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Pog's Sterling (CCC293)

vpogv

Active member
Been at the same stage for months now and getting annoyed there's no progress. I have a number of circuits drawn out so tomorrow I'll run the wire and test. Only one I'm a bit iffy on is the wiper so more on that to come.

I also need to deal with the windows and "fine tune" the mounting hardware so that they will close and open with gaskets around the window. Then again that can wait as I really want this thing running by fall.
 

Peter

Active member
Know what you mean, I think many of us are in 'summer mode' with life, work, heat etc getting t he better of us.
 

vpogv

Active member
Well the 12V source I was using was squished today by an Edge that wanted it's parking spot in the garage. That brought wiring to a halt - but that's ok! I needed to pick up a battery anyway, battery wire and a misc wire lengths and connectors and this gives me my reason.

Ill be posting a bit in the electrical section looking for input so keep an eye out!
 

vpogv

Active member
So I'm sitting here running through wiring and suddenly my brain stops me and I get thinking about my transmission mounts. I have a 4-rib bus trans on a modified front bracket and solid rear bracket. I haven't seen them but is there an option other than a solid mount for this set up that others have seen?
 

letterman7

Honorary Admin
Never seen padded Bus mounts. Is there even room to put a pad? If so, maybe look through fleabay for solid rubber sheets and make your own.
 

ratrog64

Well-known member
You can't just put a rubber pad between the trans and the mount. You will break the location where the bolt goes through the trans because of flexing and movement. Motor mounts have a plate and bolts on each side of the mount that is attached to opposite sides of the rubber mount (its not thru bolted). This allows the flexing to happen at the rubber while the bolt and plate stay affixed to the trans and mount bracket without movement.
 

vpogv

Active member
Strapped on top and you can barely make out the bottom 2 engine bolts that go through the trans and the bracket.

DSC00064_595.jpg


DSC00065_595.jpg


There is a strap towards the nose of the transmission to but same as the one in the images - nonpadded metal strap. Perhaps its a nonissue but the steel strap constantly rubbing the transmission is something I would like to fix.
 

ratrog64

Well-known member
You can put any type of pad under the strap you wish. That type of strap and mount is most common on off road applications. The lack of a rubber motor mount will allow for engine vibration to transfer on to the chassis but not so much I'd worry about. I've had hard mounted motors in several VWs and it never really bothered me since the ride wasn't so great to start with. Why did you chose the bus trans? What are you doing for a motor?
 

vpogv

Active member
Thanks for the input! I chose this transmission because it came in the car. *thumbs up* Engine is the stock 1600 that was attached to it when I bought it.
 

ratrog64

Well-known member
Great reason to choose a bus trans (it chose you!). They are very stout and should be pretty bullet proof in your application. I'd wait till you got some miles under your belt before you made any changes to the mounts. They might work perfect for you as they are. The trans straps usually draw tight to the transaxle so much so there is no rattle or scraping. You might find once you have got everything tightened down you don't need any pad under the strap.
 

Peter

Active member
I guess that is the way it's done but personally i wouldn't do it like that, I would have to have some mounts between the horns and the bell housing even if it meant drilling through the bell housing.*hmmm*
 

vpogv

Active member
Huge thanks to Rick for helping out with the indicator and control panel - they turned out great. Here's the center dash set up:

Left to right we have the fan blower, defrost/ vent selector and then 12v plug with the power mirror switch below it all.

dask_panel1.jpg

Just have to figure out the best way to mount it securely as I really don't want to have exposed screws and I feel epoxy would work but would like it to be more easily removable.
 

vpogv

Active member
I thought about the tape and if it wouldn't have been for the gap it would create I would definitely have gone that route. I'll figure out something for it. In the meantime I sucked it up and cut out the dash pod for the indicator panel. A hack saw and dremeling later:

20160909_213458.jpg

I was happen until I realized something is missing from the pod. The face need something more to break up the black. It might just take chrome gauge bezels or even a flat black paint to make it pop a bit more. I'll ponder it while I finish up soldering the indicator lights up.
 

Peter

Active member
Huge thanks to Rick for helping out with the indicator and control panel - they turned out great. Here's the center dash set up:

Left to right we have the fan blower, defrost/ vent selector and then 12v plug with the power mirror switch below it all.

View attachment 7796

Just have to figure out the best way to mount it securely as I really don't want to have exposed screws and I feel epoxy would work but would like it to be more easily removable.


Velcro?
 

vpogv

Active member
Well the big house project(s) are finishing up this weekend and hoping to have time to do work to the car. Entire kitchen, dining, laundry room renovation with a family room floor project thrown in as well has been taking a while to finish up.

kitchen_1.jpg

kitchen_2.jpg

To make Brett happy, here's the work on the car - put a chair on top of it. :D

chair_mod.jpg
 

ratrog64

Well-known member
Geezzz ........ The before pics were pretty darn nice, but the after, whoot!!!!! *thumbs up**thumbs up*

Beautiful!

The car looks real good too but I think it will be hard to drive from the new seating position. Even facing the wrong direction! *insane*
 

vpogv

Active member
Geezzz ........ The before pics were pretty darn nice, but the after, whoot!!!!! *thumbs up**thumbs up*

Beautiful!

Thanks! It wasn't bad but a rotted subfloor courtesy of a leaky dishwasher and terrible tile led the the decision for me to spend 6 months redoing it all.

The car looks real good too but I think it will be hard to drive from the new seating position. Even facing the wrong direction! *insane*

I thought I would think outside the box ... errr car on this one. ;)
 

letterman7

Honorary Admin
Damn... do you do that for a living? I'll hire ya! Looks great! All the stuff I need to be doing too... thanks for the reminder *laugh*
 
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