Cimbria SS

[Brett Proctor]

Thanks for that info. I'll look into this. The other option is to mount condenser behind the engine like in DeTomaso Pantera. I do have sufficient space behind the engine so that might just work out. This way it will be right next to the engine just like in the Subaru and will allow me to use existing condenser tubing.

If thats your only option then go for it, but after doing some research on Pantera forums that location has its issues and the Pantera has an opening in the back of the body so the fan can draw air in.
On the Pantera forums the issue seems to be that the oem fan can't draw enough air through the condenser and modifications to the fan shroud to accept a larger fan or fans is their solution.

But Cutting an opening in the back to accept a condenser would make me look for other options before I cut into the car. If you decide to go this route I'm sure you can make it a clean install. The Pantera shows that this location will work.

 

[sector]

Brett, what is the incline angle of your condenser?

 

[Brett Proctor]

 

[farfegnubbin]

This is a great piece of evidence to have. Back when you were first working on that area of your car I was really worried your condenser was too flat. But now we know! Apparently we can get away with at least 20 degrees(ish.) Thank you for measuring that.

 

[sector]

I took some additional measurements and looks like I can also keep condenser in the front but tilt it at larger angle than radiator as there is space in the front air plenum to do so. If top of the condenser almost touches the radiator and bottom almost touches the aluminum floor, the angle come out to 27 degrees, which is per Brett's measurement should be sufficient for the standard condenser.
Also, I did some additional research on this topic and there are many companies making condensers for horizontal installation.
But I probably would just stay with standard condenser either at the front or the back of the car.

 

[farfegnubbin]

If you really can get yours over 20 degrees it seems like you’ll be fine.

That’s cool and interesting to know that there are special condensers that are engineered to work flat. That opens up other possibilities (on other projects, etc.)

 

[sector]

Routed front-to-back cooling pipes. I went with 1 3/4" aluminum tubing. Heated tubing with propane torch and bend it into shape with pipe bender.

 

[sector]

Also installed shifter linkage. I used two stainless steel universal joints and 5/8" aluminum rod. Modified T-handle shifter by cutting off the top section and tapping M10 thread. Installed stainless threaded rod and screwed on a shifter knob. The shifter throws are very short and precise. Feel really good.

 

[sector]

Here is a quick video

 

[Brett Proctor]

I have a concern with the location of the inlet and outlet at the radiator.
The coolant lines will have to make a "U" turn to tie into what you have.
Perfect spot for air to get trapped. Might be hard to bleed the air out of the system.
You probably have some solution already figured out.
From past experiences I found out that a cars water pump will not self prime without help

On my car I had to drive it around with no thermostat for a while to get all the air out of the system. Before that I had a problem with it overheating. (air trapped in the system) And I had no "U" bends in the system.

 

[farfegnubbin]

I love how tight that shifter seems to be. Your whole car seems like it’ll be a nice tight ride.

Random question: How close does your front wheel come to the cooling tubes in a turn? I’m asking because I think mine will be routed in a very similar way and that’s the only area I’m worried about.

 

[sector]

Brett,
Can you elaborate on the statement about the coolant pipes U turn. I am not sure I fully understand what you mean.

Farfegnubbin,
At full lock I have about 1" of clearance between tire and the coolant pipe.

 

[Brett Proctor]

I don't know your plans for connecting the lines to the radiator so I don't know if this will be an issue

On my car the header tanks are on the side of the radiator and my feed lines come in from the bottom and I still had trouble purging the air from the system. The coolant flows across not top to bottom. From what I've read this design is more efficient. ( I may be wrong but that's what I remember reading)

I do know a cars water pump will not self prime. any air in the system will cause cavitation and the pump wont circulate the coolant.

Had a boat once and it had a Volvo inboard engine in it. It had 2 water pumps in it. One for bringing the water up to the engines water pump and then the engines water pump would circulate the lakes water through the engine.
Without that first water pump to feed the engines water pump, water wouldn't get to the engine. Even going 30 mph across the lake the engines water pump still wouldn't prime itself and circulate the water from the lake.

 

[sector]

I plan to rout cooling hoses in between upper and lower frame as opposed to over the top frame, but your overall concept is correct. This layout is what is implemented in 100's of Factory Five Racing 818 kit cars that use subaru drivetrain, so hopefully it will not be too bad. Based on my research, the main issue with purging subaru cooling system, has to do with air being trapped in the upper cooling manifold. There are few solutions for that and some are described in this post:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18090-VCP-Cooling-System-Mod

So for now I will continue with this approach, but I greatly appreciated you input. I will definitely report on my outcome.

 

[Brett Proctor]

Sounds good

Turbo engines run hotter than NA (normally aspirated) engines.