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Car #069

ratrog64

Well-known member
Oh, kind of like I did.

Inside



Outside

Very nice! I like what you did there.

I made a mold of an original style tunnel. I just didn't like how it is finished at the rear of the car. The tunnel for my #310 car was plastic and broken. The tunnels I got with 068 and 069 are fiberglass.
 

ratrog64

Well-known member
7.23.19

A few hours in the garage after work. I did a few fiberglass repairs to the mounting lip on pass side pod and a repair to drivers side pod. I also spent some time on the under nose section installing the vent screens.

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ratrog64

Well-known member
7.29.19

Was away for the weekend so no garage time. Missed it!

Half day today after work. Worked on drivers side lower pod, ground effect, then shot some more primer.

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Still need to install vent screen n driver side lower pod.
 

ratrog64

Well-known member
7.30.19

Change of plans! *laugh*

Well I have decided to not go with the roadster top and instead I'm using a full roof. The paint theme I want to do just doesn't work for me as a roadster. So out came the sander and I went to town. Spent a few hours after work and got a good start on it.

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Photos were taken early on as I worked well into the dark. Filled a few screw holes and did lots of hand work around the side window and windshield opening.
 

ratrog64

Well-known member
8.4.19

I've had family visiting since Wed and gotten zero garage time until this afternoon.
I added my roof scoop that I made for the #114 car and never used. The hope is that the scoop draws warm air from inside the cabin when the car is under motion. I made a hole in the center of the handle area and there will be one in the headliner. I like the way it looks so if it doesn't work I'm not disappointed. I also worked on the drivers side window and windshield opening.

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letterman7

Honorary Admin
That's not too far off from the original canopy design on the Nova, which had 2 recessed grilles on either side of the handle. There were 2 interior grilles on either side of the center "spine" on the canopy top that were open (the canopy being hollow, of course). Incoming air, theoretically, from the dash vent would be drawn through those inside grilles (past the occupant's face) and out the exterior grilles. Rain and wash water coming in from the outside would be directed through the canopy angles and down the "locating pins", which traditionally had holes drilled in the bottoms, matching holes drilled in the body shell locating recesses. Pretty good idea... nobody really has any idea if it worked or not!
 

ratrog64

Well-known member
That's not too far off from the original canopy design on the Nova, which had 2 recessed grilles on either side of the handle. There were 2 interior grilles on either side of the center "spine" on the canopy top that were open (the canopy being hollow, of course). Incoming air, theoretically, from the dash vent would be drawn through those inside grilles (past the occupant's face) and out the exterior grilles. Rain and wash water coming in from the outside would be directed through the canopy angles and down the "locating pins", which traditionally had holes drilled in the bottoms, matching holes drilled in the body shell locating recesses. Pretty good idea... nobody really has any idea if it worked or not!

I never noticed this on a Nova. Makes sense and is a good way to get some fresh air in and out. I'm doing poly-carbonate side windows and will install some aircraft snap vents. Not sure if I'll do anything else about getting fresh air in. The side windows will be out most of the time just like I do with #114.
 

ratrog64

Well-known member
8.6.19

Another change of plans. Originally I wanted to leave the front under nose as a bolt on piece. Since it did not fit quite as nice as I would like I decided to bond it in place. After getting it secured there was some more dialing in to make it as good as I can get it. Should be real nice now.

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Having the nose attached feels like a big step toward completion. Was worth the 5 or so hours it took to accomplish!
 

ratrog64

Well-known member
8.10.19 Wheelwell

Spent the morning hours plumbing up some new airlines in the garage. Supposed to be taking it easy since I have had a minor surgery on my right shoulder. After cleaning up the garage some I decided to work on the drivers side wheel well. I had to mount the trans and an engine with one of the exhaust systems I might use in order to check clearances.

First I made a cardboard template. Next step was trimming up a scrap of old glass to fit the area. After securing the new piece in place I cut two pieces of 1.5oz mat to fit the area. I protected everything else with tape then it was time to get messy. I will be adding 1 layer of mat to the other side as well.

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One down 1 to go. I've done the same to the #114 and #068 cars and really like how it looks. I think it gives the car a more professional and finished look.
 
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ratrog64

Well-known member
8.11.19 Itchy Sunday

Working on the rear engine compartment and wheel wells today.

Passenger side wheel well was done pretty much the same as the drivers side.

I decided instead of doing louvered metal for the rear firewall I'd make it out of fiberglass. Started by making a template with cardboard then transferred the shape to an old piece of glass I salvaged from a boat deck. Cut it out and bolt it into place.

Next started working on the drivers side inside wheel well. Using cardboard for templates and scrap material from the boat. Grinding the inside of the wheel well to get back to glass is a real joy. I'll be itching for the next 3 days. I did get the pieces bonded into place and covered with 1 layer of 1.5oz mat. I'm looking forward to having this area finished!

Passenger side wheel well.

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Firewall.

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The rough shape is cut with a 4 1/2" grinder with a cut off wheel. The balance is cut with an air saw and everything is cleaned up with sanding discs and a small drum sanders on air grinders.

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Driver side inner wheel well.

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The scrap piece is held to the body with some bondo before being glassed in place. The filler is used like a glue to hold the piece but cures in just seconds. Hot glue can also be used in some cases.

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Finished off my Sunday evening with grinding inside the passenger side wheel well. I wanted to get the worst part of the job out of the way and get the shop cleaned up. All I have left to do is make a quick template, cut a scrap piece and glass in with some glass mat.
 
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Nic

Active member
Dang! You been busy, no wonder you're itchy. BTW, liberally apply baby powder to any skin that will be exposed. It helps to seal up your pores and you'll get fewer itches.
 

ratrog64

Well-known member
Dang! You been busy, no wonder you're itchy. BTW, liberally apply baby powder to any skin that will be exposed. It helps to seal up your pores and you'll get fewer itches.

Thanks for the tip, maybe I'll give that a try next time.
I'm so use to it by now that it hardly bother me. I was grinding and doing glass work all day in shorts and a t-shirt. Common sense would say to cover up even but at 95+ degrees in the shop and 90% humidity, covering up is hard to want to do.
 

letterman7

Honorary Admin
Looks good Roger. It's amazing how much of the original engine shroud gets cut away over the years. It never fully enveloped the engine, but still..


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ratrog64

Well-known member
Fiberglass is easy to cut and drill so people have no hesitation of doing so. *thumbs down*

The areas of the wheel wells that I am adding were never there. There were originally those wing like pieces that were horizontal like in your photo. I cut those off myself in order to do what I did. It keeps the rear compartment much cleaner as you don't get as much dirt coming off the rear wheels. It has worked well on the #114 car. I think it just looks better overall anyway.

Is that a recent photo of a body being made by the new company?
 
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