They will remain inside just as in the image. I do agree with you it shouldn't have made a difference but there was an obvious "top" which snapped into the nut housing.
Pog's Sterling (CCC293)
- Thread starter vpogv
- Start date
They will remain inside just as in the image. I do agree with you it shouldn't have made a difference but there was an obvious "top" which snapped into the nut housing.
ratrog64
Well-known member
They will remain inside just as in the image. I do agree with you it shouldn't have made a difference but there was an obvious "top" which snapped into the nut housing.Definitely could be that I didn't tighten it down as well though. No way to know now.
True, just time to move on and hope for better luck next time.
I have found that the more expensive fittings that have the tube insert built in seem to have a ferrule that has a top and bottom. They work very nicely also, but they are expensive!
ratrog64
Well-known member
Been there more then once (10 times) *laugh*
1. All light wiring is done and working - just need to clean it up.
2. Interior canopy switches work as well as my "emergency" switch under the front bonnet. My mess of relays actually worked!
I was rethinking my electric mirror wiring that I initially planned to put in the center console. That's just more wire to run from the canopy to the tub which I'd like to NOT do. So I am thinking of moving the switch to the canopy. Any thoughts on drilling a 1"-1.25" hole here?
2. Interior canopy switches work as well as my "emergency" switch under the front bonnet. My mess of relays actually worked!
I was rethinking my electric mirror wiring that I initially planned to put in the center console. That's just more wire to run from the canopy to the tub which I'd like to NOT do. So I am thinking of moving the switch to the canopy. Any thoughts on drilling a 1"-1.25" hole here?
letterman7
Honorary Admin
Yass! Nice choice for the mirror switch!
The mirrors are from a first gen Miata and fit really well with very minimal work. The only challenge was drilling holes in the inside of the canopy in order to get to the underside bolts to mount. The mirror switch is from a Ford Focus.
More things checked off the list and creeping real close to being ready to get the engine back in. Wiper and mirrors are 100% wired as well as most of the wiring is all cleaned up and in loom. Simply need to throw some ends on the dash wiring and the gauge pod wiring.
One quick plug - I contacted Gerald @ busparts.com years ago and he spent the time to work with me to get a replacement wiper motor to the discontinued Bosch motor. Called him again 3+ years later and he spent plenty of time yet again helping me find the missing pivot shaft assembly parts. I HIGHLY recommend anybody reaching out to them for any wiper system part. Surely I could have found it a little cheaper but definitely not without his time and help!
And the wiper wiring for documentation that I was having issues with a few pages ago:
One quick plug - I contacted Gerald @ busparts.com years ago and he spent the time to work with me to get a replacement wiper motor to the discontinued Bosch motor. Called him again 3+ years later and he spent plenty of time yet again helping me find the missing pivot shaft assembly parts. I HIGHLY recommend anybody reaching out to them for any wiper system part. Surely I could have found it a little cheaper but definitely not without his time and help!
And the wiper wiring for documentation that I was having issues with a few pages ago:
This really shouldn't be that hard... I spent today attempting to remedy the wiper shaft height that seems just off. The new shaft and old are the same length with the diameter being the only difference (besides age). Both sit at the same height and to me it just looks off.
There's no way that many threads is how it shows for everybody else - any pictures or thoughts?
There's no way that many threads is how it shows for everybody else - any pictures or thoughts?
letterman7
Honorary Admin
That's way high. The shaft should be bedded down on the bezel or pretty close to it. If it's only the diameter that's different, drill out the arm to slide down over the shaft or spacer the motor itself to drop it down. The shaft may be the same length, the motor mounts may not.
Well decided to pull the carb off for a quick rebuild and then re-attach the tins which meant to pull off a few things. Well one thing led to another and well crap!
That doesn't look normal...
Well that's not good for airflow....
..AND here we are.
I considered rebuilding it but honestly I may just dig for a turnkey and move on.
That doesn't look normal...
Well that's not good for airflow....
..AND here we are.
I considered rebuilding it but honestly I may just dig for a turnkey and move on.
I think the search for a new engine is a good call. When I look into those ports I get a sense of ...sadness and despair. In fairness, I've never deeply rebuilt a bug engine, so perhaps a more seasoned vw engine guy would just shrug at that damage and proceed. I think you'll be happier treating yourself to that replacement, though. Just to say it, I know that rebuilt engines aren't insanely expensive and you might be able to coax a little more HP out of it. On the other hand, a nicely running 1600 for under a grand is a fine option. As gets said over and over, these cars don't weigh much and don't need much to be fun to drive.