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Ray's CCC #S068 Build

vpogv

Active member
Again?????? You mean you had some and removed them???????

The dash clips make it so easy during mock up. I've had the dash in and out 30 times already. Once its in for good a couple of screws keep it in place so it won't be able to lift up.

Hah, no I looked at them years ago and decided to hold off. That's all.
 

Brett Proctor

Well-known member
Kind of like your solution for the linear actuator issue.

I have an electric actuator out of a convertible Eclipse that I have doubts of its lifting force and I'm thinking of doing something similar but the actuator will be hidden in the body.


Don't really care for the gas filler setup. I think a cleaner install can be done.
I found a gas filler door out of a Jaguar that looks good on the car and a filler pipe from a 2003 Mustang fits nice under the lid with no clearance issues.
 

ratrog64

Well-known member
Kind of like your solution for the linear actuator issue.

I have an electric actuator out of a convertible Eclipse that I have doubts of its lifting force and I'm thinking of doing something similar but the actuator will be hidden in the body.


Don't really care for the gas filler setup. I think a cleaner install can be done.
I found a gas filler door out of a Jaguar that looks good on the car and a filler pipe from a 2003 Mustang fits nice under the lid with no clearance issues.

I've always like the fuel fill on the Cobras and was going for a similar look. Each his own on that one for sure like all the mods we do to our cars.

Only problem I found with the strut assist on the actuator is that the struts want to lift the top a little when its closed. I'm still working on it.

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Brett Proctor

Well-known member
I've always like the fuel fill on the Cobras and was going for a similar look. Each his own on that one for sure like all the mods we do to our cars.

Only problem I found with the strut assist on the actuator is that the struts want to lift the top a little when its closed. I'm still working on it.

View attachment 8534


Kind of figured thats what the case was here but sometimes what looks good on one car doesn't look good on another, but if your happy with it, go for it*thumbs up*

As far as the struts go if the linear actuators have enough force to lift the canopy by them self then the struts need just enough force to keep the canopy up, which could be half the lifting force of the actuators and that would solve the issue with the canopy lifting when closed
 

sector

Active member
I do like your external gas cap. I had something similar on my Cimbria.
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I will either reuse it or use the same one I have on my 2015 Challenger.
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About the topic of actuators, has anyone looked into using one from Mitsubishi 3000gt spider (convertible hard top). Those had to be some strong units in order to lift that steel roof.
 

ratrog64

Well-known member
Repairs

Time has been spent mostly patching holes in the body tub. Making good progress and hope to have it all done soon.

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ratrog64

Well-known member
Thanks! Dog days of summer. Hot as hell in the shop, sweating like a dog and grinding fiberglass! *insane*
 

ratrog64

Well-known member
A little more progress over the weekend. Got the under nose section bonded to the body tub and started to glass over the seam. This is a new piece that I built several months ago. It has been modified so it does not extend under the front beam and chassis head area. This allows for the piece to be permanently installed and still allows for the body to be removed. I took advantage of having the car up on the saw horses so I didn't have to do it laying on the ground at a later date.

I also started to recess in the side marker lights. I'm using the same markers that were used on the #114 car. Recessed in makes them more subtle and the rounded shape makes them visible from the front and rear of the car.

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ratrog64

Well-known member
Engine Cover

Ray and I have been doing lots and lots of body work and sanding. Trying to get everything dialed in.

Today, to take a break from the mundane stuff, we decided to install the new Carbs so we could figure out what we needed to cut. After cutting the body some to clear the air filters we did a test fit of the new engine cover. Unfortunately it hit the left air filter a little. Since I have been wanting to do a redesign of the engine cover anyway, we dove right in.

One side down and one to go.

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B57-1974

Member
I was very happy to see you glassing in the front headlight holes. In my humble opinion, the only thing wrong with the original Sterling design was the "bug eye" headlights.
 

ratrog64

Well-known member
Engine Cover II

Finished up the engine cover today. Last step will be spraying it out with Duratech and getting it blocked out, polished and ready for mold making.

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I am going to glass in a raised lip around the area of the cut out to keep water from getting on the air cleaners.

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If anyone were interested in seeing how it was shaped, I could make a small tutorial.
 

ratrog64

Well-known member
Progress Continues

Body work continues and we are getting close to finished.
The two top scoops got molded in and the hood and side pod scoops will be screwed on like on the 114 car. Filled in a bunch of little holes and fixed numerous chips and air pockets in the gel coat. I have blocked out most of the body (gel coat) with #80 grit to remove many many imperfections. Many of which were from bad sanding / paint removal 2 owners or more ago. The entire body will be sprayed with duratech and blocked again prior to prime and paint.

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No bad damage at home or shop from Irma and fortunately flooding wasn't an issue in either place as well. I was sweating bullets with the predictions and thought #114 car might not fair so well. Really dodged a bullet this time! *thumbs up*
 

B57-1974

Member
Knowing that you are in Florida, I was thinking about you as we watched the news. Good to know that you got through it OK.
 
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