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A neat alternative thought to heat exchangers Electric heat!

letterman7

Honorary Admin
Ok... this should probably go into my build journal, but I'll put it here instead since it's a heat related post. I'll let some of the "secrets" out as I got to a stopping point today waiting for the rest of my goodies to arrive.

As some of you know, this car has/had air conditioning installed by the factory. It wasn't good to begin with (old compressor, poor condenser location), and after years of sitting it just wasn't to be. So, plans went forth to yank it out and replace everything. In researching what I wanted to replace it with, it became very apparent that most aftermarket a/c units had a heat option, using the coolant from the engine just like a heater core (well... I guess it is a heater core anyway). That let me to thinking about how I could harness something from the engine to heat coolant.... the obvious was the exhaust system. Instead of hot air being blown in to the cabin, I'd have hot coolant circulating into the core, giving me some measure of control. Now.. how to do that. My first thought was a liquid intercooler - route the exhaust gases though the box and let the coolant draw the heat. But those are usually bulky and not inexpensive. And, where the hell would I put it and still route the exhaust?
Some further investigating and researching on eBay of all places revealed these little beauties:
EGR2_zps191bef91.jpg

Those are EGR coolers from a late '90's to early '00 VW diesel Jetta/Beetle. EGR coolers are actually pretty common as I found out for diesels - the Ford and GM ones are huge. These are rather petite - about a foot long and 2 inches across.
You'll notice one end has a flange and one has a pretty severe bend:
EGR3_zps8959b294.jpg

Knowing that the bend would be a hell of a restriction for the exhaust gases (these bolted to an extension on the exhaust manifold of the native VW, and were fed coolant through various hoses to the block), I opted to cut it off and open up the end as much as I dared without cutting into the water jacket:
EGR4_zps18165832.jpg

It ain't a pretty cut, but it opened up the tunnel well enough. The other end with the flange I'm leaving for the moment. I'll likely need to cut that off as well, but for the moment I enlarged the opening. Once I get the engine mounted and figure out how much room I have for mufflers I can make that determination.

So.. really, that's the "big" surprise. The coolant hoses will be routed from the EGR coolers to a holding/recycling tank, down through the a/c heater core, to a pump, out to a heater bypass valve which will feed another heater core that's hung in the open to act as a radiator and back again:
Sterlingheaterrouting_zpsba10e3d6.jpg


Installed on the engine, they don't look too bad. Don't be too harsh on my welding - the header collectors were all hand fabricated so they're a little ugly. The actual downpipes are from a 912E Porsche, the rest of the pipe is off-the-shelf J tubes from CIP1.
EGR5_zps36a5d3f1.jpg

EGR6_zpsfeb73f43.jpg

EGR7_zps334363c1.jpg


And yes, I know the garage is a mess. It's 20° outside and I'm not about to clean it out!

Hopefully this system will work as intended. I might even wrap the header and EGR pipe with some header wrap to keep the heat contained, but I'll cross that road when the car is back together and running. If it does work, this system would be easy enough to make work on a T1 engine using the J pipes off the back exhaust ports as well. It'll take a little welding, but with a little ingenuity I think it can be done!

I guess I should have added that yes, it works on the same principle as Yaughn's link to the oil cooler (which takes up less space, however) using the engine coolant to cool the oil. Here, it's just cooling exhaust... sort of *laugh*
 
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vpogv

Active member
Digging the concept and excited to see the pieces and components that you end up choosing for your system. The one thing that jumps out to me is that this isn't a cheap solution - ac evap/heater + small radiator + 2x egr coolers + hose and piping.

Thinking out loud, why is the added reservoir or tank necessary when you have an overflow? This could be simpler by using this in the same way one would use the oil cooler for heat. Use the egr coolers to heat up the coolant and pump it through the radiator (with overflow attached) and blow the air through the small radiator core to the cabin.

Very anxious to see updates Letterman.
 

letterman7

Honorary Admin
Pog, really, except for the a/c system I don't have that much into it. Granted, I haven't bought all the hoses to connect everything up yet, but still..
The EGR coolers were $50 each on eBay, the external heater core was $25, the bypass switch (which, if you are only running the heater core as a heat source, wouldn't need) was the most expensive piece at $80. The overflow tank was $35. The miscellaneous exhaust pipes and fittings I had mostly sitting around the garage save for a few flanges. Much of that can be scavenged at local VW show swap meets for pennies.

I'm using the overflow tank as the holding tank, basically recirculating the coolant back into it and drawing it back out. Because the external heater core doesn't have a radiator cap (it is a heater core, not a radiator), I need some way to a) fill the system and b) have expansion room. The external heater core is more for the summer so that the coolant system doesn't overheat and I can bypass the main core to keep the heat out of the cabin. What's nice is the bypass valve is also electrically activated and infinitely variable so I can use it for the cooler mornings if I'm heading to a show or something.
 

ydeardorff

New member
Very nice on the dual heat exchanger! well thought out!

I was thinking though, what about carbon build up inside the core? Is there a way to clean it out, or perform maintenance on it?
 

letterman7

Honorary Admin
Yes! I thought of that. While there shouldn't be too much issue with carbon build if I tune the carbs correctly, both ends will have (one does already) a bolted flange. That way if I see an issue with backpressure or loss of heat (or excess of) I can easily remove either exchanger and clean it out.
 

ydeardorff

New member
Another thought would be to use it also as an air intake preheater. Could really add up on those MPG in colder mornings.
 

letterman7

Honorary Admin
Hmm.. you got me there. Don't know what that means. Traditional Beetle manifolds have the pre-heat tube under the carburetor to keep it from icing up; this T4 manifold is fairly close to the head. I've read on the 914 forums that these particular manifolds and Webers are prone to fuel percolation as the heads heat up. I've got the phenolic spacer under the manifold, so I hope that won't be an issue in the summer. What would pre-heating the incoming air do for mileage?
 

ydeardorff

New member
In the winter months the air is more dense, and wet. More energy is required to make combustion occur as the engines setup has to combat these factors to get the gasoline to burn.

So running your car on 87 octane in the winter is better due to its higher flammability rating.
And running 92 in the summer is better as it requires more energy to ignite than 87.

Anyway, warmer air entering the engine help the air fuel mixture ignite more easily. Increasing the air / fuel ratio is the compensation factor on cold days for both F.I. and carbuerated cars. This will lead to a longer choke time till the engine warms up. Preheating the intake air also helps keep the gasoline vapor in a gaseous state. Otherwise the cold air, under the vacuum of the intake it will try to condense back into droplets which are harder to burn, and why cars really seem to stink more in winter months, than in summer months.
 
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