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rust proofing with por-15

killnjuggalo

New member
I was wondering if anyone knew of any other products thats cheaper than por-15. its good but pretty expensive. ill buy it and use it if nobody knows of any other brand to use. i used it on the floors of my bradley, inside and out, and the gas tank. they also make a "hardnose paint" i have not used it yet but its supposed to make it to where the nose of the car wont chip due to road debris. the por-15 rust proof is abour 150 a gallon, and the hardnose paint is roughly 250 a gallon. only way i know of purchasing is from por15.com
 

letterman7

Honorary Admin
Eastwood Company makes several 'rustproofing / rust stopping' products, though I can't vouch for any of them. The regime I follow (usually) for my cars is a thorough cleaning with a wire brush and sandpaper to get rid of all the surface rust, then followed up by 3 or 4 coats of RustOleums' galvanized metal primer, then 3 or 4 coats of my choice of RustOleum topcoats. I've found the galvanized primer is pretty good at catching the little scratches that inevitably happen. On my last dune buggy, I sprayed industrial bedliner over the entire pan and parts of the suspension that didn't move - top and bottom. A little overkill, but looked right on the buggy!
 

thestevie

Member
I read about something called carwell. It's what the military uses as their rust stop.
Apparently its the end-all for rust. Don't know how much it is though.carwell
 

Nic

Active member
John Deere has a line of paints that might help in the protection area. They are intended for farm equipment, which can get dinged pretty easily. I haven't researched it, but its a thought.
 

RangerBEH

Member
I was going to ask this same question I've seen that a few of you have stripped and painted your chassis and I wanted to find out what your using. I've seen some of you using a silver primer and black top coat.

What's the cost effective way to go?

The reason I'm asking is I think I'm going to need to remove the body of 470 and once I do that it will stay off until everything is done right. There is some rust but mainly I want to strip and paint everything and it will give me a clean slate or run new electrical, brakes and get the suspension and drive train all set up then drop the body back on after paint.

I do this to myself...... One day I'll have a driving car
 

RangerBEH

Member
I found por15 topcoat that says it can go over the rust preventive paint and old paint. Anyone have experience with this?

POR-15 Top Coat Gloss Black 13713

Other important question is a quart enough to do the chassis? If not will a gallon keep for a few years so I can use it on the Sebring when I get to it?
 

letterman7

Honorary Admin
I've used POR sporadically in the past. Usually I'll have the metal down bare to put the POR on. Think of it this way - Putting POR over existing paint is only as much protection as the existing paint. If it peels, the POR peels.
 

letterman7

Honorary Admin
If the paint isn't coming off the chassis (like the frame horns), go ahead and paint with the POR. Or not. It won't hurt anything. Seam sealer is nice to keep the moisture out from below, though you'll want to do both sides of the seam, or at least from the "outside" side.

As for application.. you could stretch a quart with a spray gun if you did the entire chassis. You'll need to thin it a little to spray anyway.
 

vpogv

Active member
I have never had good experience with PO15. I used Masterseries CT (MasterSeriesCT Coating Line Rust Prevention - MasterSeriesCT) on the entire chassis. I had the entire thing sandblasted then applied 2 coats of Masterseries followed by Eastwood brush on seam sealer then black rustoleum for color. The bottom got 2-3 coats of truck bed coating.

All that being said it's not on the road yet so I can't say how it holds up to driving. However, 5 years in the garage and it's holding up great! *laugh*
 

Windgods2015

New member
Used Por 15 on frame, inside the tunnel and outside, the recommended process, cleaner degreaser and metal prep.

Gray first coat, then silver top coat that is UV resistant.

Easy to paint, recommend foam brushes. For the tunnel and insides, I poured in then rotated the frame rotisserie 360 for even coverage and foam brush on long stick. Cures fast at 70-80 F, seems strong.

Not as pretty as powder coat, no shops around my area do complete frames.

Purely functional, not showcase by any means, but who sees the frame when it's done?

Getting there, will post pics.
 
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