What's new

Sterling #130 (aka American V8 ~ Chapter 2)

nbb350

Active member
Last night I was thinking about Pipe/Tubing vs Hose and went "full circle" in my logic. Sunday I drove around and tried to find a radiator hose with specific dimensions to make the "dogleg jog" from the current copper pipe to the radiator hose connection. No luck. Too big, too small, too short. I didn't want to make something out of multiple sections because I view every connection as A Future Leak Waiting To Happen At The Worst Possible Moment. A hose would eliminate the dogleg with two flares...but using a "longer short" hose with a pipe would make the pipe too short to meet the requried mounting location. UGH! So I'm back to full-length hose...or spending as much on a special-order dogleg hose as I would on full-length hose.
 

nbb350

Active member
Just to let everyone know
Pipes are measure on the inside diameter and tubing is measured on the outside diameter

So, a 1.5"diameter pipe has a 1.5" inside diameter, while 1.5" diameter tubing with a 0.125 wall thickness has a 1.25 inside diameter. (I screwed up the calcs in the previous post)
Also, Tubing is designed to "telescope", so a 1.25" tube should fit inside a 1.5" tube with 1/8" walls. or a 1" tube would fit inside a 1.5" tube with 1/4" walls.
 

nbb350

Active member
I ordered some 1.5" silicone radiator hose from Fleabay (only place that carried it for a reasonable price), some aluminum couplers and 90d bends from Amazon, and a dogleg hose from AutoZone. Then I bought some 1.5x1.5x1/8 angle and build myself a "ladder cradle" for the radiator and AC hoses. Everything went together suprisingly well - knock on wood! I added back 2.5 gallons of the 4.5 gallons that drained out of it (captured and double filtered back into the original coolant jugs) before the filler neck backed up and I had to wait for the air bubbles to clear. I would have turned on the coolant pump, but when I connected the battery, the car alarm started sounding like an epileptic seal and refused to shut off! So I hooked up the battery charger overnight and I'll try the pump again later with a full charge.
 

Attachments

  • 20240825_162819.jpg
    20240825_162819.jpg
    328.7 KB · Views: 70
  • 20240830_131314.jpg
    20240830_131314.jpg
    304.7 KB · Views: 55
  • 20240830_141539.jpg
    20240830_141539.jpg
    218.6 KB · Views: 63
  • 20240830_142114.jpg
    20240830_142114.jpg
    268.9 KB · Views: 67
  • 20240830_165429.jpg
    20240830_165429.jpg
    459.3 KB · Views: 67

nbb350

Active member
Once the battery had a full charge, the alarm and water pump behaved normally. I've been dealing with a nasty summer cold/allergies (had it the same time last summer, so I know it's environmentally-related), so Labor Day weekend was spent sitting on the porch in a Benadryl-haze with a book and box of kleenex - no work on the car! But later this past week when I was off the B-train, I got another 1.5 gallons into the car, then took it for a spin down the cul-de-sac: up, down, left, right, forward, backward...work ALL the air pockets out of the system! Now all I have left over is about 1 cup of coolant...yay!

Friday after work I swapped out the "over torqued" wheel adapters (other thread) with the new EMPI ones I ordered. The old ones didn't "look" bad, but I knew at least two of the pressed in studs were spinning slightly.

Yesterday I summoned up the courage to pull the windshield crate out of the corner of the shop and unbox it - will it have de-laminated or cracked over the years? it's been moved from a garage to a storage unit to my shop and then shifted all around the shop for the last dozen years. Will any of those moves have damaged it??? Nope! I can build a Great Crate! lol Now I just need to find a glass installer willing to do the work - Safelite shooed me out the door pretty quick yesterday! Gotta find a small local shop, not some national chain, I guess. I put a few feeler emails out, hopefully they'll get back to me Monday.

I also installed the canopy inside trim and the last interior panel yesterday. I tested the 20 year old radio - it plays music! And I set up the rear-view-camera display. One problem with that though: it's so close to my eyes that I can't clearly focus on it - I entered the "reader glasses" age since blocking off my rear window. (heck, I've upgraded to +1.00 safety glasses in the shop so I can see what I'm doing!!)

Lastly, I commissioned a local caricature artist to draw my car to put on the top of a small car show sign. All the online sites put actual pictures of the car on the sign, but I don't see the point: the sign is usually leaning AGAINST the actual car, so WHY? This is just funny...
 

Attachments

  • crate.jpg
    crate.jpg
    552 KB · Views: 63
  • 1975 Sterling-Color-02.jpg
    1975 Sterling-Color-02.jpg
    4 MB · Views: 62

nbb350

Active member
I have a windshield! It only took SEVEN attempts to find someone willing to install it...the major players didn't want to touch it due to "liability concerns". I finally found a kid who had 7 years experience, but had just started his own company 5 months ago, so he was looking for work for his portfolio. He also thought the car was the coolest thing he'd ever seen! lol

1726322927067.png
 

nbb350

Active member
Well, the plan for this morning was to head to a local church for my first car show. Too bad my battery decided it would rather "sleep in" this morning. So I missed that show while the battery trickle charged...
I never got a green light on the charger, but by 4:30 I decided to give it a shot and try to make it to the big local "last show of the season". Thankfully 5 hours on the charger was enough, so I took her for a [pointless] trip to calibrate the speedometer (it didn't work - it jumps all over the place), fill the tank with non-oxy gas, then off to the show! My wife followed me in her Jeep - ready to pick me up and take me home so I could return with the truck and trailer if it broke down...but it didn't (barely). She also snapped a few pics of how SMALL the Sterling is compared to all the trucks and SUVs on the road with me!

I drew quite a crowd, but my sign (not pictured) kept the basic questions to a minimum. I basically just watched people OOOH and AHHH. lol

A few things I learned on my drive: the temp got up to 210F, even with a 160F thermostat. Hmmm...that's a block temp though, so not terrible. And she didn't drip one single drop of coolant! Too bad the same can't be said for oil; she left a few little drip spots wherever she rested. Oh well, oil is cheap! Also, the oil pressure gauge, fuel gauge and speedometer don't work properly. The damn fuel gauge worked perfectly on the bench (with it's $$ AutoMeter Fuel Bridge installed), but just sits above E in the car - both before and after adding 5.6 gallons of gas at the pump. Volts, Tach, and Coolant Temp seem to work fine though. I know the Volt gauge works because after I smelled the burning rubber at a stop light and then watched the ALTERNATOR light come on when I accelerated, I knew I'd lost my alternator belt and the Volt gauge suddenly dropped from 14 to 12, then slowly dropped to 6 volts over the next 5 miles of driving - but I MADE IT HOME! yay! Another problem for another day though...tonight is all about relaxing and letting my "clutch knee" and "Sterling neck" heal...OUCH! Not a car suited for someone pushing 50...
 

Attachments

  • small.jpg
    small.jpg
    140.8 KB · Views: 71
  • crowd.jpg
    crowd.jpg
    592.9 KB · Views: 72
  • classics.jpg
    classics.jpg
    82.8 KB · Views: 74
  • belt.jpg
    belt.jpg
    369.7 KB · Views: 73

vpogv

Active member
Problems aside I would take today as a win! Love the progress and can't wait to I hear the updates on what's fixed next.
 

farfegnubbin

Site Owner
Staff member
That’s a great update. And all seems very familiar (…says a person who has experienced clutch knee and Sterling neck many dozens of times.) 😄
 

nbb350

Active member
I replaced the alternator belt (thank you Amazon!) and re-set the AC pump belt (not that the system is charged at all). The damn AC belt will NOT stay on! I think it must be an alignment issue - that belt is a 5-rib serpentine belt, so it doesn't take much to get it to jump off that "shallow" pulley. oh well...

I also took the speedo cable out and inspected it. It didn't seem to be binding at all, but I oiled it anyways. Then I reinstalled it, made sure it was engaging the wheel hub cap and then noticed that it wasn't engaging the digital sender very well. A little tweaking got that fixed and now it seems to be reading more "smoothly" - but not necessarily more Accurately. I'll have to re-perform the calibration drive to do that...which was going to happen today after the local car show, BUT the engine decided to start leaking coolant from somewhere between the intake manifold and the valley pan. Awesome...it's a slow leak, but it's still new and will probably be VERY DIFFICULT to get to with the Sterling rear bodywork. Sigh...
 

nbb350

Active member
Slow morning at work so I'll post an update...

I just reached in with a nut driver and tightened a few hose clamps and that seemed to fix the coolant leak issue on the valley pan (knock on wood!). I also "hot wired" (is that the correct term when we're talking about a GROUND wire though?!? :LOL: ) the cooling fan to run with the ignition. I'm not sure the thermostatic switch is closing correctly, so I pulled the ground trigger wire off the switch and connected it directly to a ground lead (same ground lead that grounds the radiator, so I know the thermostatic switch is seeing a Good Ground - and not just thru the coolant). Now when I start the car I have a "cold defrost" wind blowing up from under the hood, below the canopy, and into my eyes! lol And now my guage temps are much better!

Two weeks ago my buddy drove over an hour to see the car; he's been following my progress over the years and really wanted to SEE it. I did him one better and took him for a 10 minute ride! As the canopy closed on us, he commented "it seems really...um..." "COFFIN-LIKE?" I finished for him! lol Thankfully nothing broke on that drive!

Later that week I noticed that the AX16 alternator belt had stretched out a bit, so I took the tensioning arm off, milled a longer slot in it and reinstalled it along with an AX15 belt. Now that is a TIGHT FIT! And if it loosens at all, the alternator body will hit the tensioning arm well before it becomes loose enough for the belt to slip, so it is sorta "mechanically tensioned".

Last Friday I took the car out for another Speedometer Calibration Run...with no resulting change to the speedometer's function. Dammit. That means it's either the Sender or the Speedometer. I need to google and find out if there is way to either read the Sender output, or give the Speedo a "false test input" to check it's function. If I can verify the Speedo gauge is Good, then I can ask Santa for a GPS sender unit ($45 for no-name Amazon model, $112 for a Summit model, $250 for Auto-Meter model). Until then, I'll just use the GPS Speedo app on my phone!

This past weekend was the Last Chance for local car shows. Too bad Mother Nature couldn't make up her mind about the weather though. Friday night I hooked up the Timpte Trailer to my Truck so I could load the Sterling in the morning and haul it to a car show an hour away (no chance I'm driving that far/long - my neck wouldn't last!). Saturday morning we woke up to a gray sky that started leaking...good thing I didn't load the car Friday night! Sunday was dry, but temps were in the 40s and windy with 40mph gusts. No thanks - I don't even want to be outside in that. Sigh...time to start preparing for my winter hibernation mode...

and here is my sign. My wife suggested I add a "before" pic to the white area...good idea! right now the sign is just an 11x17 printout from my office color printer in a $5 Hobby Lobby frame, so easy to change and replace.
1729251054404.png
 

nbb350

Active member
Yesterday morning I decided to take a ride over to a buddy's house to show him the car. Maybe 10 miles round trip. I've had the Sterling on a charger since the last time I drove it, and she started right up in the garage. At his house I shut it off, then when I went to restart it to take him for a ride, she started REAL slowly...hmmm...not good. After his short ride around the neighborhood, I didn't want to risk shutting it off and not starting again, so I left it running. Unfortunately that thought wasn't recorded to my brain's short term memory because when I got to within about 1/2 mile of home, I decided "I should try running the speedometer calibration loop again" - which requires a shut down and restart (while holding the odometer button). Yep, you guessed it - she wouldn't restart in the parking lot I had pulled over in. Barely even tried to crank... Thankfully I was close to home, so I called my wife to bring the jumper cables.

While she was on her way, I contemplated my next steps: I'm sitting in the car with a fairly dead battery and my canopy is electrically powered. Once the canopy is up, I cannot open the hood to access my battery to jump start it since the canopy/hood overlap. Do I have enough battery left to open the canopy, get out, then close the canopy? Hmmm...best not to risk it. Time to summon my Inner Duke Boy and crawl out the window! I have to say, that went WAY EASIER than expected! lol I scooted my butt over to the passenger seat, then moved my legs over to the driver's seat, then head & shoulders out the window, followed by the rest of me until I was sitting on the window ledge. THen I just pulled one leg out and stood up! yay! (of course, there is NO WAY I could have done this 6 months ago before I started going for acupuncture for my back!!!) After that it was a straightforward jumpstart and drive home.

Now, WHY isn't the battery holding a charge? The Braille AGM battery is just over 3 years old (the 3 year warranty expired in August! ugh!) and the Alternator is...wow...built sometime between 1986 and 1999 based on my internet sleuthing. It's a one-wire GM CS-type alternator. I have the LAMP wire connected to my dash, but it still has a v-belt. And I don't remember if it came with the car when I bought it in 2006, or if I "upgraded" to something newer that was in my Dad's "shop shelf inventory" (which could have been sitting there since the 1980's!!). That might be the best place for me to start - replace the at-least-20-year-old alternator! lol

And while I'm looking, it appears that there are special "low rpm" alternators (Tuff Stuff) for better charging at "idle speeds". Why is this important to me? Well, with my Jackshaft System, I don't have the typcial "big crankshaft pulley". In fact, my chain drive from crank to jackshaft is only a 18-tooth to 16-tooth setup (all that will fit in the jackshaft casting). so that's only a 12.5% overdrive instead of the GM "standard" of 250% to 300% overdrive. Damn...that could be the problem right there! My alternator may not even be TRYING to charge unless I'm up at 3000 rpm! Which isn't often...

Time to pull the old alternator and verify case measurements before buying a new alternator...
 

Brett Proctor

Well-known member
If you have a multimeter you can do several tests to check the condition of the battery, charging system, and check for parasitic draw.

I had 2 AGM batteries ( Optima) and both went bad after they had a deep cycle incident. At one time I was disconnecting the ground strap to try and keep it to hold a charge. Eventually it had a total failure and when tested it had only 5 volts in it and wouldn't take a charge.

I read somewhere that deep cycling a AGM battery is not good.
 
Last edited:

nbb350

Active member
Well, based on the Date Code on my alternator, it was built in the 20th week of 1997! :eek: Time for a new one! So I bit the bullet and bought a direct replacement for 3x the cost and 2x the wait. Why? Because then I won't have to modify my belts/pulleys/bracket to make the "Universal Fit" model work and tension. Sigh...95% of the GM alternators out there have a 6.6" bracket dimension, but the CS144 has a 7.2" dimension. I'm already using an AX15 belt and I can't find anything smaller - which is what would be required to make an alternator with 1.2" (7.2-6.6 X2) less belt length work.
 

nbb350

Active member
So....that "direct fit" alternator still required modifying the tensioning arm (due to a change in pulley size and therefore belt tension) and fabricating two new wires (4ga + from the starter and 8ga - to the engine block). And then I took it for a spin. Meh...volt gauge says ~11 volts at idle and ~14 volts at 2000+rpm. So NO real change. And after a 4 mile (15 minute) drive around the neighborhood (making sure to keep it above 2000rpm for most of the drive), I backed it into the Shop, turned it off, waited a few minutes and tried restarting it. Nope, not a chance. Wouldn't even turn over once.

Starter? Looks nice and clean, but came with the car, so it's at least 18 years old.
Battery? just over 3 years old, but it's a Braille B2317 AGM, so it's not your normal battery. I don't have much height to work with under the hood either, so I can't just slap a regular/nice/cheap/$90 car battery in there. Anything over 4"-5" tall will obstruct the radiator airflow - not good! Odyssey PC925 might be an option. I also have an email into Braille, but I'm guessing they'll say I just need to buy a new battery.
 
Top