a long time and can be found in several different cars, so parts are more readily available.
Finding parts will not be an issue for the Buick

The Porsche engine weighs more than the Buick.
HP of the Porsche engine is only around 110 HP.

You already have everything to bolt the Buick engine up to the transaxle.

If your not going to do the work on the engine, finding someone to work on the Porsche engine maybe a challenge.

I believe the Porsche has multiple carbs. That could be a pain to work on. Not to mention the additional cost vs the single carb that the Buick uses. (unless you go with FI)

Now I'm not a fan of either engine so there is no favoritism.

The Buick engine is more compact than the Porsche engine and in 1995 the series II of the Buick engine came out and that is more compact than the previous years.

There is more but that should do it for now.

I look forward to seeing your progress with whatever route you choose to go.

 

[Brett Proctor]

Thought of a few other things.

You mentioned getting a different transmission that bolts up to the Porsche engine. (old/existing transaxle wont bolt up to the Porsche engine)

Aside from having to make new mounts, the CV joints will be different. Will you need to get new drive shafts that will fit the new CV's and then fit the CV's at the stub axles at the wheels.(does anyone make drive shafts for that conversion)
Do you have IRS or Swing axle suspension. Rear suspension may have to be reconstructed.

Also, You will need to make new shifting linkage from the shift lever to the new transmission.

For me switching over to the Porsche engine sounds like more work (and money) than its worth

Just a heads up of what you may be getting into.

And then there's smog checks if its required

 

[Baz]

The 914 engine is just a type 4 vw lump, it will bolt to the vw transaxle with no issues. There's more power to be had per dollar with a built type 1 vw motor though, but if 6 cylinders is a factor, the corvair engine is also worth considering. Aircooled and can be up to 180hp in stock form, and they've been adapted for vw transaxle many times.

 

[Brett Proctor]

The 914 engine is just a type 4 vw lump, it will bolt to the vw transaxle with no issues. There's more power to be had per dollar with a built type 1 vw motor though, but if 6 cylinders is a factor, the corvair engine is also worth considering. Aircooled and can be up to 180hp in stock form, and they've been adapted for vw transaxle many times.

Porsche made 2 different variants of the 914.
One was the 914/4 which had the engine you mentioned. The more common version produced

The other was a 914/6 which had a 2.0l 6 cylinder. It was only offered in the 914 for 2 years I think. It came with a much higher price tag.
It was also the least powerful 6 cylinder that Porsche made. Rated at only 110 hp