Car #069

[ratrog64]

8.31.19 & 9.1.19

A few hours Saturday was spend on the interior. I finished up the rear harness and seat support bar and worked on the rear shelf area. I also got a little closer on the center console fit.

Sunday started with the dash. I figured I'd start with something easy and relaxing. I really like the race car style dashes I have seen in many vintage GT40's. This is my attempt. Not done, but close.





From there I concentrated on the front end of the car. I wanted to get the front end as close as possible to done. I needed to get the alignment close so I can finish weld the steering quick disconnect. I've never had a professional front end alignment on a VW before. I've always been able to get real close with a long straight edge and a tape measure. This time is no different.

I also mocked up my side markers and front turn signals. The markers are because I know some states require them and I'd like this car to be able to go anywhere in the future and be legal, or darn close. The front turn signals I used because I have seen the beehive style on several cars from the 60's and 70's (plus I had some in stock). I will also be using the polycarb covers over the headlights.



Next I started to modify a pedal assembly. I needed to shorten them slightly and angle them more toward the driver. I just lap them over on the left side. This gives me 2 sides to weld and also moves them over to the left slightly to allow more room between the brake pedal and gas pedal. This worked well in the #114 car. I'll get them welded up today and cleaned up ready for install. Also had to make a new pedal stop and get it in place. The accelerator pedal will just be a roller style like I have used in the past.

 

[ratrog64]

9.2.19 Labor Day

Spent the entire day on wiring. 12 hrs worth and still have a lot more to do. This time I am going to keep track of just how many hours it takes to completely rewire a Sterling. No photos, nothing exciting to report.

 

[ratrog64]

9.7.19 & 9.8.19

Wiring continues, probably have another 6 hours into it.

I started plumbing up the canopy, still waiting on a fitting before I can test it.

I made some brackets for my rear taillights. Keeping them simple and inexpensive. These use 1157 bulbs. I didn't want LED since I'm trying to make it a vintage recreation. I like the simplicity of the 917 Porsche Gulf Racing car. This is my version for the Sterling.











Did a bunch of other misc. things over the weekend as well.

 

[sector]

Very neat.

 

[ratrog64]

9.11.19

Been putting in a couple hours each night after work. Nothing major done just little things here and there. Tonight I finished up my plumbing for the top and got the seats sprayed out with epoxy primer. One seat I will use to make a mold from. I need two seats for this car since the 2 original seats will be used in car #S068. Tomorrow I will pick up some jack oil so I can test my system.

Something I said I wasn't going to do but just couldn't help myself, I ordered all new gauges. Originally I just wanted it to look good but I have decided if I'm going to work this hard on it I might as well make sure it all works perfectly. GPS driven Speedo, new 7k Tach, new Volt meter and Oil pressure gauge with a new sending unit. I spent a lot of time looking for best prices and still spent about $550. It will be worth it in the long run. I also ordered a fuel tank today.

 

[ratrog64]

9.13.19

Work continues at a steady pace. Working on the car every chance I get. I finished and tested the plumbing. After replacing one leaking fitting, everything seems good to go.

I disassembled the lifting arms to alter, sand and get ready for paint. I had to change the stud where the cylinder attached to an 8mm x 1.25 to match the cylinder. Minor repair was also needed to the base plate where the side plate had come off the bracket. Most everything was sanded back to metal, etch primed, and is ready for priming and paint. I will test it fully before I paint everything to ensure the cylinders will work with a full load on them. I can't imagine they won't be ok but ya just never know.

Wiring continues! I know I said I was going to keep track, but I just keep doing a hour or two here and there. I'm still waiting on indicator lights and a usb port to call the dash done. I will test the harness once it is complete before paint.

Motor ..... I have 3 choices. I have a freshly built 1776 and 1915, both that I built, and the motor I got from Brian when I bought the car. I'm trying to get this car finished before BugJam in November. The 1776 I built has never been run. The 1915 has been run and had its cam run in. I don't know anything about the guy who helped Brian build his motor, so a complete disassembly will be a smart thing to do. I think being that the theme of the car is a vintage race car, bigger is better! I'll have to do a carb swap and replace the dual Kadrons with a pair of Dellortos, change around the tins and install the exhaust. I think that will require the least amount of time for a motor I know will run good. I had other plans for the 1915, but oh well, nothing is ever etched in stone!







It's no Porsche but, it is a Sterling after all. A Gulf-Sterling even! *laugh*



Also got the pedals welded up. I couldn't for the life of me get the pedals apart to replace the brake pedal return spring! Copious amounts of heat and penetrating oil didn't help even a little. And to think, they are only 45 or so years old. I can't imagine why they wouldn't come apart. Note to self: Next time try and disassemble the pedals before you cut and weld them. I'm to far along now to grab another set and start over. I guess I'll have to come up with another solution. No worries.

 

[ratrog64]

9.14.19

Started out the morning bolting the body to the pan and then adding a pedal return spring to the pedals. Then it was up to the shop as Saturdays are often work on Rays Car days. I've got his front end up on jack stands and while doing some sanding I noticed some bouncing of the nose. We decided to make what the UK boys call a flopper stopper. Seemed to do the trick nicely. After spending a few hours on Rays car I got back to the garage and made one for the #S069 car too. A little different then we made his but some basic idea. Not the prettiest welds I've ever done. But figuring where and how I was welding it not too bad.

 

[Nic]

Are you leaving the engine exposed like the Porsche 917?

 

[ratrog64]

Are you leaving the engine exposed like the Porsche 917?

Yes Sir. Other then the tins etc, what you see is what you get.

 

[ratrog64]

9.18.19

Finished up a little body work on the dash tonight then sprayed out 3 heavy coats of high build primer. Since it was mostly black it was tough to see the pin holes in the glass. Now with the primer I will go back and fill in a bunch of pin holes and block it out.





I have been working a little less on the car the last few days since my hip (which I broke in Feb) has been giving me some grief.

 

[sector]

I'd say it's a great progress.

 

[ratrog64]

9.19.19

Thanks!

So on Sunday I had finished my hydraulics and was testing the system. I had the valve leak and I blew a line. Before I was done I also blew a seal on the top of one of the cylinders. Very disappointing day to say the least. At $15 each I was hopeful the cheap air cylinders would work but it didn't take long before it failed. The line that I blew I think was my own fault by just doing to much. I was testing the cylinders without the top on the arms. Its hard to know when to let off when you are not watching a top go up and down. Or maybe its just the lines are not adequate. I'm using air brake lines. Working pressure of 150 psi but are supposed to have a burst rate at like 1200 psi. Or at least that is what I remember I read. Needless to say, its all got to go. On Sunday night I got on line and ordered up a bunch of new stuff. New Speedair 1-1/16" air cylinders and a bunch of new fitting. New cylinders are about $60 each and I'm doing the plumbing a little different and eliminating 4 connections.

Tonight, I ripped everything out! Starting over with all new stuff. Still going to use the brake hose because I just couldn't find anything else. It has the same DOT #s as whats in the #114 car and I haven't had any problems with it. The bottom pivot on the cylinder is facing a different direction so I had to make a new bottom bracket too. I got about a 1/3 of the way there tonight and hope to finish up tomorrow.





The new bottom bracket was made from a 6" strap hinge. I think its really going to work out well.





You can also see the limit stops I installed on Sunday. This will prevent the top from going past that point of no return.



I wasted about $100 in line, cylinders, fittings and God only knows how many hours. It will be well worth it in the long run if the new set up works well and is repeatable in the next couple of cars. Maybe it can help a few future builders as well.

 

[letterman7]

Nice looking cylinder. Did you use those on 114 as well? We'll be needing a decent source for cylinders.. I have a few bookmarked, but are unfamiliar with Speedaire.

 

[ratrog64]

Nice looking cylinder. Did you use those on 114 as well? We'll be needing a decent source for cylinders.. I have a few bookmarked, but are unfamiliar with Speedaire.

I didn't change the cylinders on #114. I still have the original Parkers including the bent passenger side *laugh*.

I got the speedair through ZORO. https://www.zoro.com/speedaire-air-cylinder-8-in-stroke-12-34-in-l-ncdmc106-0800/i/G2962547/

Only thing is the bottom hole faces the same direction as the fittings. That's why I had to make the new bottom pivot / bracket. I'm not disappointed though because not only does it pivot Front to Back, but it will also pivot on the bottom hole side to side. I think its going to work perfect. Beside that, the hinges were only about $5 each. I think they are 12 or 14 gauge steel so should be plenty stout.

Speaking of #114, where did you get the hydraulic line and what is it?

 

[letterman7]

The hydraulic lines were from the local hydraulic store along with the fittings. IIRC it was 1/4" compression fittings to the lines, which were some sort of plastic. Wasn't expensive stuff by any means. But who knows what was put in if it were changed after my ownership - I know that ram wasn't bent when it was sold...

 

[ratrog64]

The hydraulic lines were from the local hydraulic store along with the fittings. IIRC it was 1/4" compression fittings to the lines, which were some sort of plastic. Wasn't expensive stuff by any means. But who knows what was put in if it were changed after my ownership - I know that ram wasn't bent when it was sold...

Sounds like its the same line I am using. I did get some #'s off the line in #114 which ref an air line used for air brakes / jake brakes in trucks. Everything is 3/8" compression fitting with 1/4" NPT. I guess the moral of the story will be - don't let the marine pump run to long and build up too much pressure. Next test will be with the canopy attached to the lift arms.

 

[letterman7]

Yeah.. the marine pumps can be fairly powerful. But, they're fast and have a built in locking mechanism which is why I used it. And we'll be offering those as standard along with the "regular" convertible top pumps if people want them.

 

[ratrog64]

9.21.19

So I don't think I mentioned before about how the body was twisted on the chassis. I think when the new support structure and pans were welded in things were a little off. This made the top fit poorly, the left front tire rub and overall a poor appearance. I ended up having to shim the body up on the front left side 3/4" to zero at the rear. This was accomplished with exterior grade 3/4" plywood. Saturday, I got around to finishing up the job and getting the pans sealed up. This was all done with Transstar seam sealer. I love this stuff!, I have used it many times when replacing floor pans. Its expensive, but well worth it.











Even started going around the inside to smooth out some of the lumpy welds.

 

[ratrog64]

9.21.19 & 9.22.19

Got my front cross bar sanded, etch primed and painted on Saturday. I'm trying to get as much of the inside done as possible. I also get the rear cross bar painted.

Sunday I started off with a few hours getting the dash blocked out and the final pin holes etc. dialed in. Its looking really nice now. All it needs now is a sealer coat and paint!

I painted the rear cargo area with some textured bedliner in a can paint. After a few hours I was able to put it back together. I also fitted and mounted the driver seat to the floor and the rear cross bar. This thing is solid as a rock. These Cimbria seats are pretty comfortable. I'm thinking if you have a great big ass you might not think so, but for me they are perfect. I also got a little ahead of my self and cut some front rubber mats. I used 3/4" rubber horse stall mat. Makes for a nice heavy duty floor once the rubber tire smell goes away. I've had a piece laying around for a couple of years left over from a dune buggy project. Oh and I also got the shifter sorted out. New shift coupler and tested out the gears. All seems good! This means I can get my center console ready for installation. E-brake is next. Productive few days even though I quit early because I am exhausted.













Oh and I deleted the locating peg. This so made the top fit much better. The pegs were forcing the top to far forward. It was binding and keeping the top from fully closing at the rear. I screwed around for a couple of hours shimming and adjusting the lift arms to no avail. I don't believe this was the original top for this car. It works beautifully now!

 

[sector]

By having the body sealed like that to the chassis, what do you do if you have to take it off in the future?