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Sterling #130 (aka American V8 ~ Chapter 2)

nbb350

Member
Getting closer...
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I epoxied the body on Tuesday afternoon, then sprayed 2k filler over the bad spots (a.k.a. MOST of it!) on Wednesday. Thursday I hand sanded down the body with 320 grit and dabbed a little red putty on a few spots. Today I'll sand down the red putty spots, clean the paint booth floor, wipe the car down with prep cleaner, and later spray another coat of epoxy. Tomorrow's plan is to spray green and clear. Then everything can sit and cure for a few weeks until I have to tear down the paint booth to make room for my truck before the snow flies!
 

nbb350

Member
So...I wasn't anywhere near 100% happy with the results of the clear coat I sprayed on Sunday (*), so I scuffed it up and laid 2 more coats yesterday with a 1.3mm tip instead of 1.5mm tip. Also bumped up the air pressure for better atomization. Still not 100%, but definitely above 80% satisfaction now! Good enough for my first paint job ever! lol

As I was showing the clear coat to a neighbor who stopped by, I mentioned that I would probably have to wait until spring to wet sand. He asked "why? you have a heated shop and it's not like you want a hose with a metal end anywhere near your new paint." Hmmmm...damn good points! a plastic water bottle with a nice soft NON-PAINT-SCRATCHING tip would do fine! I can just mop up the water later...
And not like there's a winter trip on the horizon this year...

* the epoxy, 2k filler and base color all sprayed on wonderfully - it was just the clear coat that made a foggy mess and tons of dusty and clumpy overspray. Same manufacturer for all my layers...same gun. Oh well...live and learn...
 

ratrog64

Active member
The longer you wait to cut and buff that clear coat the harder it will be. It should normally be done after 24 to 36 hours while it is still soft. After a few days it will be as hard as a rock to wet sand.

Looks great btw. That green really pops!
 

nbb350

Member
maybe tomorrow...they're talking a heat wave again. we might see low 50s! brrrrr.... :cool:
but first i need to air out the shop. right now my throat starts itching after a minute in there!
 

Peter

Active member
The longer you wait to cut and buff that clear coat the harder it will be. It should normally be done after 24 to 36 hours while it is still soft. After a few days it will be as hard as a rock to wet sand.

Looks great btw. That green really pops!

Quite right, a sod when hard, I did a Norton Dominator frame in purple flack many years ago and left the clear coat a week, took another week to rub it down.

Fab color though very nice, I would more than happy with anything close to that.
 

nbb350

Member
Well, nothing much new to report. Got a shifter knob and an AutoMeter fuel sender adapter for xmas. Same brand as my gauges and it appears to have a preset for VW fuel tank senders.

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On the painting front I have to vent: I HATE what the clear coat did to my car!!! The epoxy primer went on great. The green paint went on great; it was smooth and glossy and looked "finished" in my opinion. But everything I read online (and the manufacturer) said to put on a clear coat. That clear coat fucked up everything. I ended up laying FIVE coats on the body. I tried something different with every coat: different air pressure settings, different gun settings, different gun tip sizes, different amounts of reducer...nothing made that goddamn clear coat flow out nicely (at 72F). The whole car has texture of an orange(peel).

Now I HAVE to wet sand the entire car. Again. The green paint looked great and was 20% cheaper than that fucking clear coat. I should have ignored the internet and skipped the clear coat. Worst part is that there are parts of the car that I can NOT sand - like under the hood where I rebuilt the tub out of sheet aluminum with aluminum rivets. I can't sand that because I would end up just sanding all the paint off the rivet heads - and that area is where it needs sanding the most. the clear coat in there is almost FUZZY from overspray. neither the primer nor paint had any issues laying down nice in there - just the damn clear coat. the damn EXPENSIVE clear coat.

So...now every time I go out to the shop and look at the car sitting there, I just want to take a belt sander to the damn thing...or a match. :mad:
 

ratrog64

Active member
Was the green paint a single stage paint or a base coat paint?

Wet sanding can be fun!!!

A lot of your wet sanding can be done with pneumatic da with a transition pad under the paper. Go easy and stay away from the edges. Depending on how bad the orange peel is choose the paper carefully. 5 coats is a lot of material. Most mfg's don't recommend more then 3 wet coats. But that might be good for you and less of a chance of a break through.

Under the hood is a real bitch. Problem there is all the air pressure wanting to accumulate inside the bowl and blowing back in your face as you paint. That's why a want to paint that area first, its so easy to screw up.

Don't loose hope, you will get it sorted out and it will look great.
 

letterman7

Honorary Admin
Clears, generally speaking, don't flow out well. What you have is expected and that's where the cut and buff come in. I won't cut a clear coat until months later when it's totally cured and hard - it's more difficult to screw it up :) With 5 coats, you have plenty to work with. Under the hood... don't sweat the small stuff. If it looks "fuzzy", so what? Cover it with something decorative if it really bothers you. From what I see in the photos above, it looks pretty damn good!
 

farfegnubbin

Site Owner
Staff member
That's a shame. The seat itself looks great.

Yep, I never tried that exact seat but I've tried a bunch. It's almost always the width that trips them up. On my blue car, the widest I could get away with was just shy of 21"...which is just about impossible to find.

The way your floorboards are lowered it looks like you have even less space. My dropped pan goes all the way out to the body flange. It looks like yours are a bit more inboard of that (like many were) but maybe it's just an illusion due to the felt. With that felt in place, what is your maximum width at the bottom of that seat well? (just curious)
 

nbb350

Member
Yeah, I think it's about 21" between the tunnel and sidewall, but I only have about 16" width in my 4" drop pans. I had already cut a pair of old bucket seats down the middle and taken 4" out of them, but I have to cover them with universal seat covers, so they'll never look as nice as these seats.

I took a chance on the seat hoping that the 14.9" in the photo was actually measured at the bottom - nope. It was measured where your butt rests. And that's just the width of the actual seat cushion - there is a small gap between the cushion and the "side flares", so the seat is actually almost 22" wide at the top and 16" wide at the bottom. The dimension between the plastic caps over the recline/hinge mechanism is 20.5", so there might be hope for someone withOUT drop pans.
 

farfegnubbin

Site Owner
Staff member
With those dimensions they provided, I can totally understand taking that gamble. It seems like that seat should have nestled down into the seatwell a little better. Yep; been there, done that. For myself, I've honestly almost stopped looking for prefab seats for the time being. I'm either going to try to make a good looking custom seat (easier said than done) or, well, I have some other fun things in the works for the car. ;)
 

nbb350

Member
Well, we had a nice warm weekend and I managed to get some wet-sanding time invested around all the Easter gatherings. 500, 1000, 1200...BeerThirty. It still needs more though.
I stopped at the local body shop supplier the next day and bought some 2000 & 3000 grit paper and a 3M buffing kit with the "white" and "black" pads/compound.
But now the temps have dropped back down and we're back in the 50s & 60s...too cold to stand in the driveway in old swim trunks getting soaked! lol

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nbb350

Member
Nice warm weekend here (87F on Saturday!) so I spent it outside working on the paint. Got the hood buffed out (two rounds each 3M white then black), saw some hazing and did it all again.
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Then I started on the canopy. 1000-500spots-1000-2000-3000... then two rounds each 3M white then black. washed and dried it...and saw a ton of scratch marks all over the top of the roof. ugh...looked fine when wet. back to 1000 or 2000 next time it's warm i guess. two steps forward, one step back.
 

nbb350

Member
oh yeah...and i burned thru on a couple edges. eff it... i'll hit them with a touch-up brush after everything is assembled.
 

nbb350

Member
went over the canopy again this weekend. 4 rounds of 1000 grit, 4 rounds of 2000, 4 rounds of 3000...then 4 rounds of 3M white/black buffing. still some scratches...must be under the paint. dammit.
canopy, hood, taillight housing, and side mirrors are done and covered by an old flannel bed sheet.

then i started on the body. ugh...got the nose and headlight buckets done with 1000 grit before calling it a day and relaxing with a frozen pizza and a beer. the area under the hood where the overspray texture is the worst is a total write-off - no way to sand that with all the rivet heads.
 
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