Removing a Beetle engine and transaxle is about the easiest thing to do next to changing a tire - if you have an IRS rear end. An IRS rear will have two universal joints on each axle - one at the wheel and one at the transaxle. Hopefully, that is what you have. If not, you have a swing axle which complicates things a little more.
The first thing I want you to do is make a definitive ID on the year of your chassis. The Beetle VIN is stamped on top of the tunnel behind the seats. Find that and either post it here so we can find the build date or do your own search here:
TheSamba.com :: Beetle VIN / Chassis Numbers
With that date, go and purchase the appropriate Bentley shop manual for that year chassis. They can be found at on-line retailers, eBay and the Samba for under $50 usually. That manual will give you all the information you need to perform routine maintenance on your car.
Put the car on drive-on ramps at the back wheels. You'll want the rear higher than the front. Block the front wheels so it doesn't move. If your rear valance isn't glassed in, remove the rear taillight fiberglass piece and the rear valance. It'll make the removal much easier.
Removing the engine is (4) bolts. Unhook all the wires leading to the engine - to the distributor, coil, and voltage regulator. Mark the wires so you know how to put them back. On the flange of the engine to transaxle you'll see the four bolts equidistant around the flange. There is a D bolt and nut at the starter - you'll be removing the nut here instead of the bolt where elsewhere you'll be removing both.
Place a large, sturdy floor jack under the oil pan of the engine. Put a large flat board on the jack, something that is larger than the oil pan, then jack until it's steady under the engine. Undo the four bolts/nuts - I think they're all 17mm (it's been a while). Don't remove the top two bolts - they're needed to help support the engine. With the bottom two bolts removed and the top two nuts removed, jack the engine slightly to take the weight off the top two bolts. With a helper, slide the engine and floor jack back until the engine clears the input shaft. Once the engine is clear, you'll be able to drop it with the jack to the floor and move it out of the way.
For the transaxle, reach inside the car and look for the inspection plate at the back of the tunnel, on top, behind the seats. It's shaped like a football. Remove that. You'll see the shift coupler. Loosen and remove the screw holding the clamp to the shifter rod. Get back underneath the car and put the floor jack (take the engine off and place it aside) back underneath the transaxle in the middle. If you have an IRS chassis, take a 12pt socket and remove the bolts holding the U-joint to the transaxle. Take note that there are plates underneath every two of the bolts to spread the load - don't lose those. Once the joint is loose, take a plastic bag, wrap it around the end, and move it out of the way. Remove the wing bolt and tensioner at the clutch cable on the side of the trans. Let the clutch cable hang from the end of the chassis.
There are two bolts at the nose of the trans attaching it to the chassis. Remove those. I think they're 13mm, but not positive. Make sure the floor jack is steady and in place and remove the two giant bolts at the rear of the trans at the frame horns. At the point those two are pulled, the trans will settle onto the floor jack. Just like the engine, pull back until it clears the shift rod. If it doesn't want to move, check for binding at the shift coupler. Once loose, place it aside next to the engine somewhere - you're done!
The gas tank is usually held in place with a couple sets of metal plates and bolts on the flange. It'll vary from car to car, so you won't know what you have until you get there. At very worst you can cut it apart with a Sawz-All and take it out piece by piece - new tanks aren't expensive.
The best thing about doing this? You now have access to change all the components that normally wear out - the throw-out bearing in the trans, the rubber trans mounts, the shift coupler (change that one anyway, just because) and if need be, the rubber boots on the drive shafts.
You'll notice I didn't say anything about removing a swing axle transaxle. They take quite a bit of work to set back up correctly and if you don't have to remove it, don't. You may gain some working space by removing the mounting bolts as described earlier and letting the trans settle to the lowest point of the axle movement (don't let it hang from there, though). And don't go too low - the axles will pull out of the boots and internal fulcrums... then you'll have a hell of a mess. If possible, find a local VW club or mechanic and get to know them. There should be plenty in Colorado!
Rick
