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Project Defi

Ok, so I started a thread before, but it was more of an intro than an actual built thread, so I'm going to start over if that's ok with everyone.

So as of 2022 I'm living in France. France is very strict on kit cars - they're generally frowned upon and hard to register. I just sort of accepted that I'd never own a kit car until I met my friend Alex. He buys kits from the UK (mostly Lotus7 clones) and resells them here. He said that as long as you can prove that the car you're trying to import was once sold in France, and the title reflects that's its a kit (and not just registered as a the donor) there is a *chance* that you might be able to register it. But maybe not. The organization that decides if you can register it is the FFVE. You need to send them photos of the car and any documentation, and they'll either issue you the FFVE paperwork or deny the application. They have you put a current newspaper in the photos (it looks like ransom photos) to prove they're current.

Luckily, the Sterling was sold in France under the name Defi:
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So right now, my next step is trying to apply for the FFVE certificate. That was something I was going to take my time with, but Alex said that he and other people who work with importing cars have noticed that the FFVE is getting more fussy with what they're approving. There has been no official change in what they accept, but he said, 'the sooner you apply, the better'. So I'm trying to get the car looking good enough to photograph and make the application. If it's denied, then this becomes the shortest build thread ever. In fact, one of the reasons I started with a cheap car, is because I knew there was a possibility that the application will fail, and I'll be forced to ship the car back to the UK to sell it, or abandon it for parts.

Here is what the car looked like when I got it.
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It looks like the car was originally orange/red. I'm not sure if the hood or the top are original to the body, as neither line up very well. Obviously the rear hatch-thingy isn't original. In fact, it's just a sheet of fiberglass-ish material with that gasser scoop slapped on it.
My main goal was to get it all one color, so I used a roller and white enamel furniture paint. I bought some lights off a Bollore Bluecar (60€ for the set) as I figured it'd be easier to get approved with lights that we're approved for use in France already (as a bonus, they're the type of lights I want to use when I build the car. I'd found a photoshopped rear-end that I really like, and it uses round lights. I also bought a rear hatch off an mk2 MR2 which fits in the engine well of the Sterling perfectly. I was able to buy the side pieces from the MR2 seller so when I install it properly, I'll have the bits I need to do so. For now, it's just resting in place. My wife is a professional photographer and said she can photoshop it for the FFVE photos.

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This is the back end I'd like to try to recreate:
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I think the BlueCar lights will work well if/when I try to make this back end.

I bought some tires off our local marketplace and will replace the drag radials on the rear. The current ones are 265 width tires on 6-inch rims! I'm going to change those out on Monday. I've also bought some seats that sort of fit. They're not what I want to install permanently so if I need to hack them up to get them in there that's fine. Again, the goal is to get the FFVE cert as cheaply as possible. I also have some budget industrial carpet I'll throw in there. So next update will be pics of the inside. I also need to install my exterior mirrors, and buy some plexiglass to make makeshift headlight covers.
 
Alright - So my FFVE application has been sent in. Now, it's just a matter of waiting 4-12 weeks to see what they say. It'll either be a pass, reject, or 'need more info'. I give it about a 10% chance of being a 'pass', but I did include a fair bit of info on the car and the historical significance of the Sterling - with thanks to Rick and Warren who lent their status in the Sterling community to write letters on my behalf - thanks! So here's how the car turned out:

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I'll add that any little bits and bobs you see added are not actually working. Lights aren't hooked up, and seats aren't bolted in, etc.

Here's what I spent on my photo-taking project:
Tires: 40€
Carpet: 25€
Gear shift knob: 7€
Seats: 50€
Rear lights: 60€
Plexiglass for headlights: 15€
Licence plates: 46€
White paint: 12€
Black paint 8€
Mirrors: 22€
Wiper: 6€
Used front bumper (from an Audi 80 iii) - 10€
MR2 hatch: 70€
TOTAL: 371€
 
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I don't believe it! My FFVE application has been accepted! Thanks in part to Rick and Warren who graciously offered their expert evaluations on Sterlings in general (citing that they were a marque worth restoring) with some comments on my car in particular. I have a friend who has been waiting for 3+ months for a reply, so I'm surprised mine came in 3 weeks.

Now comes the next task of getting it roadworthy enough for an inspection - and I want to do a drive-side swap at the same time.
 

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So my storage guy needed his parking space back. I was going to look around for other parking garages, but in the end I just decided to remove the 1 to 1.5 tonnes of debris in my future workshop and roll the car in there. I didn't want to do that previously as I have plans to make a nice workshop and pour a cement floor. It's just that a couple dozen things need to happen before I'm ready for concrete. I was hesitant to move the car in there, as that means I'll need to move it out when I do pour concrete. But I bought a winch and some roller dolleys, and I'll move it around as needed. The nice thing about having it in my garage is that I'll be able to tinker on it when I have a spare 30 mins.
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it is a really interesting space, the only unfortunate thing is that the entrance is at an odd location. You could fit 3 cars in there, but you'd need to have two of them on rollers to get them in to place. Also, the roof is slanted (so high on one side, low on the other) which limits what kind of life I could put in. I'm thinking of just getting one of these tilting lifts. They're cheap, and will likely do whatever I need to do. Lastly, the reason that I haven't poured a floor in here yet is because I want to take out a few courses of stones from the high side, as it blocks our view from our living room. So that will involve me throwing down hundreds of rocks, and I'd rather not do that on nice new concrete. So that has to happen first. Then, once I've got some of that weight off that wall, I can widen the garage door to make getting in and out easier. Widening a 2-foot thick stone wall is no easy task.
 
So something happened that I didn't expect. My 9-year-old son is super interested in working on the car. The reason it's unexpected is because he was with me the day it got delivered 1.5 years ago, and at the time he could not have been less interested. In fact, he was playing with a pile of rocks while I was asking if he wanted to check it out, and he said no.

So fast forward to a couple weeks ago when it came home. I think the fact that his friends at school saw it and thought it was cool helped. But he asked what I need to do to the car, and I said "At some point, I'll see if I can get the engine running.", to which he replied "Can we do that today?" He's rarely enthusiastic about any activity, so I was excited to see his interest. I told him we'd get some stuff together and do it this weekend. And that's just what we did. We checked all the plugs, cleaned up the distributor and rotor, re-wired the ignition and starter and tried to start it. I let him do most of it, with me just telling him what to do. Unfortunately, the starter spins, but won't crank the engine. We pulled the starter and it bench tests just fine. The bendix moves in and out and it spins nicely, but it still won't engage the ring gear. I think I'll just try a new starter. In the meantime, we also started with some rust cleanup, and then removed the RHD dash. I found a LHD dash locally for 25€ (it's from an Audi A3) and the guy is giving away some other parts that might be nice to have (carpet, gas tank). So I'm off to get those tomorrow morning. And we'll try a new starter next weekend! I never expected this to become a father-son project, but I'm excited that it may be.
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letterman7

Honorary Admin
The starter generally lands in a pilot bearing in the transmission housing. If the bearing has been beaten to death, the bendix won't extend far enough to engage. If you have a borescope or really bright flashlight you might be able to see what's happening in the hold - and the condition of the ring gear.
 
Hey Rick - thanks for the reminder! I read about the bearings last night but forgot to check it until I saw your message. I took a photo, and the bearing looks ...odd. It doesn't look like it's worn on the inside, but rather on the outside. It looks like it's fallen in it's hole.
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I did contact the guy who sold it to me. He said the car had a Ford 4cyl in there previously and he bought the bug engine to get it running, but just installed it and never got around to starting it. He did confirm it's a 12v engine, and I do see that I have a 6v starter. So it also could be that I've got the wrong starter for the ring gear (109 teeth vs 130 teeth). I'll try changing out this bearing first.
 

letterman7

Honorary Admin
If it's 12v, then it probably has the 130 tooth gear. You could always mark one and count. As for the bearing, you'll have to pull the motor which you may or may not be doing. An auto-stick starter will fit directly and won't need the pilot bearing.
 
Ok, so the bushing saga. I ordered a bushing (2€ + 8$ shipping), but it was for a 12v starter, and what I have seems to be a 6v starter. Can't return the bushing, as my return shipping would be more than the refund. Oh well, 10€ is pretty minimal in the grand scheme of a car build, right? So I ordered a 6v bushing, but then found I had a tap that would have fit the 12v bushing, but not the 6v (which is larger). So I headed to the hardware store, and they don't sell 14mm taps. So I bought some 14mm threaded rod and tried to file down an end. In the end I bought 13€ worth of stuff to try to extract the old bushing, and none of it worked. So I ordered a 14mm tap on Amazon, and it gets here Wed. The irony is not lost on me that in the end I'll have spent about €40 to change a 2€ bushing.

So I started in on other things.
I pulled the Audi TT dash (RHD) the other day, and then this weekend I pulled the remnants of the Sterling dash. The PO had cut the old dash to affix the TT dash to it, and I'll do something similar with my new dash. I bought a Audi A3 dash (LHD) the other day for 25€, and the guy threw in the A3 carpet for free. I have figured out a plan for how to get it to work. It's too wide, but I have a plan to cut it at the instrument cluster to narrow it, as I'll be using smaller gauges. I'll then make a joiner piece out of fiberglass (painted) or carbon fiber. Part of the reason for pulling all the dash was 1) to convert the car to LHD, and 2) to straighten up the lift mounts, and install hydraulics.
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So there she is, interior gutted. The shifter is broken, but I have a new one. The floors are ok. Some small surface rust that's poked through in a few spots, but nothing that worries me too much.

So my lower brackets for the canopy arms seem to be made out of thinner metal than I'd expect. They seem bent in some places. They seem to be made of a large U-channel, with a triangular piece that goes downward in to the body. I don't know if I should try to re-make the whole thing, or just add a thicker flat piece over the triangle. I feel like that flat piece, if thick enough, should keep the whole thing more rigid. However, I did think I could rebuild the U-channel piece by getting a thick piece of square tubing and cutting off one end. One question I do have - what do most people do with the top when doing this work? Do you invite some friends over and lift it off and set it aside? I was wondering if I could just put a pulley on my ceiling and hoist it up, then it'd be in a good position to drop right back down? Thoughts?
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I was able to buy a nice set of hydraulic rams from a 2011 Mustang for 150€. Tested them out and they work great. They move at 15mm/sec, and based on the length of travel I see on the current struts, that should give me an 8 second opening time. The only thing I'm stuck on is how to attach them on the lower end. On the Mustang, they use something called a head trunnion mount. There are 2 problems with this kind of mount. First, its at the top of the cylinder, which wouldn't really work with the "V" shape the strut needs to sit in. Second, it needs to be supported on two sides. I think I could run a bar of metal to support the second side, but again, I don't think it would fit in the V pivoting there. So, how do I grab on to the body of the strut and give it something to pivot off of?? I thought I could use exhaust clamps (the kind with a flat end) and drill a hole for a bolt through the flat side. My other idea was to find a pipe with an ID the same as the OD on the cylinder. Then make a 'shoe' of sorts for the cylinder to sit in, and put a bolt through the shoe. The base of the cylinder would rest on that bolt, meaning the shoe isn't taking stress, it's simply holding the bolt in place to take the direct pressure from the bottom of the cylinder. Anyone got any other ideas?
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Another great piece of news. I found a parts yard that lets you walk around! This is nearly unheard of in France. A friend turned me on to it (the same friend that helped be buy and import the Sterling). So this junkyard has 2 sections. Newer cars (public is not allowed in here) and older cars. You're allowed in, but have to tell them what you want to get, and off which car. So I just said I was looking for a console from a Renault Twingo 1G, and they pointed me in the right direction. In the end, I pulled parts from 3 other cars and no one seemed to mind. I took my son and he enjoyed it, but didn't like the fact he wasn't allowed to wander solo. I ended up getting a nice center console and some pieces to make 2-piece windows. I'm hoping to replicate this: https://novakitcars.weebly.com/blog/opening-side-windows I also pulled the handbrake that went with the console so it will all match. There are no price lists, so it's sort of a surprise when you go to check out, but I found the prices reasonable. I also found a new website here called Ovoko. They seem to be a consolidator for junkyards to list their parts. Seems to be cheaper than the classifieds I've been using. I got a convertible top switch for an EOS, which if you haven't seem them, it's a really nice switch. It's large and chunky (takes 2 fingers to lift into the up position) and has a nice graphic that could be interpreted as a top opening and closing.
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I actually owned an EOS for about a year. Nice little car. It has the hardtop convertible, but also a retractable sunroof, which is what that little inset switch is. I'm not sure what I'll use that for, if anything.
 

letterman7

Honorary Admin
On the plastic end, are those holes just a place to put a pin? I can't tell if that goes all the way through. Personally, I'd make a cradle to hold it, and bolt the cradle to the hinge plate. Something that would wrap the top with openings to put a bolt or something into the plastic holes, as well as placing a physical restriction on the shoulder of the piston, and at the bottom basically an open soda can with a slot for the hose connection. Connect the top and bottom with a stiff thick strap so it doesn't flex. Might take some finagling and a little welding (and hammer hits over a form for the steel), but that should hold it securely.
 

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On the plastic end, are those holes just a place to put a pin? I can't tell if that goes all the way through. Personally, I'd make a cradle to hold it, and bolt the cradle to the hinge plate. Something that would wrap the top with openings to put a bolt or something into the plastic holes, as well as placing a physical restriction on the shoulder of the piston, and at the bottom basically an open soda can with a slot for the hose connection. Connect the top and bottom with a stiff thick strap so it doesn't flex. Might take some finagling and a little welding (and hammer hits over a form for the steel), but that should hold it securely.
Cool. I think we have the same idea with the 'soda can' cradle at the bottom. I had thought about clamping it somewhere on the ram, but mostly relying on gravity and the weight of the roof to keep it firmly in the cradle. I like your idea of trying to tie off to the top too to make sure it stays in place. (Yes, the plastic bit are just holes for pins, and no, it doesn't go through, just one on each side).
 

letterman7

Honorary Admin
You'll have to secure the top somehow, or the entire assembly will lift when you go to close the canopy. The bottom cradle supports the "push", the top cradle supports the "pull".
 
Ok, so I've made some progress.
First, I got the starter bushing out. That was the good news. Bad news is that there was a set screw (aka grub screw) holding it in. It looked very unusual and perhaps one-off, so I decided to ask the folks over at Samba if they'd seen this. They confirmed it was not stock, and after a few deliberations, I decided to get an automatic starter. (Shoulda listened to Rick weeks ago!) One of the reasons I didn't immediately do that is that I couldn't seem to find one here (at least for less than €300). Once I found out that T3 starters will work, I found one for €80. The other reason I hesitated was that I thought I had a 6v flywheel. Someone said they thought it looked more like a 12v flywheel, but couldn't tell definitively from the photo. This makes sense as the seller said they were sure it was a 12v motor, and the flywheel may have some with the motor. I'll count the theeth before mounting the starter, but if I do have a 6v, I'll buy a used 12v one. I'm leaning towards pulling the motor anyway, as parts to upgrade to a 1600 are fairly cheap (if I keep with the single port).

I ordered some tubing to make my pivot brackets for the power lifts, but they got lost in shipping. So the seller is sending new ones, but that crossed that project off for last weekend. So I built a fence in front of my workshop. There is a male stray cat who likes to come in and mark my car and my parts, and I got tired of it. I can't seal the garage tight until I re-concrete the floor, and a few things need to happen first, so I bought €40 in fencing and will just keep him out.

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I did find some racing seats and bought them based on the fact that they looked like they might work, and they would be narrower than any other seats I'd find. Plus, it's easier to modify/remove the rails from a racing seat than an OEM one. Still, they don't sit as low as I'd like, and I don't know if dropping floorpans would pass inspection here. They were only €100 for the pair, so I'm ok if I need to resell then
 
My tube arrived this week and I was able to make my brackets. My calipers gave me a reading of 45mm OD, but I guess it was off by just a bit, because the pipe I bought was supposedly 45mm ID and it was too small. It took about an hour for each bracket grounding them out with an awl and a Christmas tree bit.
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But I got it ground out enough where it fits on nice and snug.
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Now I just need to order some bolts, drill some holes and mount them. I'm going to need to figure out a way to keep the top up as I do this. I know the gas struts on there are dead, but I believe they are keeping the canopy from smashing in to the hood. My plan is to put up a hook on the rafters of the garage, and use some straps.

I have a question on the hinges, but maybe it's better to post it in the canopy section, so others could find it later.
 
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