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  1. STERLING CCC #309

    Fog/reverse light. Some vents of some sort would help alleviate the heavy look in the back.
  2. A few questions about my chassis

    You can take it pretty close to the tunnel. Leave a little bit as farfegnubbin mentioned just for ease of putting a new pan back in. I don't have photos, but at the back, you can remove all the way to the curved area. Easy tech tip if you're good at welding and have access to a metal bender...
  3. Sterling CAD Model Design and Update thread.

    Not bad so far! I've got Blender... never learned how to use it. It's not the most user friendly interface...
  4. A few questions about my chassis

    Those parts are available new from the company. Unfortunately I don't have a "stock" car here to measure, but I'm sure someone will pipe up if they have a parts car laying around.
  5. A few questions about my chassis

    Oof... In cars this old. stuff starts to stick. Just pull the fiberglass out (and associated rodent nests... you know they're there). The nuts and bolts look pretty well rusted up, which is very common. If you can reach all the nuts with a cut-off wheel or even a die grinder (hold onto both of...
  6. Engine not idling

    Step up the idle not with the mixture screws but by the actual stop on the throttle arm. This contradicts what the step by step says, but you have to get it idling at some point. The fine tune adjustments can come later. I'm not sure that I've ever encountered a VW that didn't run a little rich...
  7. Pog's Sterling (CCC293)

    Sort of. When the engine is warming up they also serve for the overall gas being served during the range of rpm. Will it stay running, even if running rich? In that video it seemed like it was struggling a little. Funny thing about VW engines.. they want to be run at speed, not just idling. I'm...
  8. Pog's Sterling (CCC293)

    Electric choke or manual? Even slightly closed, choke butterflies will pull more fuel in than necessary to idle. A choke is only meant to enrichen the initial starting sequence by getting as much fuel to the cylinders as possible in the shortest amount of time. The butterfly should be *vertical*...
  9. Pog's Sterling (CCC293)

    :) The "volume" screw should have helped with the enrichment. It's definitely a dance to get it right. Following the steps in the procedure link provided, base-line everything and try again. If it's still running really rich, we'll try something else. Does it have a choke on it?
  10. Pog's Sterling (CCC293)

    http://www.vw-resource.com/34pict3.html Just slapping a carb on there without tuning it isn't going to work. 34PICT came with many Beetle engine without fuel pressure regulators, so I doubt it's high pressure related. Take your time and set the carburetor up with the right adjustments. Believe...
  11. Looking for lost Info

    Mike McBride that owned Solid Sterling in the '90's lived in that area. Is that who you're thinking of? He didn't own the company until then though, but maybe he did some custom stuff earlier. There was also a company in the mid to late '80's in that area that was called 'Redhead Roadsters' that...
  12. A few questions about my chassis

    Hydraulics are the most common. Early cars came with manual lifts with huge garage door springs doing the hard work. Some guys have put in linear actuators, but they can be painfully slow.
  13. A few questions about my chassis

    Definitely refrigerant lines and a condenser unit for A/C. What's that yellow bottle-jack thing? Pneumatic rams: yes, with disastrous results. It's extremely difficult to modulate pneumatics for a smooth rise and fall. In the one owner's case, it twisted the canopy and snapped the windshield.
  14. A few questions about my chassis

    Photos would help. There is an aftermarket A/C system that uses the evaporator mounted to the floor pan, so it's entirely possible at one time the car had A/C. Take your time splitting the fiberglass where it's bonded - there should be bolts holding everything together internally.. and the side...
  15. A few questions about my chassis

    Well, the advantages of removing the body are obvious - you can renew everything on it since it'll be easily accessible. I just didn't know what your immediate plans were. But certainly - if your plans are to inspect and upgrade the frame, then by all means remove the body. Those perimeter bolts...
  16. A few questions about my chassis

    Yep, that's an attempt at lowering the seats. Only rubber sealant? Geez... they had great hopes in that it would hold... but it looks like it did! The 'carriage bolts' - no need to mess with those. They go through the perimeter frame and hold the body to the chassis. If you cut into or remove...
  17. Where is the ID for the body located?

    I used to keep a list but that was years ago. I have photos of most that had come up for sale over the years with notes of the serial numbers; I don't think I have 39 in my file, That said, GP39 was an early body produced by the Midwest plant around 1976 - more specifically, it was produced by...
  18. Where is the ID for the body located?

    Not really. There might be some styling cues to give a general timeline, like the type of dashboard and the tail light panel, but they're all the same otherwise.
  19. Where is the ID for the body located?

    Not all cars were stamped with a serial number. There should be a rectangular shaped stamped area in the gelcoat right on the top of the driver's sill at the low point. Pretty hard to miss. But, that said, many cars suffered the indignation of having that area sanded smooth during a paint...
  20. Pog's Sterling (CCC293)

    Timing won't advance with centrifugal or vacuum until about 2500rpm. At idle advance does nothing. You can manually advance or retard the idle by rotating the distributor in it's mount, and sometimes that's the only way to get it to run. But it should always be set (the distributor that is) to...
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