Progress is still progress! VW alignments are actually pretty easy - you can do it in your own garage with simple tools. Lots of Samba threads and Youtube vids on how to do it. Front ends are easy... rear is a little more difficult, but they rarely go out of alignment (unless you change ride height drastically). As for the bleeders... brake fluid doesn't "dry". Take the bleeders out and wrap a little teflon tape on them, but don't cover the actual bleeder hole on the end.
That sound of the auto bleeding definitely isn't this so I am in agreement.That’s an odd symptom and I’m not too sure what is going on. Here are some thoughts based on problems I’ve had with the top.
One of my cars gets air in its line when I let it sit for a while. When I run the top, I can hear little pockets of air going through the pump which present as random, quick, intermittent pauses and a sound that literally sounds like the pump is cavitating for brief moments. It’s not a periodic sound like yours so I’m tempted to think yours isn’t due to air (which I know you were also tending to rule out.)
Now the cylinder binding is a good thought but I would imagine it would have to be off by a good amount to really bind up like that. With the top off everything runs smoothly but I am going to check the angles of the cylinder to ensure it's running parallel.It kind of sounds like something is binding and releasing. I wonder if there is some amount of binding in the cylinder itself or in the parallel-hinge on that side. I don’t want to send you on a wild goose chase though.
Have you cycled it a bunch of times? There’s a chance it’ll free up.
Also, is that the tone that your pump has always had? Is your battery good? I’m asking because your pump has a lower tone than any of mine. But I still can’t think of how that would contribute to that lurching.
I appreciate any feedback so thank you. As far as the cylinders they weren't full but they never dried out enough to kill the seals.Most puzzling is that you said it didn’t do that before you replaced a hose. Was the cylinder empty and dry for a long time? (Even if it was, it should naturally have had a film of fluid that would prevent any corrosion or change to the O-rings, etc.)
Sorry I don’t have a definitive diagnosis.
Maybe hit the parallel hinge with some oil and cycle it a bunch more times with a confirmed strong battery to rule out the low hanging fruit.
Absolutely. Put them on both outbound lines. Might take a few tries to get the pressure right, but it will help.Could one of those limiters also help with the canopy going down? When i drop mine there's a bounce-bounce-bounce all the way down. If I apply opposite pressure to the canopy, it stops the bouncing.
Just for clarification, when you say you “flipped” both cylinders as an experiment, do you mean that you kept them on the same side and turned them upside down or did you flip them from one side of the car to the other and still had problems on the same side of the car? I’m just curious whether the problem followed one of the cylinders or if it’s unique to one side of the canopy.
PS My red car came with a flow controller similar to what Letterman is describing. But I think there is only one on my car. I’ll try to double check how it’s plumbed and whether it was to control one side or common to both, etc. I always figured it was common to both and was just there to fine-tune the overall speed, but through this discussion I am now rethinking that. Maybe they really did need it to sync the cylinders better.