AC Install Recap

[Brett Proctor]

My AC/Heater install is just about finished. All thats left is to run the freon lines and the heater lines.
Everything works better than anticipated.

First off don't let anyone tell you that it cann't be done because it can. The level of difficulty will depend on the unit you choose to use. I stoped looking for units when I found the Durango unit and focused on installing that. This unit can be made even more compact than what I used, how ever you will be cutting off the mode door section which controls the path the air takes after it leaves the evaporator/heater section. Which you can do without, the only draw back is the air from the AC/Heater will all go through the same vent system. If you can live with that then its no biggie.

If your good at fabrication and want only AC you can take a evaporator from a unit and build your own housing and bolt a blower to it. I found some very very small blowers in the center console of SUV's. This would give you an unbelievable compact unit for just AC.

I'm not going to cover the compressor or condensor because the options for these is just about endless.

OK things I found out about this install
The controls. If you are going to use actuator doors in the system there are three ways to control these
1. Cable
2. Vacum
3. Electric

My system had electric and my main problem with that was that the on/off switch for the AC was connected to a processor in the ECU for it to work. I wasn't about to put the ecu for the dodge in the car just so the switch would work so what to do.

I decided to used the stock Subaru AC switch out of a 98 legacy. This required no processor for it to work and the wiring for the AC/Heater that I'm using is out of the Subaru so it worked out just fine.

Functions for the Mode doors were all in the control panel and needed no help from anything else to work.

So lesson here was, as simple as a switch may come back and bite you. I lucked out that it was a simple fix.

I don't know if you can mix and match control panels with systems that use electric actuators, however I don't see why you couldn't if you used the vacum operated actuators.
I found some nice compact control panels that would look good in the car but I wasn't going to take the chance that it would work with the Dodge actuators so I stuck with the Dodge control panel.
I did have to make my own bezel for the controls but that was no biggie. This will go into the side opening on the left side of the driver


I'm going to stop here and continue this later

Brett

 

[Brett Proctor]

Up Date

Old system is out new system in.
Mercedes unit. AC/Heater

Control panel

 

[Nic]

That thing is MONSTER. I think you'll be able to store perishable goods in the car.

 

[ratrog64]

You have mastered the art pick and pull of AC/Heat units.

 

[Brett Proctor]

That thing is MONSTER. I think you'll be able to store perishable goods in the car.

This has been the second most compact unit that I have found. The other is also from Mercedes but from earlier years(90's)

To make these even more compact you could remove the Heater section and retain just the AC part(plastic welding would be involved)

I still haven't decided how the lines are going to be routed.

 

[Brett Proctor]

You have mastered the art pick and pull of AC/Heat units.

I've just spent to many hours in the yards here. The staff knows me very well.

 

[Brett Proctor]

Had some time to test the heater to see if it even worked.

Outside temperature.

Controls are set to high

Engine temp at the time the readings are taken.

Vent output temperature.

 

[farfegnubbin]

Fantastic!

For the record, at this point in the journey I think I’m more impressed by a Sterling with a functional HVAC system than any flavor of engine modification.

 

[Brett Proctor]

Started to install the freon lines to the system. Low pressure side first since its the easiest. Straight shot from the evaporator to the compressor.

I've watched a few recharging videos and none of them mention the install of the PAG oil needed to lubricate the system.

In a system that is already charged and your just adding freon to top off the system adding the PAG oil is not needed but in a system that you are charging from being empty you need to add this oil.
There are different weights also just like regular motor oils, so depending on the type of compressor thats being used you need to get the right weight PAG oil and put the right amount in.

 

[Brett Proctor]

Ordered a new condenser (2000 Honda Civic) for the system. I have one that I pulled out of the pick a part yard that I'm using for the mock up of the system.
Waiting on parts and materials right now so I can finish building the system.

Had the hardest time finding aluminum tubing. When I found it at a decent price the shipping was ridicules.

 

[Brett Proctor]

installation is going slower than expected.
found out that nobody carries metric size hose. Why they don't is a mystery to me.

So I have to convert the metric size fittings that are in the system over, but thats not as easy as it sounds. Nobody (at least from what I found) makes weld on barbs that transition metric over to the decimal system thats here. So I had to make my own by taking a barb fitting and swage the end to fit over to the metric fitting then weld that on.

The measurement system that is used for AC is confusing also.

 

[Brett Proctor]

This is my first ever time that I've installed an AC system and here's some things I've learned so far.

When I started this and went through the pick a part yards looking for ideas to build this system I pulled fittings from cars that I thought would be useful.
All the parts I used came from Japanese and/or European cars. Systems in cars from the USA were to large to be used in the sterling.
Most of the cars were in the late 1990's to early 2000's range. and I went with what they were using.

OK flash forward to today
There are 2 different types of hoses that are used for these systems. The style of hose (reduced barrier) that was used back then I've been told is being phased out.
Reduced barrier hose has a thinner wall surface and is easier to bend than regular barrier hose. But insulation is not as good as regular barrier hose, which is the reason its being phased out ( I think)

You can still get reduced barrier hose but getting the hose and the fittings for it are getting a little harder.
I found 2 sites that have a decent supply of parts for both types of hoses.
As mentioned its impossible to get hose in metric size here and the metric fittings that I pulled from the pick a part yards won't work on the hose thats sold here.

Try to have a game plan to how the system will be built. The cost of these parts adds up fast.

I wasn't sure how it was all going to go together and bought an assortment of fittings.
I now have a game plan and the final fittings should be here by the end of this week.

 

[sector]

Just out of curiosity, any reason other then fun of building your own system, that you've chosen this rout over purchasing a compact Vintage Air system that is used in so many hot rod and kit cars?
Also if going with OEM approach why not use HVAC from the same car you pulled a dashboard from, so that it can be installed in the original location with all controls and plumbing intact?

 

[Brett Proctor]

I believe the unit I have is smaller than the Vintage air unit. I'll pull some measurements off of it so you can compare the two.

The OEM HVAC unit is way to big and bulky to fit in the sterling. The OEM car has a lot more floor to dash clearance than the sterling. Not to mention the size of the controls are larger than what I have now.

Since in the OEM configuration all the hoses are orientated to go to the front of the car. I would have to make a bunch of "U" bend to route the hoses to the back of the car

The Vintage Air condenser (their smallest) is to large to fit in the space thats available.

The OEM unit I have was also mounted to the center hump of the chassis so it was a no brainer mounting it. It already had mounting brackets that could easily be modified to mount to the VW's hump.
The orientation of the vent location on the Vintage Air also would be a problem I think. All vents are in the top of the unit, including the heater vents. The unit I have, the heater vents are in the bottom where they should be.

 

[sector]

Thank you for such detailed explanation. I new there was a good reason for designing your own system.

 

[Brett Proctor]

Here are the measurements of the unit that I'm using.
cut me some slack with the numbers. The unit is installed and measurements were done with a tape measure so there not very precise.

7 inches wide

15 inches long

8 inches high

Vintage air
7.3 inches wide

19 inches long

9 inches high

Early style Mercedes
6.5 inches wide

18 inches long

7 inches high

I never bothered trying to get the early style unit to work

 

[Brett Proctor]

I've mention this before but I'll repeat it.

The Mercedes units ( Both)

The left and right side of the heater output vents work independent of each other.
Mercedes use what they call a duovalve and that controls how much heat goes to each side.

 

[Brett Proctor]

Decided to run the AC lines down the sides of the pan.
Right now I'm waiting on an order of weld on fittings that seem to be hung up in Florida for some reason.

 

[Brett Proctor]

Made a little progress
Got the Line from the drier to the evaporator made.

 

[Brett Proctor]

Got last of the lines made up.
Compressor to condenser. This is the last phase of the install.
Still need to replace a few temporary mounts and install the permanent ones and replace the condenser with the new one. then charge the system and see if it works.
Line from compressor to condenser was made in 3 sections.