Clutches

[Brett Proctor]

One thing that I have a low tolerance for is stupid talk and Peter reached that level.

Because it doesn't matter a toss what engine and gearbox you have, what is in between is what matters and I was just saying that with (1700 Lb pressure plate, etc), my set it works well with a similar output, Dam, it's not like I'm asking to be paid for the post!*pbpbpbp!*

To think that the engine and gearbox doesn't matter when choosing a clutch is just stupid talk to me.

You can check out any manufacturer of clutches and they want to know the application, Engine Torque, clutch size among other things to get the right clutch for the vehicle.

I don't expect you to believe me so here are a couple articals on choosing a clutch for you car

Basics of the Clutch - Car Craft Magazine All Pages

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xbqa9L4QCUM"]How to Pick the Right Street Clutch - Centerforce University Series - YouTube[/ame]

KEP has 4 different clutches for the same engine/gear box combo's. Center force has 3 options for the same engine/gear box. You have to ask the question , why

There's alot more involved with clutches but anyone can search the web and find answers

It took me two months to come up with this politically correct rebuttal. All other versions I'm sure Rick would have deleted


If you think I'm wrong about this let me know(please post the source) but the info out there says I'm not.

 

[CyCo]

Sure it matters. In mine I've always had a 1800 Heavy Duty Kombi clutch, which when paired with my 1.8 ea82 turbo Scooby motor, worked perfectly fine.The clutch wasn't to heavy or too light. Now, with my aftermarket gearbox (Rancho IRS Pro Street Beetle 'box), I've put the same clutch into the gearbox. Will see how that goes.

 

[Peter]

I agree, of course it matters, but if there is one thing I have found on the Stirling forum is that on that side of the pond you guys go way deeper into things then we do, also chuck cash at problems more and fit stupid big gas gussling engines, but hey, each unto their own and each can say what they want, isn't that why 14 million people died in WW2.

 

[letterman7]

Well... I think that of course there are a number of possible combinations that can be fitted depending on your final drivedrain configuration. It's up to the builder to determine what may work for them - sometime it may take two or three iterations until the most comfortable and reliable combination is found.

That said, before the discussion dissolves into a pissing match, this thread is locked. Any particular pertinent questions on clutches in your own build can be started in a new thread.

 

[Brett Proctor]

Well since Rick was nice enough to unlock this post let me post what I had before it was locked.

KEP has 4 different clutches for the Subaru/VW swap. From what I can tell its all based on the HP of the Subaru engine.
Now it just so happens that when I bought the adapter kit it was off of craigs list and the guy had a stage 4 clutch for the swap. The stage 4 clutch is rated for over 300 hp I think and the stock Subaru NA is rated at 165 hp.

Well that stage 4 was so hard to disengage I had a hard time with it using the stock clutch linage.

My main concern here was that my wife (maybe 120lbs)wants to drive the car. there is no way she could disengage the clutch in stock form.

So a call to KEP and they suggested the stage 2 clutch. I said ok do it. Well after some thought and looking at the specs for their clutches I called them back and asked why a stage 2 clutch when a stage 1 would do the job(remember I need as light a clutch as possible for the wife to drive the car). The gal asked if any mods were done to the engine or will be and I said no it will remain stock. She told me yes a stage 1 will work. The clutch is in the car now and the feel is great. The wife should have no problems with it.


Why they tried selling me a stage 2 clutch and not asking me what the application was going to be is a mystery to me.

But back to the whole reason of the post. It does matter what the engine and the HP is to match the clutch up right. Even though the stage 4 clutch would work it was way more than what I needed and it was a pain in the ass to push in the clutch pedal.
Getting more than you need can create problems and cause excessive ware on the crank

 

[Peter]

Good to hear that is sorted and the wife can put the pedal to the metal, so to speak, (120Lbs, lucky you).
Are you using cable or hydraulic clutch pedal, if cable, the change to a hydraulic slave is amazing, so much lighter.
a hydraulic master, SouthSpeed (JamarWilwood etc) slave on a Saco billet bracket. light and Smooooth.

 

[Brett Proctor]

I'm using the stock cable operated system.

The thought of putting in a hydraulic clutch did cross my mind but I have enough happening on this car that I didn't need another project on it, plus I didn't want to use the stage 4 clutch(aside from that it was over kill) because of the extra forces it puts on the crank and the stage 1 clutch has the same feel as a stock VW clutch so I should be good

If I remember right, a wise man once told me that I have to draw the line some where and get this thing back on the road.*laugh*

Good to hear that is sorted and the wife can put the pedal to the metal, so to speak, (120Lbs, lucky you).
Are you using cable or hydraulic clutch pedal, if cable, the change to a hydraulic slave is amazing, so much lighter.
a hydraulic master, SouthSpeed (JamarWilwood etc) slave on a Saco billet bracket. light and Smooooth.

 

[Peter]

*laugh* I drew that line years ago, problem is I keep stepping over it *nothing to see*

Wisdom is not knowing everything but knowing where to find the answers, (my dad)
and
Experience is the name man gives to his mistakes.*idea didn't work*

Throw enough ideas at a problem and one of them will stick, even though you might hate the rest.