A few month ago I purchased Cimbria SS from Florida and had it shipped to NY. I purchased the car site-on-seen and considering the price I paid, the overall condition was not as expected, including the cracked windshield. But I do like many custom touches that were added to the car. My plan is to strip the paint, address few issues, make some improvements/custom touches and install new divertrain which I already have.
Cimbria SS
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Finally I got a chance to do some work. I disassembled the car and began stripping paint. Next part I will be working on is my roof. My car already has 1" steel tubes glassed into the pillars and across top of the windshield. So my next step will be building an aluminum roof structure similar to delorean roof box.
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I was under impression that Cimbria bodies had gelcoat over fiberglass resin? But as I continue with sending I notice that grey coating over fiberglass looks more like an ordinary primer. In fact I have many area now that have clear fiberglass. So my question is, what is the proper finish over fiberglass; gelcoat, polyester primer, expoxy primer or something else? Please advise.
letterman7
Honorary Admin
Gelcoat is typically a color coat only over fiberglass. It's there to protect the virgin glass/resin mix. Gel does not always have to be used depending on the quality of the fiberglass; early Corvettes were gel coated until '57 when it was much easier to paint the glass after applying a typical epoxy primer coat. So goes with the cars - what you're sanding through is a primer coat and will need to be replaced. My Aquila is still in it's factory primer - it has no protective gelcoat. Since you (or I) don't know what the base primer is, the safest direction is an industry standard polyester or epoxy primer. It doesn't matter which - both are created to cover unknown bodywork. A polyester primer will sand easier while an epoxy primer will create a slightly harder surface. Personally I have no preference. I've used both, but my go-to for simplicity is the polyester.
Peter
Active member
Not sure if this is a late or early Cimbria as it is different in small ways to the others I have seen on here and is closer to the VW version of the Eagle SS, like the nose vents, (where I have my daylight running LEDs), the ribs on the bonnet and boot etc. Don't know what to make of the large 'hole' in the rear valance, type 3 engine fitted maybe? Why the huge scoop on the rear deck, obviously not a VW lump under there. I'm liking the body mods as in side skirts and flairs to the front and rear.
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letterman7
Honorary Admin
Torsion bars and spring plates got moved. No worries, it'll settle back down once you roll it a little bit.
letterman7
Honorary Admin
Nope. When you jacked up the car, all the suspension bits in the back just moved out of position. Once the car is rolled a few yards (like up and down a driveway), the suspension should settle back into place. Perfectly normal for a VW.
ydeardorff
New member
A very easy way to remedy that is a set of greased wheel slider plates. When the car is dropped back down, the two plates slide over each other allowing the wheels to come to rest perfectly as if it wasn't ever lifted up.
Its an old trick, but works well.
Brett Proctor
Well-known member
What Subaru engine are you installing??
Brett Proctor
Well-known member
If that transaxle is stock, you do know how low its geared.
Stock gearing on a 6 rib transaxle is 4.56 ratio. Thats lower then the lowest in a type1 transaxle
If you do the math on it that would put the engine rpm's at 4,500rpms at a highway speed of 70mph(roughly)
Brett
Brett Proctor
Well-known member
4.56 revolutions at the input shaft would give you 1 revolution at the axles
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yubcxmidj5g
Did a search for other R&P's for that transaxle but came up empty. Maybe someone here knows a place that would have them.
I would try to change that if its possible. Thats geared way to low for the Subaru engine
oops I messed up I think. You would have to have it in 4th gear when you check it
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