Linear Actuators

[Brett Proctor]

I know there has been talk on this in the past but it fell on deaf ears since I wasn't interested in them at the time,but now they've peaked my interest with the thoughts of installing a Logic Board in them.

Found this site
Mini Medium-Force Linear Actuators (PA-16)
DC Speed Controller for Actuators

They seem to have a good selection of units and accessories and maybe something that can be used in our cars not to mention wiring diagrams.

It seems that most of the systems that are put in our cars are hydraulic.
I'm sure each system has its pluses and minuses but with the Linear system, the options for improvements and safety are far greater than the hydraulic systems and there's no messy fluids to deal with.

Feel free to put your 2 cents in. I'm just thinking out loud*hmmm*

I'll have to research this alittle more

 

[RangerBEH]

Your not alone I've been looking at this a lot. Last thing I want is to put in a nice interior and empty a hydrolic tank all over it.......

Also I found these in another post. Can these be used with the pa16's?

DC Control Box - for Multiple Motors - Simultaneous Function - Speed Control

 

[Brett Proctor]

Your not alone I've been looking at this a lot. Last thing I want is to put in a nice interior and empty a hydrolic tank all over it.......

Also I found these in another post. Can these be used with the pa16's?

DC Control Box - for Multiple Motors - Simultaneous Function - Speed Control

I'm not an expert on this but its made by the same company so I would say yes, but I'd call them just to make sure.

Researched this a little farther and these make the hydraulic system look like an old 8 track

We can customize the PA-16 according to:

• IP rating
• Voltage
• Dimensions
• Stroke
• Force
• Wire Length
• Hall Effect Sensors or Limit Switches
• Connectors
• Mounting Holes

On another topic
Sears wants $146 for that logic board and you can buy the whole garage door opener for $200*hmmm**insane*

 

[letterman7]

Keep in mind, you'll need some sort of escape plan if the power fails. Hydraulics you can dump the fluid and (theoretically) lift the top - though I've usually had to have outside help. Actuators you'll need a release pin, or a separate switching direct current battery.

 

[thestevie]

I think the PA-39 is the closest you're going to get without a lot of coding.
It has 3 recordable preset slots for two actuators.

 

[Peter]

Release pin, mount the top on a spindle as usual but cross drill 1/8" and fit a (split, cotter) pull pin and a bit of cord instead of a nut.
Anyone running a parallel HD gas strut to take a lot of the weight? This would make pushing the now disconnected canopy easier to manually lift.

 

[Nic]

Regarding the pull pin... I had one on my actuators and it was a B!TCH to get that pin out when the top was cranked down. Remember, if it has 150lbs of push/pull, it's possibly pulling down 150lbs across that pin and it won't slide out very easily, unless you grease it like I did, and it was still difficult to pull out when your hunched over in the car trying to get decent pull leverage on it.

 

[Peter]

I was thinking of leaving the mounting pin as was but just replacing the nut with a pin, I thought it would be easier to pull the top of the actuator off the pin rather than the pin out of the mount.

 

[ratrog64]

Why worry so much about a release on the top. Just buy the window hinge kit from Dave and climb out the window if you have to. Seems simpler to me plus now you can take your windows out any time you want!

 

[ydeardorff]

*laugh* Have you ever tried to pull a dukes of hazard in a sterling?*laugh*

Putting a size 12 into a size 5 "WITH A SHOE HORN AND GREASE" would be faster!*hee-hee-hee**friggin won't work*

 

[Peter]

Why worry so much about a release on the top. Just buy the window hinge kit from Dave and climb out the window if you have to. Seems simpler to me plus now you can take your windows out any time you want!

You gota be skinny to even suggest that, there is no way my 250Lb bulk would go though the side window, have a enough trouble with the bloody door open

 

[ratrog64]

NO I have never tried to climb out the window ..... I have never even driven a Sterling until just a few days ago. But you know damn sure I will be climbing out a window real soon.*laugh* That is as soon as I install the new hinges I guess I now have to buy!
If you guys are such fat asses, how the hell do you even fit in these tiny drivers seats?*hee-hee-hee*

 

[letterman7]

Been there, done that. My current car had the power fail, and even with a dump valve I had no leverage purchase to push the top open. Everyone was away somewhere (but thankfully I was in my own driveway) so I broke out a screwdriver I kept behind the seats and took out the driver's window. That alone was a challenge - trying to remove the screws and balance it from the outside so it's not dropped into a million pieces, then bringing it inside to put on the passenger's seat. Not as easy as it sounds. I did slither out, rather ungracefully. A targa or T-top would make exits much easier. You won't have that problem with 114.

 

[letterman7]

And by the way, those hinges are quick-release hinges from a sunroof setup on 114, unless someone changed them. Release the catch at the bottom and swing out past 90°. You should be able to slip or snap the roll pin out of the catch on the frame.

 

[nbb350]

Just buy the window hinge kit from Dave and climb out the window if you have to. Seems simpler to me plus now you can take your windows out any time you want!

I have the "pull pins" in my design with my linear actuators, but also think that they will be a bugger to pull out in an emergency so I figure my pop-off hinged windows will be my main escape method...the pull pins are just there in case of an actuator failure.

 

[Brett Proctor]

When I get a few minutes I'll call the company and explain what I plan to use them for and get their thoughts about installing the logic board and maybe they may have an idea for a release system or some other ideas.

 

[Peter]

NO I have never tried to climb out the window ..... I have never even driven a Sterling until just a few days ago. But you know damn sure I will be climbing out a window real soon.*laugh* That is as soon as I install the new hinges I guess I now have to buy!
If you guys are such fat asses, how the hell do you even fit in these tiny drivers seats?*hee-hee-hee*

Bigger seats and yes, it is 'snug'.*thumbs up* As my Danish wife says, "It's not so much getting into the car as wearing it"

 

[Brett Proctor]

Something to think about.

Dave wants $1375 for his hydraulic kit and $216.50 for just the basic gas struts.

For a pair of the 150lb force Linear Actuators the cost is about the same as the gas struts.

For a pair of the 330lb force Linear Actuators your looking at $278

Of course the Actuators will need some wiring,relays and a switch but the point is how cheap they are compared to the other options and I think they are rebuildable so if any thing should go wrong you can repair them and from what I've seen so far they're very reliable.

I've been also looking at options to over riding the system in case something should fail. Crawling through the window is not one of them.
As Rick stated with the hydraulic system, even when you bypass the system it still takes two to open the canopy. I'm looking at ways one person can do it.

 

[ydeardorff]

You can design in gas struts to help to lift the top when the hydraulic system/linear actuators are released.

 

[Peter]

As with the Cimbria/SS 45Lb gull wing doors, the canopy has an even bigger problem of dead weight when disconnected, the gas struts in parallel with rams/actuators would neutralise this weight and allow the rams/actuators to works easier with less load and also allow the door/canopy to be raised should the rams/actuators be disconnected, so the automated system would be an addition to the manual system rather than replace it complexly.