Fiberglassing tips and tricks
Fiberglass resin does not stick very well to tin foil or plastic wrap. I have used both of these as a separating agent if I am making a mold of something.
PVA and carnuba wax in combination is a better idea. Apply at least 5 layers of wax to the surface(s) of whatever you are going to copy. Apply several thin coats of PVA to the waxed surfaces. A cheap spray gun can be picked up anywhere, harbor freight.
Chip brushes - If you cut the bristles so that they are about 1/2" to 3/4" long, it helps to push the mat into the resin.
Fiberglass Roller - GET ONE! If you want to have as little trouble as possible with air bubbles and de-lamination, rollers are your FRIEND. My opinion, get one of these barrel rollers and if you think you'll be doing inside corners, a corner roller too.
Barrel & Corner Rollers: TAP Plastics
Resin brands - repeat after me. Say NO to Bondo!!! Their resin has wax in it, which must be sanded down between layers. Compared to other resins, is not as nice to work with, it is very thick and does not wet out fiberglass very easily. Nearly any other brands of resin will be fine, however these are recommended.
US Composites - B440
TAP Plastics Structural Lay-up Resin (Yellow container) <- this is what I use.
Fiberglast.com #77 Polyester Molding Resin
Resin hand pump - Good idea. Most dispense 1 CC of fluid at a time.
MEKP Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide - This is the hardening agent for resin and gel coat. Use whatever comes with the resin or what ever the vendor sells.
Styrene Monomer - To be used as a resin and gel coat thinner. Do not use acetone.
Chop stand mat (CSM) Prep. - If you are going to be glassing a large section of something that has any curve to it, do yourself a BIG favor and rip your mat into smaller manageable sections. 4x4 or 6x6 squares are best. When you lay them down, overlap the torn edges. Doing this allows the chop mat to conform to contours better than 1 large piece of CSM.
Applying CSM to sharp corners or curves - IF you aren't making a mold of something or if you wont be removing the fiberglass after it's applied you can try this. A very light coat of spray glue on what ever surface you are glassing to will hold the mat in place while you are applying resin.
If you are going to be removing it, try this. Prepare all of your CSM or whatever first. Theh, mix a hot batch of resin, say... 10 - 12 drops of mekp per cc of resin. Paint it on to your surface. Depending on ambient temperature, 80 and above, it may begin to kick within 5 -10 minutes. Once it starts to kick and is sticky, apply your mat. This will hold it in place for your next go around with resin.
Floral Foam - If you are going to make a custom part that will need to be formed or carved, but not it great detail, floral foam is your buddy. You can find it at Joann fabrics pretty easily and some craft stores. If they sell silk flowers, they probably sell this too. Floral foam cuts and sands VERY easily. I use a hack saw to get rough shapes, then 80 grit sand paper to do the rest. You need to have a light hand when sanding this though, it comes off real easy. Once you have your desired shape, start glassing. You can fiber glass right over the top of it. However you will have to dig out the foam when you are done.
Foam in a can - This stuff can be useful as well but there are a few things to be aware of.
1. You cannot glass right over this stuff, the resin will eat the foam.
2. It does not expand uniformly, you will have to over-fill and cut/sand back to the shape you want.
3. It doesn't cut or sand and nicely as floral foam.
4. If you get it on your skin, its a pain to get off. Grab the replacetone. If you get it on your clothes, buy new clothes.
2 part expanding foam - This you can glass right over. It is sold in a Part A and Part B configuration. Mix equal parts and pour. Stand back. It sands easier than foam in a can, but still not as good as floral foam.
Thats all for now. Possibly more to come later.Thanks for reading.
Fiberglass resin does not stick very well to tin foil or plastic wrap. I have used both of these as a separating agent if I am making a mold of something.
PVA and carnuba wax in combination is a better idea. Apply at least 5 layers of wax to the surface(s) of whatever you are going to copy. Apply several thin coats of PVA to the waxed surfaces. A cheap spray gun can be picked up anywhere, harbor freight.
Chip brushes - If you cut the bristles so that they are about 1/2" to 3/4" long, it helps to push the mat into the resin.
Fiberglass Roller - GET ONE! If you want to have as little trouble as possible with air bubbles and de-lamination, rollers are your FRIEND. My opinion, get one of these barrel rollers and if you think you'll be doing inside corners, a corner roller too.
Barrel & Corner Rollers: TAP Plastics
Resin brands - repeat after me. Say NO to Bondo!!! Their resin has wax in it, which must be sanded down between layers. Compared to other resins, is not as nice to work with, it is very thick and does not wet out fiberglass very easily. Nearly any other brands of resin will be fine, however these are recommended.
US Composites - B440
TAP Plastics Structural Lay-up Resin (Yellow container) <- this is what I use.
Fiberglast.com #77 Polyester Molding Resin
Resin hand pump - Good idea. Most dispense 1 CC of fluid at a time.
MEKP Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide - This is the hardening agent for resin and gel coat. Use whatever comes with the resin or what ever the vendor sells.
Styrene Monomer - To be used as a resin and gel coat thinner. Do not use acetone.
Chop stand mat (CSM) Prep. - If you are going to be glassing a large section of something that has any curve to it, do yourself a BIG favor and rip your mat into smaller manageable sections. 4x4 or 6x6 squares are best. When you lay them down, overlap the torn edges. Doing this allows the chop mat to conform to contours better than 1 large piece of CSM.
Applying CSM to sharp corners or curves - IF you aren't making a mold of something or if you wont be removing the fiberglass after it's applied you can try this. A very light coat of spray glue on what ever surface you are glassing to will hold the mat in place while you are applying resin.
If you are going to be removing it, try this. Prepare all of your CSM or whatever first. Theh, mix a hot batch of resin, say... 10 - 12 drops of mekp per cc of resin. Paint it on to your surface. Depending on ambient temperature, 80 and above, it may begin to kick within 5 -10 minutes. Once it starts to kick and is sticky, apply your mat. This will hold it in place for your next go around with resin.
Floral Foam - If you are going to make a custom part that will need to be formed or carved, but not it great detail, floral foam is your buddy. You can find it at Joann fabrics pretty easily and some craft stores. If they sell silk flowers, they probably sell this too. Floral foam cuts and sands VERY easily. I use a hack saw to get rough shapes, then 80 grit sand paper to do the rest. You need to have a light hand when sanding this though, it comes off real easy. Once you have your desired shape, start glassing. You can fiber glass right over the top of it. However you will have to dig out the foam when you are done.
Foam in a can - This stuff can be useful as well but there are a few things to be aware of.
1. You cannot glass right over this stuff, the resin will eat the foam.
2. It does not expand uniformly, you will have to over-fill and cut/sand back to the shape you want.
3. It doesn't cut or sand and nicely as floral foam.
4. If you get it on your skin, its a pain to get off. Grab the replacetone. If you get it on your clothes, buy new clothes.
2 part expanding foam - This you can glass right over. It is sold in a Part A and Part B configuration. Mix equal parts and pour. Stand back. It sands easier than foam in a can, but still not as good as floral foam.
Thats all for now. Possibly more to come later.Thanks for reading.
