What's new

Ray's CCC #S068 Build

ratrog64

Well-known member
This is the build of car #S068.
Builder ratrog64
Owner Ray G

First the back story.

On 12/04/16 frodoz737 posted a link to a Craigslist ad for a project car for sale in Virginia.
THANKS frodoz737 !

I promptly called the owner and negotiated a deal. Why? I just don't know. That's the problem with this sickness.

On 12/09/16 I began the 1100 mile journey north from Florida to pick up the car. 4 days and 2200 miles later the car was in Florida.

With no idea why I bought another Sterling or what I was going to do with it, I unloaded it on the side yard of my shop/house (house next to my residence I bought to use as a garage).

On 2/26/17 letterman7 sent me a PM about a visitor to the site in my area who was looking to purchase a car.
THANKS letterman7 !

After an email exchange and a phone call I invited Ray over to check out my Sterlings. With the #114 car close to completion I figured he can at least sit in one to help decide if it were a car for him. I told him both the #114 and #068 cars were for sale.

A week or so later Ray and his lady came by to check them out.

to be continued....
 

ratrog64

Well-known member
continued ....

After a couple of hours of chatting and checking out the cars Ray and Renee decided on the #068 car project.

They also agreed to hire me to do a few things like relocate the shifter, build a few fiberglass parts etc. I would also store the car at my place while the work was being completed.

Ray is no stranger to VW's. Ray worked for VW back in the 70's as a mechanic and has owned a VW Dune Buggy for 30+ years.

Work on the chassis started the last weekend in March 2017 with Rays help at my shop in Holiday Florida.

This builders journal will highlight major progress during the build.
 
Last edited:

ratrog64

Well-known member
Rolling Chassis

Over the past few weeks Ray and I have worked on the chassis getting it to roller status.

Relocated the shifter and shortened the shift rod. New bushing and coupler installed.

Shortened the ebrake handle and installed new cables.

All new Ghia spindles, bearings, rotors, calipers and front disc brakes. New stainless hoses and new hard lines. New master cylinder, reservoir and brake switches. Ball joints, tie rods and rod ends all new. New rag joint, steering stabilizer and shocks.

New rear bushings, adjustable spring plates and CV boots. All new rear brakes, springs, wheel cylinder, hard lines and stainless hoses.

New motor mounts front and rear and new ground strap. Clutch and accelerator cables are also new.

Throw out bearing, clutch and pressure plate are also new.

The motor is all new and was built for a buggy project that is still under way. We will switch out a few things on the motor and make it work for the Sterling (carb, exhaust etc.)

New BFG tires and American Racing wheels.

20170422_141834_resized.jpg

20170422_141756_resized.jpg

20170422_141817_resized.jpg

20170422_141822_resized.jpg

20170422_141807_resized.jpg

20170422_141802_resized.jpg

20170422_141751_resized.jpg
 
Last edited:

ratrog64

Well-known member
Body & Mods

Got the body fitted to the chassis last weekend. None of the holes lined up but I got it where it belongs now. Body is temporarily secured with a few self tappers and big washers. Got the the dash fitted in place with the roof on and the dash brackets drilled, polished and hung to support the dash. Center console is trimmed and positioned and through bolted to the dash.

I'm using the old roof section off the #114 car since I have the windshield out and the T=top cut outs make entry and exit easy.

We also cut all the filer plugs to do the repairs to the numerous holes in the interior tub.

42.jpg

43.jpg

44.jpg

45.jpg
 

ratrog64

Well-known member
Body & Mods

Mock up continues with trimming up and fitting the new rear valance. Got the rear openings cut out for the new rear mesh and the tag holder trimmed and fitted. Ray chose to do the same design as the #114 car. We also got the 2 side pods fitted and trimmed to fit with the drop pans. The prior build did not have the drop pans and I think it was originally on a swing axle chassis.

Cut out under the front hood behind the condenser shroud. Fit the rear spoiler and rear window visor. Got the new side pockets trimmed up and new holes cut in the body tub. We also got all the body plugs secured and ready to be glassed in.

So nice working will all my new parts for this build. Making quick progress since it is all so familiar from doing the #114 car. Ray has been coming down on Saturdays to assist on the mock up.

46.jpg

47.jpg

48.jpg

50.jpg

51.jpg
 

ratrog64

Well-known member
We got Ray's new steering column made and fitted today. Going to work very nicely.
Nice new steering wheel with yellow stitch accent and a quick disconnect.

64.jpg

65.jpg

66.jpg

We also got the hood trimmed up and fitted with the new stainless rod/hinge.

Got the hood latch and latch bracket installed. Still need to install the hood adjusters on both sides like I did on the #114 car.

68.jpg

76.jpg

81.jpg
 

ratrog64

Well-known member
New engine lid from the new Sterling Guys. They did a pretty nice job on it.

Also installed the ground effects today. My opinion is that the ground effects make the single most important change to the exterior of the car. For me it takes the car from a 70's looking kit car to a more modern example of a "Superish" looking exotic.

Next week after we take the body back off for some trimming and repairs we will might get the suspension lowered to where it should be.

69.jpg

72.jpg

74.jpg
 
Last edited:

islandman

Member
Do you have any shots of those ground effects off the car?

How do they attach?


BTW, some fast work going on with this build, as you say having fitting parts you are not making from scratch makes the world of difference.
 

ratrog64

Well-known member
The ground effects are similar to those sold on the old Sterling site. I bought a pair, made them a little longer and made a mold of them so I could make another set for the #310 car. I'll post a photo if I can fin one of them.

They attach to the bottom of the lower side panels with screws or bolts. Right now these were attached with some big self tapping drill point sheet metal screws. I will through bolt them for a more permanent installation after they are painted.

I would guess they will be available again soon from the new Sterling owners.
 
Last edited:

ratrog64

Well-known member
Thanks, why is it they needed to be longer?

I made my original pair a little longer (about an inch) but that was mostly due to how I originally installed them. Once I figured out how and where they should go I realized the originals were actually ok as is. The fit is a little weird and its not real evident how / where they mount. There are no real reference points to follow. Its more what looks good / right.
 

ratrog64

Well-known member
Canopy

Well another long day in the shop working on the canopy.

I ordered up a pair of gas struts (thanks for the link Brett) to assist the electric actuators. Over all it works very good. The top goes up real quick and stays up! The only problem I have is when closed, the strut tries to lift the canopy just a little. Both offer 80lbs of lift force which I may try to half and see how that works. $50 a pair shipped is not bad considering.

On the plus side if the electric actuator failed, you could lift the top manually with the assistance of the gas strut because its able to wind the motor with a little extra help. If the actuators only had a brake this would be near perfect set up. Motors are nice and quite compared to a hydraulic pump, can hardly hear them run.

I know these cars originally had latches inside to overcome the lift problem caused by the strut or springs these cars came with. I'd like to avoid that option if possible. I also know that once I have the added weight of the windshield and the struts get a little age to them it might all be perfect anyway.

Chalk it up to R&D Sterling Style.

20170527_171515_resized.jpg

20170527_171528_resized.jpg

20170527_171600_resized.jpg

20170527_171651_resized.jpg
 
Last edited:

ratrog64

Well-known member
Ground Effects

Just a few photos of the ground effects attached to the side pod. I just used self tapping screws initially that will be replaced with a nut and bolt later.

Its kind of odd how they fit and as you can see, you have to eyeball where they go. There is nothing to follow for placement. That's what threw me off the first time I installed a set.

95.jpg

96.jpg

97.jpg
 

ratrog64

Well-known member
Rear Shelf

We decided to do a rear shelf in Rays car similar to #114. Since we could install it a little lower in this car its a bit wider then #114. It will be nice for storage since there are no pumps or electrics getting in the way. We will be using the shelf for rear speakers and an amplifier also. The lid will likely get cut into sections like on #114.

98.jpg

100.jpg
 

ratrog64

Well-known member
Fuel Fill

So I made a mold and built a cup for recessing in the fuel fill. It gets bonded in from underneath. The top edge of the fender still needs to get rounded over to finish it off. It will have a drain hole and tube in the lowest area when complete.

94.jpg

103.jpg

106.jpg

109.jpg

108.jpg
 
Last edited:

islandman

Member
Just a few photos of the ground effects attached to the side pod. I just used self tapping screws initially that will be replaced with a nut and bolt later.

Its kind of odd how they fit and as you can see, you have to eyeball where they go. There is nothing to follow for placement. That's what threw me off the first time I installed a set.

View attachment 8521

View attachment 8522

View attachment 8523

It does sort of look like they need to be 2 inches longer at the front
 

ratrog64

Well-known member
True that, but I have to admit, once they are mounted it doesn't make much of a difference from the angle you view them from.

As stated in the past, I think the ground effects make the single biggest difference of the outer appearance of the car. *thumbs up*
 

vpogv

Active member
Really digging the dash clips - great way to mount it. You also really made me want the ground affects again... must resist. *laugh*
 

ratrog64

Well-known member
Really digging the dash clips - great way to mount it. You also really made me want the ground affects again... must resist. *laugh*

Again?????? You mean you had some and removed them???????

The dash clips make it so easy during mock up. I've had the dash in and out 30 times already. Once its in for good a couple of screws keep it in place so it won't be able to lift up.
 
Top