Cimbria SS

[nbb350]

Thank you for your detailed reply! Those seats look SO narrow, but they're still too wide for my car (and I really love how the headrest tilts forward).
This goes to show just how LITTLE room we have with dropped pans in the factory chassis...I would need 16.5" max to fit.
Your custom chassis has many advantages!!

 

[Brett Proctor]

I would need 16.5" max to fit.

You should be able to make bases for those Corvette Seats to fit

This is from the molds I made for my Corvette seats

Front measures 16.25"

Rear measures 17.25 ( floor has a taper to it)

I removed the recline mechanism to allow more room for the floor cushions. I did have to persuade the floor cushion to fit because the new base is narrower than the oem base, but it needed no trimming and I used the oem back shell with no modifications however I did make spacers so I could bolt it up to the modified hinge mechanism.
This has been noted in other posts so sorry for the repeat.

 

[nbb350]

Yeah, I already went a ways down that path. I bought two C4 seats and the recline mechanisms were rusted/broken. Not a lot of options up here in the RustBelt. I've already made heavy mods to my current seats, which now only need pretty seat covers. BUT, if there was a drop-in option, I'd rather go that route.

 

[Brett Proctor]

The pick a part yards here have a few Corvettes in them

Things don't rust in this neck of the woods. I can check to see if the seats are still there.

The cushions probably are not there but the hinges might be.
I can get those for you, if you want to go with the corvette seats.
Have no idea what shipping would be for something like that or what the yards would want for them.

Just throwing that out there.

 

[sector]

Installed Holley in-tank fuel pump and mounted the fuel tank. The straps holding the tank were formed from 1" stainless steel banding materials. Now waiting for the fittings to connect fuel lines.

 

[Brett Proctor]

Your putting a lot of time and money into this project, I was just wondering if you've done any maintenance to the engine to make sure its in good working order.

Don't know how many miles are on the engine but its recommended to replace the timing belt and its components every 60,000 miles.

Also read that there can be issues with oil supply to the turbo causing premature turbo failure.

There are other things but I thought since its easy to get to the engine, now would be a good time to look at these things if not already done.

 

[sector]

The engine is new old stock. It only had dyno time. I got it from the co-worker for a symbolic fee (paid for the storage unit while he was moving). It was purchased brand new back in 2003, to be used in the airplane application, but it did not fit so it sat in the storage until few years ago, when I got it. I took it apart and replaced every single seal and a belt just for precautionary reasons.

 

[Brett Proctor]

You didn't say what belt you replaced
Got this off the web so you don't think its just my opinion.


6-7 years
When an engine is not in use for an extended period, such as when it sits for a long time, the timing belt can still wear out over time due to natural degradation of the belt material. Manufacturers often recommend replacing the timing belt every 6-7 years, regardless of mileage, to prevent potential engine damage. This is because rubber components like the timing belt deteriorate chemically due to heat cycling, exposure to oil vapors, and simple aging. Therefore, even if the mileage threshold has not been reached, it is essential to consider the belt's age and replace it if it has been sitting for more than 5 or 6 years.

The reason I'm bring this up is that the engine is an interference engine. Just hate to see something happen (that's avoidable) after all the work you've done.

 

[sector]

Yes, all belts, including timing belt were replaced. I even replaced the head gasket just to be on the safe side.