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Sterling CCC400 (aka "the V6")

So I picked this one up off of unofun here on the site. So hats off to him - he gave me some really cool stuff with the car like a old issue (Jan '82) of hotVWs which featured the Sterling and a few things tucked inside.

About the car:
The body is a t-top style canopy on an early 80s chasis (I think it is 84 but Greg can weigh in if her remembers better than I...). The car has a smooth hood (no nostrils) and a louvered rear deck. It is finished in a cherry red with a gold pin strip on the front and the rear (nothing at the canopy). The car has been modified to house a Buick V6 3800, with a quadrajet carb. The back of the body has been bumped out a bit to accommodate this beast. The transmission is some kind of automatic with a kung fu shift grip. It moves like a manual but the lack of a clutch is telling...

Fun fact on this car, I refer to this car in my personal notes and computer files as "The Quadra". This is not only due to the fact that this thing has/had a quadrajet but that I am the fourth time Greg has sold this same car! We are both excited to see this come to pass

My general plan:
I need to drop the engine and completely rebuild it. I will finish it with a nice engine paint that suits the final look.
The carburetor was toast and will be replaced with a good quadrajet to stay true to its known DNA.
The transmission will be 1. converted back to a manual transmission (or some kind fo really cool Hurst slap shifter), and 2. repositioned to move it closer to the steering wheel (vice its native bug location buried deep inside the console area) making for a more natural loock and feel.
The parking brake was deleted but will be re-added.
The pedal box will need to be rebuilt as my short legs can barely hit them without me sliding too far forward in the seat.
There appears to be some rust near the engine mounts and the seat pans. Although barn kept for several years, I am sure this was from earlier and is likely superficial. It will all be remedied when the engine is dropped for rebuild.
All the wiring in the car needs to be replaced. Aside from some of it being just really old (1984??), I am frustrated by the fact that the battery I dropped in for testing has the terminals on the wrong side, meaning the cables are just a bit short to connect and still have the battery sit in its "spot". I also want to install a dedicated fuse panel in the nose for some major items (canopy, lights, engine stuff, etc). I may put the dashboard stuff on this panel or I may tuck it inside the cockpit, undecided as of yet. I just know that I need to clean things up from how earlier builders did things.
New fuel tank.
The canopy (as mentioned here) has a hydraulic liftbut I want to convert it to linear actuators. The "escape plan" for a canopy lift failure is to remove the windows ans t-top and climb out. the "locked out access plan" (meaning the system has failed and is locked shut with me outside) is still being developed but I am still doing my research on some ideas I have.
The dash will be converted from analog gauges to a multi-function display. The dash will be a bit less busy than before and I will use the newly available real estate to add a good head unit. I may go with some thing like OpenAuto since I have a spare raspberry pi on hand. I definitely want to add a rear camera so the screen will need a place to live.
I will keep the car red (with the pinstripe, it really looks good) bit I will have the whole body redone with a fresh gel coat as what is on there has issues all the way to the fiberglass in some spots.
I will change the front tires to put something a little more narrow on but I want to keep the overall look of the rear tires. I may change the rims completely so we will see on this.
 

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Summary entry 2022-02-11.
* Removed seat covers, put aside for later (will have to replace since they are not serviceable due to age/wear).
* Removed foam padding from seats and trashed them, will replace later.
* Dried water from seats. Picked up plastic drop cloth to put under the car cover since the cheap temporary cover is not as waterproof as advertised nor are the cockpit seals sealing.
* Removed dash board panel. Had to cut most wires due to frozen screw heads on terminals This is okay since a re-wire is planned.
* Added lithium grease to t-top latches since some were sticking - they move easily now.

Next step: identify a mechanic who can come out and pull the engine for rebuild OR find a shop I can tralier it to for same.
 

nbb350

Active member
Some advice based on my experience:

Look at the Highway wiring kits offered by American Autowire. ( https://americanautowire.com/collections/highway ) When you have a non-VW engine and accessories like us, there really isn't any point in modifying a VW wiring harness. Just start from scratch. I like the AA wiring kits because the wires are MARKED and connect at BOTH ends. It's a LOT easier to run the wires that way vs. when they're pre-connected to a fuse block and you're basically trying to "wire in an Octopus!" LOL

Another Escape Plan option could be to use "detent pull pins" for the mount at the bottom of the linear actuators. That way if the linacs fail, and you can summon some help outside, you can reach down (contort?) and pull the pins so the outside helpers can lift the canopy up for you to escape. AND THEN NOT DROP THE CANOPY! ;)

Are your side windows glass or plastic (lexan/polycarbonite/plexiglass)? If plastic, your Locked Out Access Plan could be "drill thru plastic to open window latch". Or, just don't latch the windows when you close the canopy. Or, remove the windows completely (and have no security, but depends on where you park the car).
 
Awesome! I will check them out. Thanks.

I like the external pull-pin idea, way better than my thoughts... (adding some real vent ports to the side which have 1. a sealable shield to protect the pistons from the environments, and 2. a relief exit for air entering the nose cone and passing over the front radiators - ugly but effective)...

My side windows are real glass. I have the brackets and catches for these but the rear pop-out hinge is missing the internal mount on both sides (at least I have not found them yet...)

The car will unfortunately be parked outside most of the time but I will get a nice custom car cover made once I am done. I plan to store it behind the seats if I still have space for the tops and glass (which I need something to put back there to protect anyways...)

My security plan includes: Apple AirTags, the key switch for the lift, a remote for the lift, and an aftermarket old-school alarm system (if I can find a good one). If I do the OpenAuto thing with a RaspberryPi, I may add some fall-back GPS thing through this with an independent GSM uplink. But I will need the windows on and closed when not in use most of the time...
 

nbb350

Active member
another idea for the engine: instead of a rebuild, look for a Donor Car with a good, running 3800. Note that the 3800 block bolt patterns are different between RWD (pickups and camaros) and FWD (bonnevilles and grand prixs) engines due to the different trannies they use. Depending on what you have in there now...
 
Update 2022-02-26.
So I got the rear panel removed, exposing the engine. I was hoping to find the actual engine code but was not able to see it. It is either behind something or not visible from where I can stuck my nasty little face. I did see part of a serial number (1255862).
 

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Last edited:
another idea for the engine: instead of a rebuild, look for a Donor Car with a good, running 3800. Note that the 3800 block bolt patterns are different between RWD (pickups and camaros) and FWD (bonnevilles and grand prixs) engines due to the different trannies they use. Depending on what you have in there now...
bird in the hand v. cash in the pocket...

I will stick to the engine I got as it does turn easy with a wrench. Still cant get the code off the block, but it is a RWD and is mated to a nice, thick aluminum adapter plate. The transmission might be a Hurst 3-speed but cannot access any marking on it without a lift...
 
I like the external pull-pin idea, way better than my thoughts... (adding some real vent ports to the side which have 1. a sealable shield to protect the pistons from the environments, and 2. a relief exit for air entering the nose cone and passing over the front radiators - ugly but effective)...

So coming back to this thought, I was noticing some older corvettes lately and they had nice side vents 1971 Vette side vents.jpg...

Putting something like this on my car would give me a stylish, removable cover where I can vent the brakes, vent intake from the nosecone (via ducting) and hide an weather-tight access panel to the pull-pins I could add to actuators...

Not sure if this is the exact style I would go for, but the coverage area is desirable and the parts are readily available.
 
Update 2024-10-07
I relocated the car from one backyard to another. This location has an overhang (although half of it is currently occupied...) and is entirely on a concrete pad.
I consulted with a nearby neighbor/car guru and have some better understanding of what I need to do.
The transaxle is a confirmed 1970 (+/-) VW one.

My current tasks:
1: Clear off rest of patio so the car can be complete covered.
2. Turn car around on pad to face opposite direction.
3. Raise car on jackstands
4. Remove radiators and coolant lines from engine to front of car.

Hopefully I can get this done before Thanksgiving...
 
Update 2024-11-16
I was going to get the last of the patio cleared out this weekend but something critical came up. But as it stands, I have gust a few small boxes left and a good clean-up of the area. Literammy less than an hour of effort.

In lieu of jackstands, I have opted to use 4"x4" pressure treated wood blocks (cut 8" long and stacked jenga-style in small towers) since the car will be sitting for a while and I am concerned that the car might get bumped. The towers will be more stable in the long run. But they are cut and ready. Next weekend, I will pull the car out and turn it and roll it back in to its new position. I have my winch ready as I have to go through the grass to turn it and there are a few low or soft spots to contend with.

I did get luck and score some new rims. Right now, I have some 4-bolt chevy-style rims on there. Not bed rims but not my taste for the final product. I was able to get some 15-spoke Western Wheel Turbines. I wanted 30 spoke but I can live with 15. I got four 14x7 rims and was then able to score two 13x5.5 rims (also 15-spoke). The 13s come from different sellers but the should match based on the images. Since the 13s are 4/100, I know I will need adapter plates but that is fine.

I plan to put either 165/80R13 or 175/80R13 on the front as these will have the closest diameter match to the 205/60R14 I have right now (currently on the 14x7 chevy rims). I will go with the 245/60R14 on the rear as this is what I have right now and is the widest I can do. I thought about the 215/70R14 and may load the spare 14/7 turbines I will have with that size - this would give me a wide set for killer looks and a more narrow set for better traction and speed-handling. At the end of the day, I will get the thing i really wanted which is turbine wheels and a thinner section width on my front tires (leading to slightly improved grip on the front end neglecting front-end lift at higher speed.

The rims all arrive in about a week and I will wait to tire them up until I get a bit closer to that part of my project

So this next weekend will see the turning and the lifting/jacking.
 

Brett Proctor

Well-known member
Update 2024-11-16

I plan to put either 165/80R13 or 175/80R13 on the front as these will have the closest diameter match to the 205/60R14 I have right now (currently on the 14x7 chevy rims). I will go with the 245/60R14 on the rear as this is what I have right now and is the widest I can do.

Personally I think going to 13" rims would be a bad choice.

Your current 205/60R14 tires spec out to be
Diameter 23.7"
Width 8,1"

Tires your looking to put on
165/80R13
Diameter 23.4"
Width 6.5"

175/80R13
Diameter 24"
Width 6.9"


Even though the diameters are close, your going to a skinnier higher profile tire which I don't think will look good on the car.
 
Duly noted. I have been playing with a spreadsheet I built that lets me identify the tires that fit a rim given certain specs. While I am mindful how much sidewall height I will have with the 13s, I am trying to weigh that against a want to reduce front-end lift/slip by going for a more narrow tire. I was thinking in the back of my mind that I might go with a 70R13 but I will have to raise the front suspension a little to keep a decent clearance. Right now, I have about 5" off the ground.

I did pick up a wheel spacing tool to let me measure the impact of a given rim size and tire choice (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CM8M9418?ref_=pe_386300_442618370_TE_sc_as_ri_0&th=1). I was going to play around with it before I put a tire on anything just to make sure my ideas will flesh out as I hope.

At worst, I can use it as an emergency spare and keep it in the garage.
 
It is supposed to let me adjust for rim size, backspace, and tire size. I got the center pieces for 4-bolt and 5-bolt. I do not foresee me needing the 6-bolt option but they have one... I am eager to try it out.

The only shortfall here is that I cannot find one that will handle 13" wheels. When it comes to @Brett Proctor's point, I will probably mock up a cardboard circle to see how things look. He is right in that I will have a ~5" sidewall showing on the front, but I will also have that on the back. It will take me several months before I am ready to actually do wheels at this point in my project but I snagged the six rims I did get since I can NEVER find them in a 4/130 configuration. As it is the 13x5.5 I got are both 4/100 so I will need an adapter plate if I do go that route. I just did not want to go with the 5-bolt look on this car. Shame since I really wanted to put an 8" or 9" rim on the back.

Tomorrow is the big day of my "lifting". I will pick up my brother's jack tonight and then clear off the rest of the porch tomorrow (needs a good wash-down as well...). At that point, I just need to turn the car around and push it under the overhang completely. All of this is so that I can pull the engine later. Right now, that end of the car is facing the house and will leave no room to work once under the overhang.
 
Update 2024-10-07
My current tasks:
1: Clear off rest of patio so the car can be complete covered.
2. Turn car around on pad to face opposite direction.
3. Raise car on jackstands
4. Remove radiators and coolant lines from engine to front of car.
#1 & #2 are done. Broke the steering linkage while trying to turn the wheels in the grass. It’s now pulled in crooked - will have to straighten before I jack it up. Will post picks once I have.
 

Brett Proctor

Well-known member
Be thankful that it broke now and not while driving it.

Kind of makes you think what else has reached its life expectancy

From experience if your going to rewire the car, its a lot easier to do it with the body off of the chassis.
Having the body up in the air makes it easier to wire under the dash and other places that are difficult to get to.
 
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