How do I check my SN
- Thread starter Sterling.GTx
- Start date
tycat05
New member
Attachments
Brett Proctor
Well-known member
The original wiper motor has a 3 hole bolt pattern and 3 wires controlling the high speed, low speed and park. Ground wire went to the case of the motor.
Motor was made by Bosch and is no longer made, but there are replacement units. Some use 3 wires and others 4-5 wires.
You may have to elongate the holes in the mounting plate a little for the newer units to mount up to.
Also you'll need to know if the motor you need uses a spline output shaft or "D" type output shaft. Again parts are available to make the newer motors to work.
Motor was made by Bosch and is no longer made, but there are replacement units. Some use 3 wires and others 4-5 wires.
You may have to elongate the holes in the mounting plate a little for the newer units to mount up to.
Also you'll need to know if the motor you need uses a spline output shaft or "D" type output shaft. Again parts are available to make the newer motors to work.
Brett Proctor
Well-known member
Wiper parts
Please no comments unless you have something useful to add Id like to make this as simple as possible for looking up parts for the wiper assembly I have ordered these parts and they worked for me. I have not been able to find a replacement for just the bracket. They do have the motor and...
www.sterlingkitcars.com
The main thing to look at is how many wires to the motor you have and what style of crank arm your using.
Real easy to change out the crank arm to the style needed for the motor.
I changed out my motor and the new motor had a spline shaft so I had to change out the crank arm to a round hole so it would except the spline shaft.
tycat05
New member
Good information.
Thank you very much.
tycat05
New member
What was used for the raising and lowering of the canopy?
tycat05
New member
What did they use for timers?
I'm trying to put a button in that would lower and rise. without a on and off switch.
There might be a few individual builders who tried to implement such “one touch” solutions but there was never anything like that from anyone producing the car. The two main ways it could be approached electronically would be 1) to have timers — one for up an one for down, or 2) to have physical limit switches that open the circuit when the canopy reaches a certain up or down position. Of the two, I conceptually like the limit switches a little more because, if set up correctly, I think they’d be more accurate.
The thing about timers that always made me nervous is that there are a variety of factors that can influence how quickly the canopy will move — like battery voltage or momentary pump cavitation if it’s been sitting for a while or weight of the canopy if you have the side windows out, etc. As such, I worry you wouldn’t be able to accurately control the end positions for up and down. When doing it manually from the car you get a good sense of when the pump and/or parallel arms are getting stressed in an over-open or over-close situation. (Depending on the details of the hydraulics, things could bend or break at either extreme if the pump runs for even a second too long.)
But for those very reasons I agree that it would be great to have a fail safe and idiot proof solution for opening and closing the top. But then again the extra complexity itself is just one more thing that could fail.
Just to say it, it’s a little easier to have some of those features if a person uses linear actuators instead of hydraulics. But unsurprisingly you end up with new “cons” as well including the need for some different escape plan if the actuators fail.
Anyhow, sorry that that isn’t a solution but they are many of the things to be thinking about.
I was always happy with manual switches. I never had a remote for the top but, if I ever want to add it (which IS a cool feature) I have resolved to just use a “manual” remote like an aftermarket remote for power windows or for a winch. (Manual in the sense that I still need to stop pressing the remote when I’ve achieved full up or down.)
The thing about timers that always made me nervous is that there are a variety of factors that can influence how quickly the canopy will move — like battery voltage or momentary pump cavitation if it’s been sitting for a while or weight of the canopy if you have the side windows out, etc. As such, I worry you wouldn’t be able to accurately control the end positions for up and down. When doing it manually from the car you get a good sense of when the pump and/or parallel arms are getting stressed in an over-open or over-close situation. (Depending on the details of the hydraulics, things could bend or break at either extreme if the pump runs for even a second too long.)
But for those very reasons I agree that it would be great to have a fail safe and idiot proof solution for opening and closing the top. But then again the extra complexity itself is just one more thing that could fail.
Just to say it, it’s a little easier to have some of those features if a person uses linear actuators instead of hydraulics. But unsurprisingly you end up with new “cons” as well including the need for some different escape plan if the actuators fail.
Anyhow, sorry that that isn’t a solution but they are many of the things to be thinking about.
I was always happy with manual switches. I never had a remote for the top but, if I ever want to add it (which IS a cool feature) I have resolved to just use a “manual” remote like an aftermarket remote for power windows or for a winch. (Manual in the sense that I still need to stop pressing the remote when I’ve achieved full up or down.)