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Another Nova from across the pond saying Hi!

ratrog64

Well-known member
OK cool. So if someone were to want one they would just need to buy a used dash and pop out the removable parts and install in the new molded fiberglass dash surround.

Lost of work but the end results will be so worth it.

You will really need to pay attention when you make the mold from your new plug that it does not get captured onto the plug. You will likely be making a multi piece mold. Are you aware that every opening in the new plastic shell should be closed in for making the plug? This makes laying up the mold much easier and prevents it from getting stuck on the plug if the glass were to fold into the opening. I'm not saying you must do it this way but it is the better way of doing it. Much less risk involved.

The plan (which may change as I have no idea what I'm really getting into *insane*) is to use the plastic shell, plus fibreglass frame of part of the mark 4 dash, plus expanded foam and body filler to make the buck of the final shape. I will then take a mold from that and then male the new all fibreglass dash that the plastic parts (vents, binnacle surround, etc..) will fit into
 

islandman

Member
OK cool. So if someone were to want one they would just need to buy a used dash and pop out the removable parts and install in the new molded fiberglass dash surround.

Lost of work but the end results will be so worth it.

You will really need to pay attention when you make the mold from your new plug that it does not get captured onto the plug. You will likely be making a multi piece mold. Are you aware that every opening in the new plastic shell should be closed in for making the plug? This makes laying up the mold much easier and prevents it from getting stuck on the plug if the glass were to fold into the opening. I'm not saying you must do it this way but it is the better way of doing it. Much less risk involved.

All advice gratefully received as I have never taken on anything of this scale to make a mold this complex. I did make a simply wooden mold for my engine cover, and I hand made my pop-up lights so no mold was involved. So this is totally different for me
 

ratrog64

Well-known member
Believe me my friend I am no expert. I'm sure there are many ways to do it. None of which are easy! *laugh* I guess if it were easy, everyone would do it. I have lost a few projects in molds, one as recent as my speaker surrounds earlier this year. Couldn't get it to release ... into the dumpster it went :( then start over.


All advice gratefully received as I have never taken on anything of this scale to make a mold this complex. I did make a simply wooden mold for my engine cover, and I hand made my pop-up lights so no mold was involved. So this is totally different for me
 

sector

Member
Why not just fit the dash in as is. Just trim slightly above glove box, put edger on the trimmed edge and bolt it in. This way it is complete and stock looking. That is what I am doing with 2001 Subaru Legacy dash.

rps20161130_074347.jpg
 

islandman

Member
The reason is that the Nova is a little bit different from the Cimbria due to the opening canopy, so it has to blend and mate with a front section that dips down to allow for the canopy moldings. Another reason is that its actually too narrow (yes I know that is surprising) so needs to be extended to meet the sides.

I'm still playing with my Subaru dash in my other Nova, I'm hoping to use it as you have but it will still need to be mated to the stock front section and a mold taken from that also.
 

islandman

Member
I ended up pulling off the fiberglass that I laid on the dash as something went wrong with the mix and the resin didn’t set properly. I also took advice I was given that to make sure the dimensions for my buck were correct I would be better making a mold rather than an overlay. So after a bit of coaching from Brett (who I consider to be the guru in this stuff) I decided to attempt to make a mold of the sections I would need (rear and sides) to blend in with the Daihatsu Mira dash. This would have to be a multi-part mold due to the undercut sections. So I spent most of the day preparing the dash to have a mold taken of a section of it. I thought it would be a quick job, but its surprising how long it takes to put the flange down, tape, wax, PVA etc..

The aluminum tape was a good recommendation from Brett, its very sticky and has no issues adhering to the waxed part. I will try to get the Gel coat down tomorrow and first layer of fiberglass if I can, although lots of family errands to run so let's see.

 

islandman

Member
Well after the last disaster of the mix not setting and not wanting to go through the clean up process again I mixed up a batch of gel coat and just let it sit in the pot to see if my mixture ratios were correct. 15 minutes later it was hot and set so that gave me confidence to go ahead.

I laid down the gel coat, let that set then laid down the first layer of 1 ½ oz chopped strand mat. I had wanted 2 oz mat but they didn’t sell it in small quantities. It’s not my best work and it not perfect, but I think its good enough for a first attempt at making a mold. I still need to lay another two layer of mat, probably tomorrow. Then I will take off the flange material and start on the second part of the mold, which is the sides and back.

 

ratrog64

Well-known member
Looks like you are well on your way!
This looks too familiar. Too bad you didn't just have an old dash to cut apart and save this step. No worries, you are getting plenty of practice for the next step in the process. I'm anxious to see what you come up with!
 

Peter

Active member
Why not just fit the dash in as is. Just trim slightly above glove box, put edger on the trimmed edge and bolt it in. This way it is complete and stock looking. That is what I am doing with 2001 Subaru Legacy dash.

View attachment 7899


Love the OEM look that using the whole dash brings to the project and yes, the Nova is a different animal completely to the SS. I only sorry my dash is so far along that I am not changing it for the Subaru one, but it was a close call.
 

islandman

Member
Looks like you are well on your way!
This looks too familiar. Too bad you didn't just have an old dash to cut apart and save this step. No worries, you are getting plenty of practice for the next step in the process. I'm anxious to see what you come up with!

Believe me this is a learning process and I do need the practice. I was so tempted just to cut this dash I have here, but if anything went wrong I have zero reference points left when designing the new dash to make sure everything is where it should be. So I have to preserve it as my fallback plan
 

islandman

Member
Well the sides of the mold are done, and also a small top section at the front so I know where the steering column goes and how high it is. Hopefully I should get the last remaining section of the multi-part mold done today which is the small back strip. The quality of my fibreglass work did deteriorate towards the end as I was rushing a bit and trying to do too much in one go. It's no small feat making a multi-part mold and very time consuming as I'm finding out. Frankly it really makes me appreciate how much fibreglass parts should really cost when you consider the time required to make the part. Obviously if you don't need to produce the mold in the first place the time taken is reduced dramatically.

Pictures will follow once the back is done
 

islandman

Member
Well its done, at least the making of the mold is done to the best of my ability (which may not be saying much). It looks ok I think from the outside, but its really the inside that matters. I plan to let it sit for a couple of days to let all the resin fully set then try to pry it open with all my fingers and toes crossed that it comes away easily and has a nice finish on the inside.

I will drill the holes in the flanges before I split it for the bolts to secure the mold pieces, and I’m also thinking of glassing in a couple of wooden beams into the top section to act as a stand when its upside down and also help prevent any twisting.

 

ratrog64

Well-known member
Looks good from this side!
Lets hope the inside is as good. Don't be afraid to use some wood shims and a hammer if needed to get it off the plug. Not uncommon for it to need a little coaxing.

Great job!
 

islandman

Member
The irony here is that all this work is just to produce a part that will be cut up and combined with another OEM part to then produce a new mold to produce the final part....... So lots of work for a temporary part to the end goal. It better be worth it :worried:
 

islandman

Member
I made up a wooden frame to brace the mold and double as a stand to make it easier to use when producing the part. Hopefully this will stop any flex and twisting of the mold and resulting part. This has now been glassed onto the mold and its pretty much done barring splitting it apart. I’m going overseas for two weeks in a couple of days so haven’t decided whether to take the mold apart before I go or just let it sit until I’m back. Lets see if I have time before I go or not.

 

Brett Proctor

Well-known member
*thumbs up**rock on*

Your getting there.

Just remember that if you have problems getting it to come off, adding water will dissolve the PVA and then the PVA acts like a lubricant, but I can't see you having any problems with that.
 

islandman

Member
Well in the end I couldn’t resist the temptation to take the mold off the dash to see the results before I fly off tomorrow. The sides and back came of fairly easily; the top section took a bit more persuasion but wasn’t too hard.

I learnt a few things in this process: -

1) Move your thumb well out of the way when swinging a rubber mallet against a plastic wedge! (nice big painful bruise on the knuckle to remind me to do that next time)

2) Put more coats of PVA on than you think you need (don’t be lazy and rush). The sides and rear had plenty, the top section didn’t which resulted in some of the original dash gel coat coming away with the new mold. Not much and mainly caused by air voids behind the original parts gel coat.

3) If you want the mold to look perfect the part has to look perfect to start with. My original Mark 4 dash was far from perfect, but as I was making a part to cut up I didn’t see the value in spending time correcting this. Especially as I will have to fill and blend the new Mira dash in with the mark 4 dash surround which means I will need to paint the new buck anyway.

I have bolted the mold back onto the mark 4 dash for now to stop any distortion. I will tidy the mold up and trim it a bit more when I’m back.


 
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Brett Proctor

Well-known member
Well in the end I couldn’t resist the temptation to take the mold off the dash to see the results before I fly off tomorrow

I kind of figured you couldn't wait*laugh*


1) Move your thumb well out of the way when swinging a rubber mallet against a plastic wedge! (nice big painful bruise on the knuckle to remind me to do that next time)

Yes it does help to remove body parts away from area of impact:D


2) Put more coats of PVA on than you think you need (don’t be lazy and rush). The sides and rear had plenty, the top section didn’t which resulted in some of the original dash gel coat coming away with the new mold. Not much and mainly caused by air voids behind the original parts gel coat.

I don't know why but there are times when I don't like how the PVA is going down and I have removed it all and have redone the section. They say not to do it but I have added water to the PVA so it will flow better and I get the finish that I want.
First layer of glass is the most critical. You don't want any air bubbles in it. After that your allowed just a little:D Thats why its best some times to do large areas in sections, so you have time to get the air bubbles out.
As you get better at it the glassing will be easier and go faster.

Well Congratulations you've past fiber glassing 101 . you got the mold off without destroying it and the buck.*laugh*
At least you'll be able to sleep tonight*laugh*
 
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